SAAC Forum

No problem, I started driving big 4-wheel drive wagons (Jeep Wagoneers) back in the 70's when they were about the only vehicle of its type. They quit making them so I switched to Suburbans in 1996. I don't think Ford came out with the Excursions until late 1999. I drove the first Suburban for 16 years and the second for 8. I still have it and have bought a third. None have ever let me down.

But back to the thread. It could be that the GT350 is being saved from obscutity by a dedicated Shelby fan that had to call on a Chevy friend to tow it home. My Corvette friend helped me get my Shelby road-worthy again and I will forever be grateful. Maybe there will be a future post that will tell the true story.

Regards
Ted

Quote from: 67 GT350 on May 22, 2021, 12:01:20 PM

Looks like a Chevy truck towing it, thus it might not be good news for the Shelby as it may be in the hands of a flipper?

I tow our car all the time with a Chevy Suburban and I sure ain't flippin'. What ever the case it looks like the car in question is coming from somewhere not-so-good. Hopefully going to a better place. That can't be but so bad.

Ted

Even more photos

Photos 3

Photos 2

Photos

"Gonna be a good day Tatta". Lots of cars here and more coming.

One of the forum members has offered to provide a salvaged plug. At sometime in the future seems I could secure it in place with a few small tack welds then coat like Jeff suggests. On a completely assembled car it is an awkward place to work. My car is completely assembled and a "reasonably" well preserved example but does show some signs of use and age. When I make repairs I try to be as faithful as possible but do not attempt concours condition.

98SVT has offered a couple of methods for a temporary fix so I'll probably do some variation of that. Anything to shut off the heat for now.

Thanks to all
Ted

Quote from: calspcl on May 12, 2021, 12:22:18 AM
I have the wood grain replacement, great idea remove old wood woodgrain with heat gun.

Where are the attachment screws on the console? Any precautions ....

thx!

To remove the console from the car there are 2 screws in the bottom of the compartment under the arm rest. I have an automatic so I remove the shifter tee-handle and bezel and move the shifter to "1" position (to the rear). Console should slide back so you can disconnect gauges and wire to the light in the rear seat area. Never done a 4-speed but I would expect it to be similar.

Ted

Thanks guys. I wasn't expecting that answer but it makes perfect sense. The Tucker plug says "oval" so I'm not sure that will work, I think the Mustang hole is round, but we will see. Wheels in my noggin are turning on improvisation ideas, both temporary and permanent.

Thanks again
Ted

I have an automatic so I assume there is a plug for the firewall hole where the clutch rod would normally be for a 4 speed. It's close to 2" in diameter, left of the steering column and just above the parking brake assembly. Right now I have a year-round heater. I have found rubber plugs for most everything except that hole. Can someone identify and advise a source?

Thanks
Ted

Quote from: KR Convertible on May 07, 2021, 09:42:50 AM
My $.02

You don't need chemicals for the blue coating on new tires.  Hot water melts it off easily, the hotter, the better.

Black Magic Bleche White is not nearly as effective as the old Westley's Bleche White.  I am curious about the European formula Don mentioned, though.  Would be interested in feedback.

I wouldn't use a wire brush, especially with nice aluminum wheels.  It will scratch the clear on the wheels and possibly the rubber.  If the surface of the rubber is all scratched up, it will hold the dirt and be more difficult to get clean next time.  I clean mine regularly and usually just use a soft wheel brush.  If I have a spot that needs more attention I use a stiff bristle plastic brush.  You can get more aggressive by using steel wool, Scotch Brite, or even wet/dry sandpaper.  Start with fine grit and work your way up.

My biggest dilemma these days is how to clean wheels on the car when you don't want chemicals to affect your rotors when you have large openings in the wheels.  Specifically, Ford GT wheels.  I take them off to clean them.  A huge PITA!!

I checked the MSDS document for the product listed in OP and all hazard classifications come back as Category 1 so while it says "non-acid" you still need to use with caution and observe label warnings.

https://www.meguiars.com/sites/default/files/pdf/D143%20SDS.pdf

I have been a user of Black Magic Bleche Wite on tires since back when it was Wesley's and worked well. As others have agreed, it doesn't work as well now. I recently found this product at a detailer specialty store. I bought some and it seems to work well. You also can wash the wheel and tire with the same product. So far I've only used it on current factory wheels so I don't know how it would work on vintage alloy wheels. I also don't any tires with white letters or white walls so I can't address that either. I would be interested to hear if others have tried it and what they found.

https://www.meguiars.com/professional/products/meguiars-non-acid-wheel-tire-cleaner-clean-tires-wheels-without-using-acid

Best regards
Ted

We plan on being there with the 68 KR
I'll send email with photo
Thanks for doing this.

Ted

If this helps.
I have KR #3562, Auto with AC, late June build.
Fan is C80E-B
Clutch is C80E-C

Ted