SAAC Forum

My interest in this topic started here:
http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=4627.0

From a concours point of view the reproduction emblems, to my eye now that I've seen the difference, are different enough to warrant some attention come judging time.

Are these "different enough compared to the real McCoy" to merit a 'Deduction' or 'Attention' mark during judging?

Was there an introduction date for the S7MS intake?
Or did the S2MS AND S7MS intakes get intermixed in the later stages of production?

The 67 GT350s have an alternator wiring harness (C7ZB-14305-E) specific to 289s with a tach.

There is a different part number for 390s, so let's stick with GT350s for now.

My alternator harness has been with the car for over 30 years and has a stator wire repair, which leads me to believe it may be original rather than replaced. The boots are Ford style (although the colors are degraded)  and no repairs are done anywhere else. I believe the correct boot colors to be FLD (white), STA (black) and BAT (red). Due to age these morph into all kinds of weird colors.

However, the issue I have is with the battery connector end that SA connects to the standalone terminal stud near the solenoid for the ammeter.

All of the reproductions have a square plastic end molded around the large eyelet. Two of the standard Mustang non-tach alternator harnesses I have are also square.
My "original" harness has a rounded plastic molded end (see pic -- right).

Either my harness is incorrect or there may be more than one vendor supplying these.

I'm about to have mine reproduced with what I think is its correct round plastic end  but would appreciate some input.

A gentleman contacted me after seeing a post I made on the FF Forum concerning Col. Pearson's connection to my 67 Shelby GT350 'tow truck'. The gentleman included a vintage pic of CSX3343.

If anyone has contact information for Col. Loren Pearson of Road Atlanta fame, please PM me. Both the person who sent me the picture and I would like to contact him. Also, if you want the contact information of the gentleman who contacted me with this pic, send me a PM and I'll hook you up.

Meanwhile, here is a picture of CSX3343. It's the only pic I have and resolution is the best available.

I'm pulling my question about Concours GT350 axle markings out of the "SPEC" thread and into its own thread here.

Although I asked for specifics on all paint markings, maybe it's better to just concentrate of a few specific areas of the rear axle. But if you have any pics of your original axle housing, you can post them here or email them to me if you like.

Some of general areas relating to Concours restoration  were dealt with in the Perkins article here:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/drivetrain/1703-detailing-and-restoring-the-mustang-9-inch-rear-axle/

I understand that the axle assembly in question is from a later car, but some of his restoration tips may well apply to the 67 cars. I would not copy them indiscriminately.

I'll start with the paper tag.
Can anyone vouch for the existence of a Sterling paper tag on the housing?

Before I painted the dash I wanted to verify I had all the correct pieces to mount the gauge pod. I have the Shelby Assy Manual, but sizes/types of fasteners are not called out.

The attachment bracket was missing so I sourced a correct used Shelby mount, complete with krinkle paint. It was twice as much as the repop, but I like correct stuff.

The bolt to attach the mount to the dash was gone, but it appears from the Shelby Assembly Manual that this is a hex head lag screw with built-in washer (FF149   14-14X1/2HH,REC,FLNG 1/2,3/8HEX,TPG if you use Jim's spreadsheet). About the same type as used to mount a starter solenoid.
Is this correct?

Second, the 10-24 screws in the pod were too long and appear incorrect. I'm guessing a 10-24 cad-plated slotted round head, about 0.375 long.
Correct?

And lastly, does the fascia plate dig right into the painted dash? That's makes no sense.
Am I missing a piece of rubber or something? There is a line on the mount where something about 3/4 wide sat right in back of the fascia plate on the mount itself. To clear the curve on the dash something like a piece of dense rubber needs to go here that's about 1/4" thick.
See pic.

In prepping the interior for correct overspray patterns (black charcoal metallic from dash, primer and paint overspray) I found the rollcage to B-Piller bolts to have an unusual head color. They are similar to lap seat belt bolts, but with a 13/16 hex head and an "N" in the head's middle. I believe these are 382873-s100.
This seat belt anchor style bolt is gold dichromate, then a shiny cad or similar is found on just the head, then the head is again covered in a dull zinc (appearance).
The dull zinc appearance is definitely a coating, but will scratch with an awl.

What exactly is this coating?

 

Does anyone sell small quantities of the original Shelby taillight wiring butt connectors?
These connectors are semi-clear with blue stripes running lengthwise on both sides. See pic.

I'd like to restore my taillight wiring to original as it uses these.

These are very difficult to buy other than in the 50 pack for well over $100!

I was looking for info on the Lucas Fog Lights (68-up Shelby/CS) and found very little.

Looking for info on how to identify the correct original case, lens, wire and support.

On the 67 hubcap cars, is the wheel color semi-gloss black or something a bit shinier?

Of the many 67/68 T-bird (nee, 67 Shelby) hubcaps I've collected, 4 hubcaps are nice enough to consider for concours.
There are three colors on these hubcaps and I need to know what is a color match that you have used or seen.

Outer area in trough with valve stem -- appears to be flat black.
Major portion of hubcap including area under spokes -- looks like flat Mustang argent.
Area in the 'five cooling vent' area -- appears to be a flat silver-white argent.
As noted, all colors appear to be flat.

You can usually tell what part of the car I'm restoring by my posts ...

I'm fairly certain the caps have been off of this car, so I'm having issues with the correct concours parts for re-assembly.

I have the 67 Shelby Master Assy Manual but some of the information is sparse.
Page 31 lists the components to assemble the rear end caps, but there are many blanks and issues.

The '1.B' bolts are listed as 378190-S2 (not found in any hardware list), which may actually be 378196-S2. I have lots of the later.
There is a "Seal, Felt" listed which is a 380002-S (washer with plastic washer), which AMK simply lists as a washer.
And then the three screws which may be '1.D' and listed as 376362-s #6x1/2 screw, but that seems odd given where they go.

What do you guys have?

I've now come across two HiPo engines in Shelbys that have C7ZE-A heads. I lead a sheltered life.

Mannel's H6 section makes the inference (maybe it's just me) that these heads were made specifically for the introduction of T/E in April of 1967.
However, it appears the base head with all of the required features for T/E was made well before that date --  I have now seen two examples of C7ZE-A heads cast in December 1966.

I know it's tough to view the extra casting around the exhaust port that identifies these heads externally, but I'm wondering who has seen or have these C7ZE-A heads and what would be the earliest date of introduction?

I have other questions about these heads, but let's start with introduction date.

My car currently has an early flat Shelby taillight panel which attaches to the rear Ford taillight panel with 4 washers/nuts. I believe it's well known that these are prone to leak. It's probably known that the fiberglass warps and pulls away from the metal surface, too.

Typical early panel already starting to pull away:


When I pulled off the fiberglass panel a number of years ago I found a rather haphazard application of goop in an attempt to seal and stop the warpage.

How are you guys having these re-installed? I've sourced another panel and I'd use panel adhesive along the top edge, but then the panel would never come off if need be. Tips?

For extra credit, I never knew that these early panels required a specific end cap. I have a few spares and it turns out most of them are squared off (in the interior "L") for the later panels.

I see Branda sells 67/68 trunk bumpers.
Can someone share a pic of the metal adjuster?

[on edit] or just describe it completely as picture posting is still an issue?

Are there any details on the jigs originally used by SA to paint fiberglass exterior parts?

I'm trying to get the right 'shading' on parts and would like to know in what the position (laying down, hung by hinge holes, etc) the various exterior parts were painted by SA (if by SA at all!)

After removing all the undercoating on the nose and a hurried previous respray I have no details on any of my pieces.

I believe there was a thread about batteries BTC and seeing a $17,000 B9 battery on ebay lead to restarting this thread.

According to my Marti report I have both the Extra Cooling Package and Heavy Duty Battery option on my mid year 67 GT350.
Per previous discussions, this would net me a group 24 red cap battery and not the group 22 yellow cap battery.

We used to have a chart that described what cars and their options netted what battery the car received.
I'll kick it off with what I remember (uh, oh) and update it after the experts chime in with what they know and I'll correct it.

• Yr...Model......A/C...Smog....55A....Group....Caps.....Caution...Autolite
• 65...GT350.................................22.........Yellow....Yellow....No Color
• 66..GT350..................................22.........Yellow....Yellow....No Color
• 66..GT350.....X...........................24.........Red.......Yellow....No Color
• 67 GT350...................................22.........Yellow....Yellow....No Color
• 67 GT350......X...or..X....or....X.....24..........Red.......Yellow....No Color
• 67 GT500...................................24.........Yellow.....Yellow....No Color
• 67 GT500......X...or..X....or....X.....24..........Red.......Yellow....No Color

A group 24 has been re-popped but it is for 68-up and is available from various vendors.

Here is a pic of that battery:

as sourced from Virginia Mustang.

This reproduction is service replacement version for '65-'67 and repro for '68 -'70 cars.

This should follow with a thread for the correct V/R for this battery/alternator combo.

[The above has been edited to include the updates below]