SAAC Forum

65 Mustang T-10, Ford shifter box, Ford linkage (incl levers), rear rubber mount with bolts, original driveshaft, driver handle and early shift ball (chrome so so). Like most T-10s it pops out of 2nd on decel. Otherwise it worked well with no bearing noises.
All case numbers correct for a 65 Mustang.

See pics and details here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Krxpp538pdphq3fj7

$995 plus shipping. I will NOT separate.

PM here.

Wanted - 4756 metering plate/block for a 3259-1 715 CFM Holley (66 and 67).
Must be in excellent condition.
Plating is immaterial.

I have a 3903 in excellent shape (early 3259 Shelby and 427) if you want to do a trade + cash.
I'm not selling the 3903 until I  have a 4756.

Pm or email. Click my avatar for email.

Bill

Looking for a nice  SMS-13A538-A, Left (driver) taillight bezel with studs.
Only original part with part number on back.

Click on my name to view email or pm here.

Will be fixing mine.

Complete radiator with side straps, horizontal rod and auto bottom.
As stated, 11 66 W MO and Ford stamping on top tank. Needs a core.

Great starter for an early GT350.

$300 plus ship (around 50). Sold.

I shouldn't post these using my phone. Wrong for sale section!

I'm looking for the correct yellow crimp connector style originally used at the solenoid and at the ammeter connector stud. There appear to be many styles of the plastic covering the connector in today's market and I want to make sure I get the right style.

I believe the original connector has a bell shape at the wire entry. It also appears to have a bit of a flare at wire entry too. See pic.

For extra credit, is this style of connector tool correct that appears to poke hard into the insulator?

I need one more NOS C7OZ 3049-A Ford upper ball joint.
I don't need the boot or other pieces if you robbed those.

Looking for a reasonable price. I threw my restored, bare arms in the parts rack and forgot about them. Time to finish all these projects left hanging due to parts needs.
FOUND!

As described in title. Has a nice top and bottom (auto) tank. Appears to have correct side straps. Core is trash.
$500 plus the ride.
SOLD

Possible NOS 67 GT350 parts trades although my need list is getting really small.

PM here or at bossbill [the at sign] comcast [add the dot net]

Looking for an original center of dash plastic panel  for 1967 deluxe interior. Used is preferred.
It has the slots in it for the brushed aluminum.

I'm looking for one with no damage and the side ears intact.

Chrome plate not an issue as I will have it replated. I don't need the brushed aluminum.

A friend of mine sent me this pic (why not more?) on this C5AE block with screw-in soft plugs and possible head studs. Was this done in the 60s?

The HiPo head has had a rocker arm shaft added. Can't say I've seen this done as it looks very FE style.

Any racers want to chime in?

My car has a flat taillight panel with the deep taillight boxes. The lens bezels have studs.

I was trying to refinish my bezels (thanks for the tips, Bob G.) and had my original Ford lenses nearby so I test fit them together.
I was surprised that the bezels have a built-in lip so that the lenses are canted. A lot. The car is way up in the air with another car under it so test fitting is difficult.

I gather the small reveal is up. Right?

A follow up on just the heater hose. The thread follow up is from the link by 68krrrr and from which I've removed non-applicable comments for this thread.

I'm always confused by the term mid-year as it seems to move a bit depending on the topic. Is mid-year around the time of the steering column brake line re-route? This coincides closely with the washer bag to plastic molded container change.

Would a Ford build date of late February (asking for another) or early March car (mine) work as the changeover date from white to red? Or am I in squishy territory?

Quote from: Bob Gaines on March 28, 2020, 10:15:18 PM

Quote from: 68krrrr on March 28, 2020, 09:51:35 PM
[Remove non-applicable comments]

1.I got the red stripped heater hoses even though Marti Works called me & said those aren't for 67's but i saw a thread where you guys said get the red & not the white ones correct.
[Remove non-applicable comments]

Red stripe hose are fine for a mid production 67 Shelby as long as they are solid stripe . 68 started to have a date code alternating with the stripe.

I was looking to see if I had all the correct finishes on the various headlight parts. So I pulled out the various buckets and adjusters [car 01375].

From teardown pics it appears the bucket with the 90 deg. tang is the outside [fender] bucket. Note:  I have inboards.
So I have two buckets with the full 90 deg tang and two with that section cut off.

The Assembly manual shows the tangless buckets used inboard.
Do I have that right?

I'm having trouble finding the details of the throttle rod and spring on 67 GT350s.

What few pictures exist this close in suggest that we are using a stock 289 throttle rod (dull zinc) and the stock 289 4V spring and bracket.

A pic of the MPC illustration of those parts is included.
With full accreditation to Jeff Speegle and Concoursmustang.com I've blown up the only picture I've found of this area.

I found 3 pair of the rectangular/squarish Hi-Po rod bolts. Now I need the rest.
So, WTB 5 pair or 10 individual rod bolts.

What style of brake duct tubing was originally used? How was it attached at either end by SA? I'm seeing pop rivets and what looks like hot glue.

My guess would be race car brake duct tubing with wire. But since they were in an airport SCAT or CAT tubing comes to mind (which looks about the same).

A few (4 or 5) of the cast in guides in my 289K heads have worn out and the slots are now oblong (sideways). The heads need to be gone through anyway.

From a 'keep this engine as stock as possible' point of view do I ask the machine shop to drill out just the pairs of pushrod guides on one cylinder (pair) and just run guide plates on that cylinder only?  Do them all? Or is there a fix of which I'm not aware (drill out and press in a newly machined guide).

I'm leaning toward a guide plate conversion.

I've had this in the extra parts cabinet for over 25 years:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EAKWF4GYjKJoBwkw6
Looking to trade it for an equal quality Boss 302 cooler.
Yes, I'm a woss and I'm converting the Boss to power steering.
Details:
Pictured in the link is a 1969-1970 428 Cobra Jet/SCJ Mustang & Shelby and Boss 429 power steering cooler. Not a repop, but original and lightly used. Paint removed to show the number.
More pics on request.

Looking to trade the C8 for a D0ZA-3D746-A  70 Boss 302 power steering cooler. Same shape as my C8. I don't really want a repop B2 cooler.

PM here or Bossbill [the at sign] comcast [add the dot net bit] and put Power Steering in the subject line.

My car car appears to have had an awful nose/hood fit from the get go.

First pic is one from about 30 years ago after it had a no-jamb scratch and squirt paint job. Sorry, best shot I have.

Here is the fit today. I remember pulling out a small amount of weird blue filler under the original coat of paint. But it wasn't enough to fill this gap!

How much can I fill in the nose piece so it still looks like an original Shelby but has some semblance of fit? Almost all of the pictures of other cars I have are with the hood up!

[Yeah, I accidentally filled the 4th rivet hole].

In this thread:
http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=7119.msg60208#msg60208
a user showed a 67/8 P/S steering pump bracket.
Later in that post Bob Gaines noted that "Was used on BB and SB. The printing style indicates it mates up to the Ford Thompson teal pump."

I wondered what that meant, so I dug further.

My Shelby has a Ford pump, a date correct tag and a large letter C7AA-3A732-B aluminum bracket with rectangular outline.

I found another aluminum bracket with almost the same size letters, but without rectangular outline.

I then went through my pump collection and finally found a TRW pump with bracket and noted that the lettering is very different. The tag on the pump was stamped " 4 W 6 7".

You learn something new every day. See pics in order of the discussion.

I've had numerous people, including the paint store, tell me they can mix 67 Ford color code "I" -- Lime Gold.
However, when I had them mix a quart it appears they are using a mix conversion. In other words, they are taking each component of the original paint components and converting each one to a modern color/flake equivalent and then mixing them all up to get the new color.
That simply doesn't work and the mix I got was too dark (PPG 43576). This particular mix was not a Base/Clear but an acrylic enamel to keep things simple.

Does anyone have a modern Base Coat/Clear Coat mix they've actually sprayed or had someone spray that is really accurate?

I'd really love an additive mix (so many grams of this, add another so many grams of this, etc). My painter has a mix bank, and I'd like to get a bit closer to the "real color" so we don't have to do so many spray-outs.

If you don't feel like sharing publicly, please PM me.