SAAC Forum

I'm not sure how all the vacuum stuff is mounted but if by doing so and the switch does not fall apart it might be worth the effort. (and possibly look more OEM )

  Try this.  Jumper the positive battery lead to the horn contact on the horn itself.  Then thread in, or thread out, the "tuning" screw.  It has the strange head on it.  Tap the horn once and a while, while doing this.  Often enough they start to make that familiar racket.

  I've seen that little threaded gizmo in a McMaster-Carr hardware catalog.

  Kind of cool.  Seen membership longevity pins like that.

  Bob, in the "old forum" you posted a template for that.  Could you post it here on the new forum?

  Its the "Cougar" headlight switch that was built for the four headlight system.

  Couldn't help but notice this: Same dealer delivered on the same day as mine (#0036), right door has an outside rear veiw mirror, same as mine.  Bet there is a story there.

  My opinion:  The crutial areas are above and below the curved sections of the four stud mounts.  Dum-dum is good, but you can also use that spray foam with a light-easy touch on the trigger.
  Too bad the old forum is gone.  There was extensive photos about this in it.

  Cool as  I thougt it would be.  Thanks.

  I'd like to see the #17 Cougar's tail.  Looking to see how the tail spoiler looks

Chicago suburbs this Saturday.  Bad habit not reading it on line as it comes. But, so enjoyable when all four quarters gets here.
Bonus: Nick Guisto's 67 350 #1690

My family has been told. White casket with blue G T 350 stripes around the bottom.

  The cover of March 1967 Sports Car Graphic shows #0100 (I think) in it's body color and center rings in black out.  Back then, they needed 4 to 5 months to get the artcle out, so, November-ish car or so.

  DO NOT use laquer thinner to clean up the strip caulk mess.  I have used pre-wax cleaner without paint damage.

  I meantioned the "no copper" because - over time (short time) the copper cracks and then leaks all over.