SAAC Forum

Sorry to be late getting back to this but my car is in remote storage and it took a while to get to it. I've worked on cars for over 60 years and most if not all hubcaps I've encountered could be damaged if hit anywhere other than around the outside rim. 68 hubcaps have a very robust center section with the cast spoke portion. I'm sure a lot of folks know this but here's my method of installing. Align the hole in the cap with the valve stem and start that area into the steel wheel. Holding this position with one hand take a rubber mallet and hit the spoke opposite the valve stem about a third of the way down the spoke. Angle the blow a back toward center. One good measured blow will most likely seat the eagle claws into the wheel all the way around. You can then continue to use the mallet to strike all around the hubcap rim to seat it as much as it will go. I could never get the hubcap rim to seat flush to the wheel. You can use the heal of your hand in place of the mallet but I have such delicate hands that would never work for me. :-)

I also found a flat (wide) prybar works well for removal. Its wide enough not to distort the rim and will dislodge the cap with one motion.

Regards
Ted

Thanks to Bill and all the museum crew for having us back . We must have behaved ... enough ... last year.  A lot of cars I had not seen before. That would be a "YES" for us.

Ted

Glad you have your original hubcaps and are going to put them back on. For years I lusted for a set of 10 spokes but now  hubcaps are back in style. I was hoping someone more knowledgeable than I would respond but I guess you have me for now.

I guess if I noticed the clip-on weights keep the cap from seating flush against the wheel but I never paid it much mind.

Installing the hubcaps can be like a masochistic game of whack-a-mole. I think I came up on a good method the very last time I put one on but I need to test it again before I say for sure. I'll try to test it this week.

Ted

Welcome
Hickory was a fun event.

Look in your box of fasteners for these, "T with dots". The thread below was started by me when looking for replacements for my late June KR.

http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=6238.0

Thanks for posting these.
Some good events to consider

And a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you Brian. And to all our Carolina friends
Ted

Looks like the Melling and Mahle offerings have the dimples. My first thought was to prevent vortexing but I agree, probably to prevent a full collapse of the screen.

Reference UHaul, I second everything Snakebite said in reply 2. However, when I've used UHaul car haulers its been for a trip 3 hours or less. Their trailers are stout but I always asked for relatively new equipment to reduce risk of equipment failure. I've never tried using a UHaul truck as tow vehicle nor have I encountered bad weather or bad roads.

Good luck however you go.
TedS

Seller offered additional photos on request so I asked for photo of SA vin plate and buck tag. Have not received a response.

I've driven Rt 6 and Rt 151 in the Afton area so many times. It had to be a blast to do it in a Shelby. Glad you had fun. Great pictures.

Quote from: Bill Collins on September 04, 2021, 11:05:27 AM
A quick test to determine if the problem is in the solenoid is the next time this happens, whack the solenoid hard with the handle end of a large screwdriver. If it disengages the starter, you have located the source of the trouble.

From the movie "The Longest Day"..
Capt. Colin Maud: [walking up to a stalled vehicle] My old grandmother used to say anything mechanical, give it a good bash.

Since I have a 68 I haven't followed this thread much, if any, but having just read most of the posts I really like the context. Not everything we do on a "routine" basis involves major investment of time and money but can be a big part of our overall enjoyment of the cars. Kind of like the "grocery getter" thread.

Ted

Quote from: CharlesTurner on June 17, 2021, 03:36:54 PM
Don't use the new 3M strip caulk, it is a nasty/sticky butyl-based material.  Look for 'rope caulk', which I believe Eastwood and some other places sell.

I used the 3M product about 4 years ago for tank installation. Charles is correct, it can be a sticky mess. Temperature is important, too warm it's sticky-gooy, but too cold it can be hard to work. If you proceed with using it because you already have it experiment with finding the best temperature. You may not find any temperature you like. If you are not satisfied toss it out and follow Charles' advice.

Ted

I know we focus on the cars but we were at an "air" museum. In reply #48, the blue plane with the blue Cobra seems like something Carroll Shelby would build. It's a Curtiss XF15C-1 "Stingeree", an experimental conventional piston/propeller driven plane but with an added jet engine. One of only 3 built in 1945. This aircraft, the third and final prototype, has the distinction of being the very last aircraft manufactured for the US Navy by Curtiss.
http://nebula.wsimg.com/5b5e21a7fb5b1cb5f1e7d90857975e47?AccessKeyId=2158F2CB6BFA6619063B&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

The museum also has a Bell AH-1W "SuperCobra". How fitting.
http://nebula.wsimg.com/b32ad126262c08220ea186dfc4f6c8d6?AccessKeyId=2158F2CB6BFA6619063B&disposition=0&alloworigin=1