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Messages - kram350

#151
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Original grill ?
March 05, 2018, 08:29:31 PM
Pictures of two grills.
#152
I asked "could" because it seems like a lot of bolts would be discarded and there are always forum questions as to what Monte Carlo bolt is correct? One would think; remove fender bolts, remove and install bumpers, install bar with bolts just removed, drill hole for hood pins. Maybe the order of assembly did not allow for this sequence of events. 
#153
When the front fender bolt was removed and replaced by the Hood Bumper Assembly C4ZB-16763 (for the hood pins) should there be bolt washer witness marks in the fender paint, or was this bolt left out during fender assembly along the line? If the bolt remained could this bolt have been used by SA for the Monte Carlo bar?
#154
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Original grill
March 02, 2018, 11:07:32 PM
I have two front grills, on one the edges of the horizontal bars are flat when viewed from the end of the grill (off the car) and the other has an angle cut that reveals more of the slat. Which is original or are both original? All the rivets are the same on both. Thanks
#155
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Export brace bolts at cowl
February 25, 2018, 10:47:56 PM
Thanks Jeff!
#156
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Export brace bolts at cowl
February 25, 2018, 09:29:52 PM
Yes, keep forgetting timelines and build dates! 6S2072 , April '66
#157
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Export brace bolts at cowl
February 25, 2018, 05:00:47 PM
I have seen lock nuts under the bolt heads and no lock washers. Does anyone know where the split washers are supposed to be located? The nuts I have are self locking but having two methods of security seems redundant? Thanks
#158
When you check the timing does that mean the initial, advance curve and of course, the total? A distributor machine can be your friend and once the timing is correct, the carb is usually pretty easy to sort. Best of luck. 
#159
Two additional thoughts, if the engine is idling with the mixture screws closed, the idle circuit is way too rich. That being said, if the idle feed restrictions are to small based upon your engines requirements (or they are clogged with debris ) you will have a hesitation and bog. Make sure the idle air bleeds and idle feed restrictions are open and no dirt is present. It really sounds like your timing is off and you are trying to fix a symptom and not the cause. #31 nozzles are way to big for what you have. I have a pretty radical engine and #25's do the trick. Good Luck
#160
Just some thoughts...

The initial timing may need to be further advanced or is too far advanced and you're chasing a bog thinking it's a carb problem? Based on the cam  and heads you might try setting the timing back to 10-12  BTDC and then tune the carb to that timing setting.  Initial timing setting is effected by many things, but I would set it at 10 BTDC and then set the carb up. Also, to slow of an advance curve can do the same. Get the distributor curved on a machine if you can.   

As the carb sits now, I would take it off to ensure the transfer slot is exposed +/- .035, looking from the bottom of the carb.

While it is off pull both bowls and set the floats; 3/8" primary and 1/2 secondary. Make sure the secondary butter-flys can move and you can adjust the secondary curb idle screw. You want the secondary circuit active. You may need to adjust it later if you need more air and if the screw is stuck its almost impossible to break it loose on the engine.

Check the seat and accelerator check needle under the accelerator nozzle to make sure it is sealing. Also, make sure the check ball or diaphragm in the primary bowl accelerator pump is sealing. I have had them leak. 

Set the idle screws back to 1-1/4 out. With the transfer slot set, do all your idle adjustments with the mixture screws, not the curb idle screw. If you think you need more idle air, adjust the secondary butter-flys, this keeps the primary transfer slot opening set and hence helps with a bog.

You are setting the accelerator pump with the throttle totally open, then measuring the .015"?

If you want, get a power valve plug to ensure you are not getting any fuel from the power circuit into the idle circuit as you get the idle circuit squared away. You can then reinstall a power valve to set the opening to ensure you don't lean bog under load. Put a vacuum gauge on the engine and set the idle screws for max vacuum.

Main jet size has very little effect on the idle circuit. Once you get the engine to idle you have to do other things to get the main jets sized, just as you have to size the power valve based on vacuum and engine RPM, cam size, load, etc.. One system at a time and you will correct it. A note book helps too! 

Check you fuel pressure, 6 psi.