SAAC Forum

I was on the judging team that judged Jim Boyd's car.  It was very well done, with original blue dots, assembly line battery and a lot of very rare parts.  I don't recall everything we deducted for, believe most of it was workmanship/condition type of things.  Not really my place to say exactly even if I remembered.  Best way to learn is by observing original cars and parts.  Then go to shows, look at more original cars, then restored cars, then get involved in the judging to learn the differences.

Quote from: prototypefan on December 15, 2018, 09:19:52 AM
The most ingenious repair I've seen as I live in a rust belt and most cars here have corrosion in that area was:
sandblasting out the corrosion being sure to get out the black corrosion ensuring it doesn't come back, tacking in a piece of metal in the center of the hole where two layers of metal once was and filling the area with bondo.......then as the bondo was setting.....take and HB pencil and press the eraser into the bondo that is still setting up which leaves a depression the same size as an original spot weld

Another option is to repair the metal, leaving both sides smooth and use an actual spot welder to replicate the original welds.

Not even sure where to start with that one.  Guess it would fall into the 'nice driver' category.

I recently pointed out to a seller on ebay that the battery topper they are selling with yellow caps and a decal to mimic the early 65-67 battery was not correct for the size of the topper (24F).  The auction stated that it was 'correct' for 65-66 Mustang and GT350.  Their response was to contact the company that makes the reproduction.

It's a kinda neat Day2-ish car, but looks like some of the mods required hole(s) to be drilled... fenders/quarters/hood.  Probably reversible, but with original paint, then becomes an issue of being 'stuck' with the mods or doing a full restoration.  Entry point would have to be around $25-30k to make restoration an option.

Quite optimistic, guess they can always come down on the price.  Can't recall ever seeing a K code Mustang advertised over $100k?

If we say his real name, liable to get lawsuit letters in the mail.  The guy is crazy, have had the (un)pleasure of speaking with him in the past.

Should be able to buy regular black vinyl (sierra grain), from any auto upholstery shop.

Quote from: GT350Lad on December 08, 2018, 03:29:30 AM
Are you serious? Are carryovers up that high?

Quite optimistic.  I'd think it would have to be a Div 1/Premiere level car to get into that range.

I'd think a color change to anything other than white on a 65 Shelby (except maybe some original race cars), would hurt the value.

Other years, it depends, like has been mentioned.  Any concours level car with a color change should be a hit on value though.  If anyone would want to show it, almost impossible to recover the points deduction to earn a Gold award.  I don't think SAAC even allows known color change cars in concours anymore.

Dropped $10k I believe... was at $550k (#1 concours) for a year or 2 before.

Quote from: BGlover67 on December 05, 2018, 03:09:57 PM

Quote from: 557 on December 05, 2018, 02:52:37 PM
$215k (to the man with a martini in each hand)

You mean Canadian dollars, correct?

They are basically 65 Shelby's with 66 trim parts/exhaust... I wouldn't be surprised if it goes over $200k USD.

Hank Doby owns the domain name... I sent him an e-mail.

I never had anything to do with the hi-po forum.  Jeff and I run concoursmustang.com

As far as I can tell, the hi-po forum is dead.

It would not be normal for a 1 65 stamped radiator to have a soldered tag on the side like that.  It should have a stamped top tank with C4ZE and the correct suffix per application.  The '1 65' looks like it might have originally been a '11 65', that someone removed a '1' from... note the offset of the date below 'W - MO'