SAAC Forum

The attaching tabs are punchouts that stand 90 degrees out from the molding's integral reinforcement. They were designed to pass through mounting holes in the hood and secured by bending another 90 degrees around to the underside.

They are very thin - from my experience you may get one or two unbending / rebending for removal and reattachment - then they break off.

The openings in the reinforcement are very shallow, making other mechanical attachment difficult. The holes are also too small for most molding "T" clips. Use of screws often results in dimpling the molding when the tip of the screw contacts its underside. I believe the reinforcement is galvanized, making welding replacement tabs onto it a job best left to professionals. I have also seen tabless moldings attached with two sided tape.

I have an NOS one. PM me if interested and I can pull it out / photograph it.

Try Bill Heeley, he has been rebuilding / selling OEM Ford shifters for decades and has reproduced many of the parts. I have dealt with him for many years and he is quite reliable.

No web site or online presence - call him

Bill Heeley
3621 Mt. Olney Lane
Olney, Maryland 20832
# 301-774 -6710

If Bill cannot help you, here is a tip: I have fixed this problem with a properly sized rubber "O" ring

I owned this car in 2011, it is #190. Purchased from Pete Tiegler of Massachusetts, who had owned it for some time and done a hobbyist restoration on it. I subsequently sold it to a dealer in Europe. Car was a nice driver class example, I attached a few photos from my file.

If anyone here has any serious interest, I may have more details on it in my archived file that I can make available.

It is actually a '62 Galaxie clock. Used in later Cobras - early cars had a Smiths English clock. I had several of the C2AZ Galaxie clocks NOS in the box that I had accumulated when I first got CSX2188. Let them go after the car was restored (took a Smiths clock as it turned out). I should have held onto one or two of them! 

Ford sold this style tach as an over the counter accessory and service replacement. The chrome cup and triangular mounting base identify it as such. These tachs have the pointer style needle. Since it was produced by Faria, who also made the "cricket bat" needle version, I would not classify this as a "reproduction", but it is arguably not assembly line correct.

I have Hertz car off lease return paperwork and the cars were often missing their original tachs. They were reconditioned with service tachs, so there are examples out there that had this style when sold out of the Hertz lease program, suggesting they are original production. Faria stamped a month/year production date onto the back of their units, so removing the cup should reveal its production provenance.

Here is a source -
Web site - https://pythonrestoration.com
Email - pythonrestoration@tx.rr.com

You might also try:
Rick Peraino
rmc products@pobox.com
610-246-0858

Hi Bret,
I'll take the stuff - will send you a PM and an email.
Bill

Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 16, 2023, 03:28:27 PM

Quote from: greekz on February 16, 2023, 03:17:24 PM
I had that problem a few years back and it was the ignition switch.

+1. I had the same thing happen with Bill Collins in the car with my continuation 66 GT350 convert. I wonder if you remember that Bill? It was the ignition switch ignition switch in my case. The internals are compromised and not working like a switch. Starter Solenoid issue is typically the starter continuing to be engaged and turning. wack it with something to knock the inside loose as Bill C mentioned.

You are right Bob - the "whack job" fix is to stop the engine from cranking. The no stop when turning the key off is the ignition switch. I've had it happen on a couple of other cars besides yours. Just a function of aging components. Speaking of aging, am I developing an "old timer's" condition? 

I have experienced this problem on cars with reproduction solenoids. The internal magnet jams and does not return to the off position.

Immediate fix is to grab a large plastic handled screwdriver and whack the solenoid hard with the blunt end. Permanent fix is to install an OEM Autolite solenoid.

The difficulty is seldom in the speedometer head itself. I would first pursue inspecting and lubricating or replacing the cable as suggested. If this does not solve the problem, the most likely cause is a worn out speedometer drive gear.

The driven gear, which is attached to the cable on the trans end, meshes to a circular drive gear pressed onto the transmission output shaft. This gear is plastic and over time the center of it wears down, creating a "dip" in the splines. It then makes only skipping contact with the driven gear, resulting in the needle bounce effect that you describe.

The gear itself is readily available from various toploader transmission suppliers. Installation requires removal of the transmission tailshaft housing. Exact positioning of the new gear onto the output shaft is critical for proper operation.

I have had several of these replaced over the years and it always fixed the problem.

Sent you a PM
Bill Collins

Quote from: 5s386 on January 31, 2023, 02:34:39 PM
Is there anyone, besides myself, that has seen the before and after pictures of the 2004 restoration?

I owned #208 in 2006 - I am in the chain of title in the Registry.

I recall that I have a file on it but it is apparently in the deep archives. The car came to me after its earlier first "restoration" but not fully sorted out. I know it had a passenger door window to roof rail alignment problem that no one up to that point had been able to correct but we fixed it. I displayed it at the Atlantic City show in February of 2006. It was a nice car and fun to drive, not concours material at that point.

I believe there may be some print photos in my file showing it "as found" before any of the early work was done, plus maybe some other descriptive material. If anyone is seriously interested in the car, I invite you to contact me and I can try to find the file.

bill@bcfords.com
717- 558-9000

Quote from: TA Coupe on January 31, 2023, 08:34:24 AM
Bill, did you go to a shop or someones house to get the posters because it sounds a lot like me. I still have a couple along with a couple of the super rare dealer 3 Cobra posters.
      Roy

I went to a shop in a commercial area. The posters were stored on pallets in a mezzanine atop an enclosure at the front entrance that housed the offices and a small showroom. He did not have any 3 champ posters, these were mostly from the Bartell set that SA sold in '65-'66: GT350, Sebring w/Daytona Coupe, World Champ '65 w/Daytona Coupe, plus the later '69 SSSShelby GT350/500.

I now recall that once Shelby American became Shelby Automotive, another company called Autosport Products was created to market the remaining SA posters and other promotional material like jewelry, key fobs, etc, plus sell a line of "CS (logo) Shelby" branded performance parts like intakes, valve covers, etc. The branding on the parts was changed from Cobra because Shelby had by then sold the Cobra name rights to Ford.

Autosport went out of business late in 1971 - I bought a pair of Cleveland/Boss 302 valve covers out of their inventory liquidation sale at the time. I think they cost me something like 20 bucks new in the box. The seller of the posters in 1988 had told me he got them in bulk out of what was probably the same liquidation.

Years later, while on a car buying trip to CA in 2004, I went back to the place to see if any were left, but they were all long gone by that time, or at least that's what I was told.

https://ontime.mecum.com/auction/shelby-american-le-mans-sports-car-racing-collection-220/bidgallery/?utm_campaign=Mecum%20On%20Time&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=243358474&_hsenc=p2ANqtz--U1eFyjDl_ip0qOzCqc0O7oc1QGrtAeMmZImMQJJI_zpR_08U5_-z8FLfsaYaGE3rDup08eHCZGU49RdfaNXWD6gPrxA&utm_content=243358474&utm_source=hs_email

Lot #7 in this auction, the Georger Bartell GT350 poster, is presently bid to $2611. with one day remaining. Adding the 25% buyer's premium and packing / shipping brings the total cost to around $3300.

There are 57 bids so there is obviously a lot of interest in this item. If anyone on here happens to be chasing this, I can save you a lot of money. I have in my collection several of these posters. They are authentic and in excellent as new rolled condition with vibrant color.

I acquired these at SAAC 13 in Santa Rosa, CA in 1988. An early well known California Shelby parts vendor was in the flea market selling select original posters that were part of the set originally marketed by Shelby American.

I was heavily into literature at that time and a conversation disclosed that he had a stash of brand new ones at his shop. He had acquired them when SA liquidated their inventory. He agreed to sell me some, and I visited his place after the convention. They have been rolled up in a box in dry dark storage ever since. These are the real deal, not the later reprint that was smaller in size and had washed out looking color.

I will sell these at $1500 each, shipping included. This is less than half of the current bid price + costs. The photo attached is for representative purposes only and is not one of the actual posters I have for sale. I will be happy to provide a photograph of what you are actually buying before any transaction takes place.

Bill Collins
Bill Collins Collector Fords
Harrisburg, PA

bill@bcfords.com
717-648-6600