SAAC Forum

Quote from: JD on June 10, 2020, 10:14:40 PM
Based on this image it seems the Shelby in-trunk brackets were installed in the trunk after the Ford Mustang panel was "relieved" and the all the tail light components and fiberglass tail panel were assembled as a unit on a work bench and then attached to the car...

Exactly how I am doing it.   I even attached the metal inner buckets first but when I slide the assembled tail light panel through the buckets the fiberglass panel will not sit flush against the body of the car.  The tail light housings hit the inner buckets. 

Trust me I have tried multiple methods and I keep coming back to needing the deeper inner buckets, which are typically only on the flush mount fiberglass panels, despite mine are raised.  Wish I had a pair to test with.

Quote from: S7MS427 on June 10, 2020, 08:34:20 PM
If I remember correctly, the fiberglass panel goes on first.  It's riveted to the rear bodywork.  The tail light housings are held in place by sandwhiching the fiber glass panel between the tail light bezel and the cast tail light housing.   The "buckets", as you call them, are attached to the tail light housing with studs and nuts once everything is together.  If I'm wrong about this, others will chime in to correct me.  Hope this helps and I'm sure there will be suggestions for you to get the Osborn body assembly manuals.

Yes, I am assembling them as you stated.  The problem is the metal "buckets" will not go down flush with the metal tail panel. They hit the framework of the tail light housings.

I have been trying to mount the tail panel and inner buckets in the 67 GT350 we are doing. May 2 build date.   The problem I'm having is the inside buckets and the tail light housings are fighting each other.  I can put the fiberglass tail panel, including lights, on first but then the inside buckets have a large gap which will not allow the rivets to reach the cars metal tail panel.  If I put the buckets on the metal tail panel first and slide the fiberglass panel (with lights) in, there is too much gap between the fiberglass panel and the metal tail panel. I won't be able to rivet the fiberglass panel to the metal tail light panel. Again the tail light housings are hitting the inner buckets.  It does not help the tail light housings are not flat on the bottom!   I thought the metal buckets should be the short ones since I have a raised panel but I'm beginning to wonder.  Pictures show what I have.  Would appreciate any guidance.

I have had good luck with this company for rebuilding originals.

https://www.goldlinebrakes.com/

I have a main bracket available if you still need one.  PM me for details.

Car 2226. 

Quote from: Bob Gaines on May 11, 2020, 02:10:48 PM

Quote from: Horsman on May 11, 2020, 11:38:49 AM
Removed off a dry 67 GT Mustang. Both still have original hardware included. Great for that concourse restoration. $250 OBO plus shipping. Parts are located in north Texas.

FYI that exact style was also used on 68 and 69 Dearborn and Metuchen cars. That info will widen you buyer pool. FYI the SJ unique tie down style has square corners not rounded. Best of luck with your sale

You say square corners? Not sure what you mean.  These were on the 67 San Jose Shelby we are restoring.  Never been off the car since it was built.

Quote from: BGlover67 on January 28, 2020, 03:26:01 PM
Do you need early or late '67s.

The car was built May 2, 1967

Has anybody purchased the 67 68 quarter panel trim panels from California Pony cars?  They say they are fiberglass versus the molded plastic ones everyone else sells. Wondering how they look and fit compared to nice originals that are nearly impossible to find. 

https://calponycars.com/collections/1964-1973-mustang/products/1967-1968-mustang-fastback-shelby-quarter-trim-panel-with-roll-bar-cut-out

John

Have a set of radiator side supports with stamping C9ZE-K1 and 8JA.  I believe this would be correct for a 69 GT350 without A/C.  $100 includes free shipping in the US.

I have some original 67 GT350 fiberglass parts available.  They all need work.  Lots of pictures by clicking on the link below.  Prices are.

Hood - $2200 - SOLD
Nose Cone - $550 - SOLD
Tail Panel - $450 - SOLD
Deck Lid - $600

Link to pictures:  https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjKQmyqFMMwwisIovCf9kG86jdXP7Q?e=nbxdEl


Shipping will depend on your location.  Most parts will need to go truck freight.  I normally use Forward Air Freight. They are the cheapest and very quick.  You must pick up at their terminals.  Check out their website for pickup locations.   

Please send questions to the email below.

John
Cascade Classics
Phone: (253) 863-5669
email: cascadeclassics@live.com

I contacted Phil Severance and he has a guy who can possibly make the lenses.  I may have him make a few sets in case anyone else needs some.

Thank you. 

I need the oil and amp lenses (jewels) located on the bottom  the tachometer for a 67 Shelby.  They stick on the back side.  They were no where to be found when our cluster was opened up.  I'm willing to buy the whole tach if needed. 

Big thank you to Michael (2112) for taking the seat bottom out of his car to my upholstery shop! 

John