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Messages - 6s1640

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Up For Auction / COBRA oval air cleaner lid
« on: March 24, 2023, 08:59:22 PM »

Hi Vernon,

Are you getting out of the literature business?  Your literature website seams to be gone, at least I can not find.  I recognized some of the the Mecum pieces from your website.  I'm getting the impression the full scale stuff is taking all of your time.

Best wishes


1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: 66 Fuel Gauge Issue
« on: March 16, 2023, 12:03:54 AM »
This turned out to be an easier fix than expected, problem was the little constant voltage regulator that bolts on the instrument gauge cluster backside.

About 1.5 years ago I installed one of the new solid state regulators that apparently was not so.....solid. Never really considered this might be the issue because all the other gauges worked fine, but since the cluster was out to check connections decided to swap in an NOS regulator just in case and bingo, fuel gauge now works perfectly!

Hi Dave,  That would have been my first recommendation, but having the other gauges working was keeping from making the recommendation.  My experience, when the voltage regulator goes out, all the gauges seemed to swing.  Any idea why the other gauges continued to work?

I guess you don't need me to store your 110 octane racing fuel in my gas tank.  Dang.

Good job


Hi all,

This attached photograph was taken in 1977 at Portland International Raceway (PIR), where SAAC 17 was held in 1992.  Does anyone recognize the car? and is it a genuine GT350?  It looks like it could be. The two people standing in the photo are Norton Gaston and owner (GT350 owner) Dennis Howell (Name on car.).  Dennis is not shown in the 2011 Registry owner index.  Is this an MIA car?  It is also rumored this car is now vintage racing in California and the unknown current owner based in Sacramento.   Several of us are trying to ID the car.  Any ideas?



Up For Auction / Re: NOS 289 Hi-Po manifolds (not mine)
« on: March 11, 2023, 03:47:58 AM »
At that price, I'm not sure one can use them.  Once you put them on a car, they become used and less valuable.  The irony of NOS parts.  That makes for some very expensive cardboard boxes.

There seamed to be enough of these originals to go around.  If date code is important to a buyer, patients can save them lots of money.

In the attached image, there are two others sets advertised as NOS for 1/4 the price.  They can be found for less money.


1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: 66 Fuel Gauge Issue
« on: March 08, 2023, 11:51:23 PM »
Hi Dave,

I will store your fuel in my gas tank?  I will come down and help you.  LOL


1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Shelby Vin
« on: March 05, 2023, 12:22:48 AM »
At least be sure to get one that says "shelby american" with a "n" on the end, not "shelby america".


1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: 1966 Goodyear Blue streak
« on: March 04, 2023, 02:39:15 AM »
Hi Boxer,

I’m not sure what you mean by “Where does it mention backspacing on the wheel?“ The back spacing is actually measured. It is not stamped or printed on the wheel anywhere.   Check out the below image for a measurement on an original Hertz GT350 wheel. The back spacing is very close to 3 3/8 inches. There is a second image, showing the weld line, closer to the inboard side (where markings are stamped on this wheel) of the rim. If the weld line is closer to the outboard side (The visible side when mounted on a car.), it is likely a Chrysler or GM wheel with a near 4 inch back spacing.

On date verification, as far as I know on assembly line wheels, there are no markings to decipher a date code.

On the wheel for sale, the OP should measure the backspacing and include in the description.

I hope that helps.


1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: 1965 Cragar wheels Original vs repro?
« on: March 03, 2023, 03:44:55 AM »
Way back in the early days of the Shelby Club, there were article(s) how to fix those crusty old Cragars.  Many of these wheels lost their lust early on and nobody was restoring them back in the day.  The trick was to install "Trim Rings".  I'm uncertain which make and model trim ring was recommended, but they did dress up the wheel considerable.  Does any one remember the trim ring make and model?  Was the news letter the "Shelby Owners Association" or the "Marque"?

While visiting John Atzbach's collection, now several years ago, he actually had a 65 GT350 in his collection that had the trim rings.  The trim rings fit so well, nobody had noticed them until I pointed it out.  I remember reading about the trick and there it was in fact on a car.  It was not just a story.

I'm not suggesting you do the same, but sharing some history on these wheels.  Somewhere I have a picture of the car.  Maybe someone here knows which SAI VIN it was.

Best of luck.


1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: 1966 Rear brake air ducting question
« on: March 01, 2023, 09:48:08 PM »
Hi SFcarbuff,

Very nice.  Did you consider having them 3D printed? The duct fitting mounted to the the wheel well will be harder to make from a block, but might be easier to print.  Do you have a 3D printing source?  They would be plastic as well.

Best of luck


Up For Auction / Suspected Mopar wheels advertised as Hertz GT350H wheels
« on: February 22, 2023, 11:50:30 PM »
Hi all,

Be advised, I expect these wheels in the attached auction (eBay No. 374524031957) by MustangMasters428 of  fame are actually the Mopar wheel with the near 4 inch backspacing.  The seller was clever to not provide well images to confirm 100%, but the two attached images outlining the differences suggest Mopar.  A fellow SAAC member and I sent a note to the seller about the back spacing with no reply, further suggesting Mopar.  If they were legit, the seller would have included the back spacing dimensions.  He has too much other details to not include, unless deliberately absent.

Get the back spacing from the seller as 3.375 before even considering these wheels.  Then there are the condition issues to consider.

Hope this helps.


Wanted to Buy / Re: 65-6 HIPO fan
« on: February 20, 2023, 11:45:41 PM »
I recently sold a original HiPo fan blade with an indeterminate date code.  One of the characters looked like an upside down backwards "7".  Was this intended to be the bottom part of a"2" because the "2" was lost or damaged.  Or maybe is was a partial "2".   We will never know.  Because the date code was indeterminate, is the blade good for any application or non at all?  The new owner was happy.  The price was not as high as a nicely dated coded blade.   Another indeterminate date coded blade might be more affordable.

I have a late 1963 blade if interested.  Please send me a PM.

Good luck


Up For Auction / Re: 1967 GT500 Air Cleaner on Ebay with wrong description
« on: February 20, 2023, 11:16:06 PM »
Hi Bob,

Please help us out.  On originals, are the "COBRA" letters the same from sand cast to die cast?  Attached is a comparison image between the eBay lid and a die cast lid from the NVSAAC site describing an original.  The letters looks the same to me.  What am I missing?  The NVSAAC author describes the 1967 version as the "O" is wider than it is tall & the "R" has a curved foot.  The eBay lid seams to have these features.  The NVSAAC die cast lid has the rectangular casting impression around the Cobra lettering.  Is this also true for the sand cast?  The eBay lid does not appear to have this feature.

The NVSAAC author goes on to describe the repop lids with the "O" equal width & height & the "R" foot straight.  The eBay lid does not have these features.  The author says "But, I have also seen repop lids with the lettering as original but showing a sand cast finish on underside.   This sounds like the eBay lid.  Aren't the early COBRA oval air cleanse sand cast and should show a sand cast finish?

Can you please provide some images showing the differences so we can learn?  With your clarification, we will all be smarter.



Wanted to Buy / Re: 65-6 HIPO fan
« on: February 20, 2023, 02:35:53 AM »
Any particular date code?  Originals are very expensive.


On the Mustang 428 Cobra Jet site, they show two version of the 428 Cobra Jet harmonic balancer.  "...The A2 damper is slightly heavier (6.9 lbs. vs. 6.3 lbs.) and has a thicker (0.75" vs. 0.55") outer ring as compared to the A1 damper. They both have the same 7" outside diameter..."  Can anyone help me understand why Ford engineered two versions under the same part number C8AZ-6316-B?  The CJ site has received input from 428 CJ owners, claiming both A1 and A2 balancers have been found on the 68 Cobra Jet cars.  Are they both equally right?

I checked on the Ford MPC, and it provides no additional information for the two versions, both the June 1968 and May 1975 printing.  The 1975 MPC shows D2TZ-6316-A.



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