SAAC Forum

My speedometer needle bounces when I am traveling below about 35MPH. It has about a 10 MPH bounce. Once over 35-40 MPH it smoothes right out. Is there a fix for that?
Corey

I have had a rattle in my front end since I bought my car.  I hear it when going slow over bumps.  I noticed that when I applied the brakes the rattle would go away.  I finally found out what is causing it.  There is a pin in the brake caliper that goes thru a hole.  The hole is much larger than the pin.  This allows the caliper to vibrate around the pin and cause the rattle.  It looks to me like the PO had gooped up the hole at some point to eliminate this rattle but the goop (probably some sort of epoxy?) has since broken down.  From the pictures can anyone give me guidance as to what is wrong.  Seems to me either this pin or the caliper is incorrect or it is missing something?  Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

We are finally having great weather here in Maryland so I took advantage by taking my baby to her last day of school in the Shelby.  It has become a tradition.

I had a front plate fabricated for my 1968 GT350 center console.  It turned out extremely well.  The guy who made it for me made two.  I have no use for the other one so I am hoping there is someone out there that could use it.  It is made out of sheet stainless steel.  I painted mine black but I did not paint this one.  I did not drill the four mounting holes either.  But if there is someone who wants this I will gladly give it to you for free.  You would just have to cover the actual shipping costs.  And I would ship it any way you would like.  Just let me know.

I am going to the New Exhibit Opening Reception tomorrow night (May 18) and wondering if anyone else will be there.  It is a new exhibit featuring "Mustangs: Six Generations of America's Favorite Pony Car exhibit as well as A Trio of Thunderbird's from the International Thunderbird Club".

They are having a cocktail hours followed by a panel discussion featuring Chuck Cantwell, John Clor, Gale Halderman and Art Hyde.

Hope to meet some of you there.

Corey

I have always noticed a small hole on the passenger side firewall at the top by above the hood gasket.  Always wondered why it was there.  Well I saw a beautiful 67 Shelby at a car show Saturday and saw he had a copper ground bracket screwed there.  The owner told me it was there to ground the stock steel hoods and Shelby never removed them.  So should I have a copper ground strap screwed into this location for my 68 GT350?

I am troubleshooting my tail light issues and want to eliminate as much as I can.  I removed the flasher tonight and took some pictures.  I would like to know if this is correct for my car.  I know it has to be a long delay flasher to allow for the sequential lights. The writing I see on it is HD-12 Flasher 12 Volts, 426, S.A.E 1945 (maybe it is hard to see the first two digits could be 1845?).

I tried posting pictures but can not get it to work.

I have a problem with my tail lights that has been there since I bought the car I just did not know it.  The tail lights work just fine by themselves or with the blinker on.  The brake lights work fine by themselves or with the blinker on.  But when you have the tail lights on and you apply the brakes the tail lights intermittently turn on and off all together. I have noticed since I bought the car that when I drive at night and come to a stop the dash lights turn off and on randomly.  I did not realize until yesterday that the tail lights turn off and on when the dash lights turn off and on.  The head lights are not affected by this.
Today I disassembled the tail lights and many of the sockets for the 1157 bulbs were in bad shape.  I repaired as best I could and do have all the lights working but they still intermittently turn on and off when both the tail lights are on and brakes are a applied.
I have always noticed that my sequential light sticks work kind of odd in the fact that when I apply the brakes the tail light turn on sequentially like they do for the blinker.  I do not believe that is correct?
So I am going to buy a new tail light harness and sequential light sticks but has anyone ever seen an issue like this and determined its caused to be something I have not considered?  Any help is greatly appreciated.  I hate electrical issues.
Thank you, Corey

I am selling the transmission I just removed from my 68 GT350.  It is clearly not the correct transmission for my car which is why I replaced it.  This transmission worked perfectly for me with absolutely no issues.  The PO told me he had the transmission rebuilt and I have no reason to doubt him. It was just not correct for my car.  I can send more pictures to anyone interrested. I am selling it for $1200 plus shipping if it can not be locally picked up here in Maryland.

I have tried attaching photos and it just will not work.  I can email photos to anyone who is interested.

I have three holes above the rear license plate in my 1968 GT350.  The wiring for the rear license plate lamp goes thru one of these holes but currently there is nothing in the other two.

Are these holes suppose to be there?  If so do they get plugged with anything?  Is there suppose to be anything in the hole where the license plate wiring comes out of to prevent water from getting in?

Thank you, Corey

OK so I went to buy the clutch assembly for my 1968 GT350 and of course nothing is easy.  It seems like the 10" is the standard but the 10.4" will bolt right in with no modifications required.  But in order to use an 11" one would have to change the flywheel and bell housing.  What is the common wisdom for the best clutch size to get for the 68 GT350?

Another question before I remove and replace my transmission and clutch.  Currently my bell housing is painted blue.  Is this correct for a February 1968 GT350 bell housing?  While it is off I may as well get it right.

I am considering replacing my throwout bearing when I swap out my transmission.  I am wondering two things.  1) is there a good place to buy a throwout bearing for the GT350?  2) Does anyone have any exploded views or how to documents for replacing the bearing?

Thank you, Corey

I purchased 2 new rear axle bumpers because my car did not have them.  The bumper is not symmetrical in that one corner has a much larger radius than the other.  I am wondering how to install these?  Should they be installed with the large fillet inboard or outboard?

In cleaning up my trunk this past weekend I got my trunk light functioning.  It works just the way it is supposed to but I can not figure out how.  Going in I did not know what made the light turn on and off because there is not visible switch like you see in the door to turn the light on when the trunk is opened.  However the light is on when the trunk is opened and when you get it about half closed it turns off.  Where is the switch located that is doing this?

I would like to get the correct trunk mat for my February 12 1968 GT350.  I see on Thecoralsnake.com that the speckled mat is what is discussed.  I have seen plaid in many cars.  Is it an either or situation or should it be speckled? 

Also where is the best place to buy one of these. 

Pete talks about  a pad that goes between the mat and the fuel tank.  Is that a separate part or is it attached to the mat.  If separate where is the best place to buy this as well?

I am in the process of freshening up the trunk in my 68 GT350 using the Coralsnake website as a guide.  The wiring in my trunk was unfortunately painted body color when they painted the trunk.  Is there any good way of stripping this paint without damaging the harness?

Can anyone tell me if the standard axle for my February built 1968 GT350, 4 speed, non A/C car would be a 28 spline or a 32 spline?  I know the 3rd member ratio is suppose to be 3.89:1 but sometime over the past 50 years it was changed out to a 3.50:1 (correct for automatic trans. car).  Would this make a difference for the axle spline count?

Now that we have SAAC Forum 2.0 up and running  I wanted to repost my never ending search for the small rectangular wood grain dash trim piece for a non A/C car for my 1968 Shelby.  I am looking for an original FoMoCo piece.  I have every other piece except for this one.  And the reproduction's wood grain just does not match.
It does not have to be perfect as my car is a driver not concourse.  Just would like one without cracks or broken off pieces with the wood grain in nice condition.

PM me if you have anything.

Thank you, Corey

I am sure this has been discussed on the old Forum but I spent last week in Southern California and visited the Marconi museum.  They had 3 great Shelbys and several other Mustangs as well.  Some other very cool other cars too.  Well worth the $5 donation fee.