SAAC Forum

Wanted - 4756 metering plate/block for a 3259-1 715 CFM Holley (66 and 67).
Must be in excellent condition.
Plating is immaterial.

I have a 3903 in excellent shape (early 3259 Shelby and 427) if you want to do a trade + cash.
I'm not selling the 3903 until I  have a 4756.

Pm or email. Click my avatar for email.

Bill

Do you have a sharp picture of the clock dials?

https://cdn.cougparts.com/sc/images/C7AZ-3C511-B.jpg?sessionthemeid=26

Quote from: JD on July 17, 2018, 02:01:44 PM


Yes to the three holes in the lower "tail" for the cars that got 3 screws.

If you are a SAAC member go to the www.SAAC.com website and log in to the members/members only section.

then the "Members Area" and the "Shelby American" it will provide a pull-down list, select the 2013 Fall issue.  There is a 3-part article on the "1967 Shelby's" it can provide some images and some (not all) reference on the many variations that effect the '67's.  (If you were a member back then the article is in print in the 2013 Annual that you may have somewhere.)  The article is about 15 pages.

There is a photo of the end caps with one screw and another with 3 screws.

The site requires you to load Adobe Flash. That was deprecated years ago.

I downloaded the pages  awhile back, but others no longer have access.

Looking for a nice  SMS-13A538-A, Left (driver) taillight bezel with studs.
Only original part with part number on back.

Click on my name to view email or pm here.

Will be fixing mine.

I saw that, but the part I have says the changeover occurred in late 66, CY.
It doesn't help that the date dials aren't dotted very well.

Tim -- I have a no-rib cover dated late in 1966.
See this post for details:
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=21159.msg132976#msg132976

Here is a pic of the date dots and maybe we can come to a consensus on date. I think November.
Do note that the date inside looks a bit like 65, but this IS a no-rib cover and they didn't have anything like this in 65.

This one?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/EGOE1TMG23

The MSDS lists phosphoric acid as the number one ingredient.

Complete radiator with side straps, horizontal rod and auto bottom.
As stated, 11 66 W MO and Ford stamping on top tank. Needs a core.

Great starter for an early GT350.

$300 plus ship (around 50). Sold.

I shouldn't post these using my phone. Wrong for sale section!

The horn, when supplied by 12V,  has a normally closed set of points that energizes an electromagnet to pull a metal diaphragm back. As soon as the diaphragm is pulled back far enough the one end of the points attached to the diaphragm loses contact. This off/on happens very quickly resulting in the diaphragm vibrating.
The screw adjusts when the points make/break.

Looking good, Jon.

I was curious about the PIDG terminal type that NC TRACKRAT mentioned.

A guy on youtube posted a tutorial about the PIDG and the right way way to crimp them. That is pic one and shows how the wire insulation end has a "butterfly", as made by the other side of the crimper. It appears to offer strain relief.

Pic 2 is after I took apart the connector in my first post which shows no strain relief.
However, the inside of the yellow portion of the connector has a copper sleeve! Is this iteration "1967" of a PIDG connector? 

On edit -- and just when I thought I was done I noticed that the wire entry point on the yellow inside portion of the connector has a funnel, which produces the bulge on the end of the connector.

It appears that in this early version of the PIDG the ring connector portion is of standard design but the yellow casing when properly fastened with the correct tool will offer the strain relief.

Who knew?

Thanks for the verification, Bob. I just wanted to make sure someone didn't mess with the rest of this harness.
That was a bad example I showed as it was broken.
The end at the gauges uses the same style of connector and punch style tool indentation. See pic.

SAI did not appear to have the electrical division at Ford approve of their design, what with 3M "snap" connectors used in a wet area on the break into the main harness, no circuit breaker or other means of protection at the alternator connection on the Lincoln stud post and the way the taillight harness was constructed.

Also shown is a cropped pic from the Concours Mustang Forum of an unrestored car showing the connection at the Lincoln isolator. I just now found that one.

Off to try and find that style of connector.

I'm looking for the correct yellow crimp connector style originally used at the solenoid and at the ammeter connector stud. There appear to be many styles of the plastic covering the connector in today's market and I want to make sure I get the right style.

I believe the original connector has a bell shape at the wire entry. It also appears to have a bit of a flare at wire entry too. See pic.

For extra credit, is this style of connector tool correct that appears to poke hard into the insulator?

Quote from: JD on February 16, 2021, 12:56:54 PM

Every thing else is charcoal black metallic, with some flattener to reduce the sheen.

SNIP

The metal portion of the dash, ash tray front surface, glove box front surface

SNIP

I believe the ashtray front cover was painted before the tubular rivets mounted it to the rest of the ashtray. There would be some light overspray on the back as the painter did the sides and mounting ears.

The minimum order number on mine was 50. It was tough getting rid of the 46 I had left over. I think I broke even.

However, I have about a thousand of the 3M headlight snap-loks. Minimum ordering strikes again.
They are a bit more ivory than the originals, but pretty close.

PM me if you want a handful or more!