SAAC Forum

    Nice "GT40" intake George . SK numbers  noted.  Intake ports widened to match C6FE cylinder heads

   EdwardGT350,
       I've played with these engines since the first came out. I'm sure SAI tested with open headers only back then . I don't see 300+ without them open , the heads limit the power severely. "If" we had the ability to assemble a complete NOS engine today , "I" feel it would produce LESS than 306 hp. "Blueprinting" and changing the ring package and a few other things "might" see over 306 as Cobra Automotive found for Steve.

Quote from: kingchief on June 08, 2018, 10:47:00 AM
I guess my numbers don't count! Never mind.

Steve


For those who care: They used the original heads and parts with open headers for the run.  I'll not post anymore.

   Steve ,
       The comment was not pointed at you (IMHO) "I" believe the comment was made because Cobra Automotive  does a MUCH better job than the average person and got you those VERY good numbers out of a "stock" engine. I would not expect anything less from them as they go the extra mile to make it happen.
   A while back , one of the magazines printed an article on a local ( So Cal) shop's customer rebuild of a '66 GT350 engine. I think they made 297 hp. SAI came up with  306 hp "in a different era" . The had 100+ octane LEADED gas and brand new parts . There are no notes or papers that exist on exactly how this number was determined that "I" know of.  That is a 35 hp increase over an "assembly line" 289 hi po .
     You have an exceptional engine Steve!
        Randy

   Looks like a clear cut case of "inappropriate touching" to me 

   That is one of the myths that my late friend debunked.  Oil only has a chemical reaction if other "chemicals" ( like gasoline) contaminate it. He suggested  once a month ( or so)  start ups to keep the additives "mixed" well in the oil. Long term "storage" in an oil pan subject to outside air and humidity can suffer from what he called additive fallout. In other words some of the additives (like anti corrosion additives) can "settle out" and  allow rust to form on anything ferrous. occasional starting keeps the oil mixed and "sprayed over the internals. Unless subjected to 250+* temperatures , oil does not "oxidize" as some myths also claim. If you remember oil (except in bulk barrels) isn't in metal containers ( except for the old cardboard cans with treated end caps). Same reason applies. What we have to be careful of these days is the alcohol in gasoline which "pulls" water out of the air. Since "some" of the gasoline does make it into the oil pan there is a potential problem there.
    Beyond that I don't see anything to show that it "magically" changes.
   Randy

  Brad Penn has been purchased by DA Lubricants but is STILL the same formula and is still GREEN. Back when I first got some drag race recognition , I had a Valvoline oil deal and some help from Harvey Crane . I was having bearing issues and Harvey suggested I try Kendall GT1 to solve the issues ( which it did). I'll never forget him telling me to "sell the Valvoline and buy a good oil". I did just that. That was 50 years ago and I still use it in my race engines. The majority of my "insight or expertise" comes from long talks with a retired chemist/ chemical engineer (rip)from Conoco . He gave me the stuff  from the scientific side , not the salesman side and totally unbiased. He had tested virtually every brand of oil on the market to see "what it was made of". HE was the man that enlightened me about additives and keeping them "in suspension" , which ones were OK and which ones had NO PLACE in engine oils. ( teflon and graphite for example) He "taught' me for many years until his passing 15 years ago. There are LOTS of guys smarter than me , but I don't have oil related engine failures and have avoided MANY by using my common sense and learned information. EGO is far overshadowed by the reward that comes from helping others.
    Randy

Quote from: BGlover67 on May 25, 2018, 01:40:47 PM
Is it possible that they made more than one 1968 Shelby GT500EXP?  One just recently ran across the auction block, but was a 'No Sale'.

   Craig Jackson is the current owner of the Green Hornet. Ye some time ago he did run it across the block where it did not meet reserve. No surprise there. As Pete said is is currently being restored to higher standards/authenticity than ever before. I hear the fuel injection will be working too!

Quote from: sfm5 on May 29, 2018, 06:44:46 PM

Quote from: gt350hr on May 29, 2018, 05:47:29 PM
    Since most guys don't , pick an oil and quality filter. Run it until the oil loses "transparency" ( mileage and use will cause a time variation). In some cases 3,000 is wasting "good" oil  and in others it's "just right".

          OK start shooting the flaming arrows at me now!
        Randy

Well that all sounds sensible - no flames from here! I always thought there also a time factor. Some of these cars are stored for longer periods and it may take 5 years or longer to rack up 3000 miles. How long can oil sit in the engine before you should change it regardless of mileage?

      I have heard some real stories. Oil in the original container should be good for many years. If the "stored" vehicle is started once a month or so , I see no reason why the oil won't last 5 years. My own drag race engine is coming up on 5 years since I changed the oil and the "mileage" is around 100 at this time. The oil in that engine is 30 year old Kendall GT1 that came in cans , not plastic bottles!  Engine oil isn't like brake fluid where it absorbs water so "I" don't see any issue with it setting for years. Some have said that oil "oxidizes" but IMHO that would come with high oil temps or dilution.
      Randy

   OK Gary ,
       I'll stir up the hornet's nest . Everybody wants to run zinc loaded oils to keep their flat tappet ( lifter face) cams from going "flat". "IMHO" , beyond that , there is NO reason to have ''high level" zinc oil.
      Starting and the basic knowledge level, cams that use flat face lifters ( hydraulic or solid internals) have "taper" ground into the lobe shape to promote lifter rotation , along with a specific , shallow radius on the actual lifter face to work with the lobe taper. Both the cam and the lifter are hardened to manufacturer specifications for long term wear resistance. New camshafts have a phosphate ( break in) coating applied to them . "Some" but not all lifters can have a similar face coating as well. If a camshaft OR lifter doesn't have the proper shape ground into it OR heat treatment, it will FAIL regardless of how much zinc is in the oil. Camshaft manufacturers typically include , moly paste , extreme pressure grease . or other "camshaft assembly lubes" in their kits for break in purposes. Most of the preceding is common knowledge. "most" camshaft failures occur in the initial start up and or first 50-100 miles or the break in time. Performance camshaft manufactures have ( recently) been increasing the amount of lobe taper to enhance lifter rotation in case a lower zinc content oil is used. It seems to be working as break in failures are down. Once beyond that camshafts have been known to last over 100,000 miles. Long term camshaft failure is "most" often traceable to reduced oil "splash" as oil pressure drops with larger bearing clearances. The only other "mechanical"  condition that can "flatten" a lobe is excessive valve spring pressure , "coil bind" or another form of valve train bind.
        Once "broken in", large amounts of zinc should not be "necessary" as lifter rotation has already been established. A lower zinc ( commonly available) oil should be fine. Oil viscosity IS directly related to bearing clearances and older engines need higher viscosity than "modern" production engines. Multi viscosity oils are recommended in colder climates or extreme racing conditions.
      Synthetics are great in modern engines and not a bad thing in flat tappet engines that have past the "break in " period.  Synthetics reduce friction and friction "flattens" flat lifter camshafts.

    IMHO ( again) the only way for you to REALLY know if an oil is doing a good job is to "regularly" look at the internals of your engine by taking it apart for inspection. Beyond that I don't know how anyone can boast about how good "their" brand of oil is doing for them. Since most guys don't , pick an oil and quality filter. Run it until the oil loses "transparency" ( mileage and use will cause a time variation). In some cases 3,000 is wasting "good" oil  and in others it's "just right".

          OK start shooting the flaming arrows at me now!
        Randy

Quote from: Bob Gaines on May 27, 2018, 02:52:37 PM

Quote from: shelbydoug on May 27, 2018, 12:04:09 PM
"Notched/plated shock towers"? This is the first I've heard of that.

That would be an A/FX modification, no? What class would that car be running in? Randy. You there? HELP! 

An A/FX Falcon, a '69 Boss '9, sure, but a '67 Shelby in a stock class? Huh? Hey Dave? Is this author mixing his metaphors?

I don't believe that was a SA modification but a subsequent owner mod.

+1 SAI didn't do that shock tower modification.  A 427 powered '67 was ONLY legal in the ( now defunct) AHRA and was probably the main reason so few were built. NHRA would never accept the car in a "stock" or "super stock"  class so it would have had tun in a "gas" class where it would not have been competitive as produced. By '67 A/FX cars were "funny cars" running in the 8 second ET range ruling out a car like this.

   Thanks . I stayed with the short deck ( 8.2) and 374ci.

  How many cubic inches in the engine?

 All they need now is some of the original "crew" to be involved. That will justify the cost.

  The registry would be easy,
     xxxxxx0001  Options :Whatever the current owner says . "One time owned by CS"
     xxxxxx0002  Options : something different than 0001   "Once owned by CS"
    ETC.

    Dan , I totally agree. Cobra builds were exactly "uniform". Being a local I also know what you mean about parts substitution of non critical components on them.
     Randy