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Topics - Corey Bowcutt

#21
I am trying to figure out how the inside surfaces of the front fender were finished leaving A. O. Smith.  These are some of my thoughts. 

The fenders I presume were painted off the car (at ford) because I know the screws are not painted? 

I presume the fenders were red oxide epoxy primed before body color was applied? 

From the pictures shown below that I pulled from thecoralsnake.com it appears the inside of the fenders were painted body color.

So were the insides in fact painted body color or was it red oxide with just body color overspray or...

Thank you,

Corey
#22
Appeals / Zink Dichromate
August 12, 2021, 04:05:53 PM
I am looking to get the parking light brackets and side marker brackets replated in the original Zink Dichromate finish (thank you Bob).  Does anyone out there do this or know of someone that does?
#23
I see this clamp on thecoralsnake.com.  I assume my February GT350 should have two of these clamps?  Does anyone know where I might get 2 of these clamps?

Thank you,

Corey
#24
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Power wire to coil
June 23, 2021, 12:31:28 PM
When I get my engine back I am going back to a stock points/condenser distributor.  What came on the car when I bought it was an electronic ignition (not pertronix though).  Before I removed the engine from my car I measured the voltage coming from the firewall.  It measured 12 volts before going into a large resistor mounted at one of the valve cover screw locations.  A wire from the other side of the resistor went to the coil.  From what I understand the voltage going to the coil should be 6 volts?  I really do not want to use this kludgy resistor anymore.  I was looking at the wiring diagram and I see what looks like a resistor.  I assume this is what takes the 12 volts to 6 volts in the stock arrangement?  My question is what does this resistor really look like under the dash and where would I find it under there?  I would like to see if it was bypassed somehow.

Thank you,  Corey
#25
I need to get an original distributor for my 68 GT350 4 speed rebuilt.  Can anyone recommend a good source for rebuilding these distributors?

Thank you,  Corey
#26
I need to reattach my 1968 Shelby Vin Plate to left apron.  I have a February 12th car.  I purchased some rivets from AMK specifically for this application.  The rivets are black.  Having seen many pictures I have seen black pop rivets but it seems the majority I have seen are silver.  Which is correct or are they both acceptable?

Corey
#27
Some PO I presume ran a discrete wire from the console oil pressure gauge on my 68 GT350 thru the firewall and to the pressure sensor on the engine.  The original white with red stripe wire is still there it was just black taped up and not used.  I am guessing this is not correct?  Can anyone tell me how the original oil pressure gauge was wired into this white with red stipe wire?  I can see under the dash where this wire comes thru the firewall and joins the main wire harness but lose it after that.  I presume it goes to an oil pressure light on the dash?  If so how did they tap into it to run the oil pressure gauge?

Thank you,

Corey
#28
I bought a new speedometer cable and I have a few questions.  The new cable has a 4-5 inch long reinforcement tube (shown in the picture) that came with it.  Does anyone know where this piece should reside in the routing of the cable?

Also the clamp shown in the picture was used on my original cable.  This is the clamp used down by the transmission support.  Does this clamp look correct?

Thank you,

Corey
#29
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Firewall details
March 29, 2021, 10:37:39 AM
I am done painting my engine compartment so it is time to start putting things back together. I would like to make it as correct as I can. Does anyone have a good picture of a correct firewall configuration for a 68 GT350 4 speed no A/C car?
Corey
#30
One of my headlight buckets came with a plastic grommet in the hole to protect the wire from the metal edge.  The wire harness on this side also has a rubber grommet as part of the wire harness that would presumably do the same thing,  The other bucket does not have either grommet.  Is there supposed to be a plastic grommet, rubber grommet, both or none?  If it is supposed to have the plastic grommet I have not been able to source any, does anyone know if they are available anywhere?

Thank you,

Corey
#31
I need to remove the cable harness from the headlight buckets.  Connectors on both ends of the harness are too large for the hole in the bucket.  I assume one has to remove the wire/contacts from the connector on the headlight side of the harness.  Just wondering if there is a trick to doing this so I do not damage things?

Thank you,

Corey
#32
Appeals / Rubber Splash Shield Stapling
March 16, 2021, 01:54:25 PM
I want to replace the rubber seals on my front fender splash shields.  The rubber seal kits come with stainless steel staples.  How does one go about installing these staples?  Is there a tool?

Corey
#33
As part of my engine compartment refresh I have completely stripped my engine compartment.  I was looking to replace the rubber seal where the steering column passes thru the firewall.  I was looking on NPD and I see 3 different seal possibilities. 

First is a foam donut.  I did not have this on my car.  Should I have it?

Secondly there was a rubber seal stating it is used for a long shaft steering box.  This looks like the correct one to me?

Lastly they have another flat rubber seal that does not look correct to me.

Can anyone verify which of these seals I should be using?  I am thinking the foam donut is used in conjunction with the rubber seal but just not sure?

Thank you,

Corey
#34
I have removed my Headlight bucket assemblies on my 68 GT350 and am not sure exactly what I am seeing.  Mine are in pretty rough shape but restorable if they are correct.  But there are differences between the right and left side that make me think something is incorrect with one or both.  I suspect things are not correct. 

I have a few questions that hopefully someone can answer:

1) Are the bucket assemblies and brackets the same for a 68 Shelby as for a 68 Mustang?
2) Does anyone have pictures of what a 68 Shelby headlight bucket and brackets should look like?
3) Does anyone have any decent original 68 Shelby bucket assemblies they want to sell?
4) I see Tony Branda has reproduction bucket assemblies and brackets.  Are these a good reproduction?
5) If Tony's are not good are there any good ones available?

Thank you,

Corey
#35
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Rocker Molding Removal
March 12, 2021, 06:40:59 PM
Can anyone tell me how to remove the rocker molding on my 68 GT350?

Corey
#36
Since I have the front bumper brackets removed I would like to clean them up a bit.  What was the finish on these 4 brackets?  Are the two center brackets finish any different than the outer tubular brackets?

Thank you,

Corey
#37
Appeals / Hoisting engine
March 01, 2021, 09:01:41 AM
I am preparing to pull my engine.  Is it safe with the aluminum intake to attached one of these engine lift plates to pull the engine?  If not what is the best way?

Thank you,

Corey
#38
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / What are these ports?
February 25, 2021, 08:28:19 AM
Can anyone tell me what these ports are?

Corey
#39
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Antifreeze in oil, HELP
February 21, 2021, 11:12:39 AM
I noticed last weekend I had antifreeze in my oil.  The only thing I had done to the engine other than replace the carburetor was while I replaced the carb I replaced the intake bolts because the ones that were there were ridiculous.  So I assumed I screwed up the intake seal so I removed the intake.  I cleaned up all mating surfaces and purchased new gaskets.  I ended up not using the flat cork gaskets on the china walls I used "The Right Stuff" on these flat surfaces.  I also applied a small bead of silicone around the coolant ports.  I applied "Copper Spray-a-Gasket" to just the head side of the intake gasket to help keep the gasket in place.  I installed the intake and torqued all screws per a torque procedure someone posted here on the forum for aluminum intakes. I ultimately torqued all 12 screws to 20 ft-lbs.

I felt everything went very well but I started the car and let it run for 5 minutes or so and it runs like a top.  But then I drained the oil and it again had antifreeze in it.  I am at a loss as to what has happened.  Does anyone have any suggestions for me?

Corey
#40
I have removed my aluminum intake on my GT350 and the accelerator return spring bracket looks very home made.  I looked at NPD and they have a return spring bracket but is advertised for a 2 barrel carb.  My bracket and the NPD bracket are shown below.  Is the NPD bracket correct for the 68 GT350?  If not can anyone tell me what should be used?

Thank you,

Corey