SAAC Forum

Hi all,

I believe this is an original lid based on the below listed  4 features and the info here and on NVSAAC.  Is this right?  What year does this make the lid with the wrinkle paint finish?  1968?

1) Die cast marks on underside
2) Rectangle casting mark around "COBRA"
3) The "R" curved foot
4) The "O" is wider that tall.

Thanks

Cory

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266187400406?hash=item3dfa0164d6:g:hxsAAOSw2o1kHjGw&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABIGr9dTfBk%2BIJV2RFL03ynY6pPsEZfWgt9yJAxYw1cshGWPGPAb2lui3XYKd6PwM6aGFrxFQguuTnK9sYmK7dJTizlLZjS6I3afAsQ6tgWxRptqwPP%2BFEqh5gmcfFvKRBzPhZHdGaeEegZYXGHVYzREaSJa4WUSJK%2B4P6o7u0FSgCqXiU5IrMVm070T2I22ZCC5kHarusHuMoP21eirKYABBBa%2F3%2B3DkJj7JRt5PwNJsTG6NyUdj%2FCeh5TuwrloZey4Z9Bz6wns95quk6Bc2RobH5iA22%2BMaPvJyeOSDOeD2yEKEK1vQ5PxrY5jN1jtkiuAj9kImeGBhKFgWp0tytb3%2FnG8PUVfcOcm4XbFG6%2ByfZUtGYSOeseuen90J6AxeAqA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9q14-LiYQ

This turned out to be an easier fix than expected, problem was the little constant voltage regulator that bolts on the instrument gauge cluster backside.

About 1.5 years ago I installed one of the new solid state regulators that apparently was not so.....solid. Never really considered this might be the issue because all the other gauges worked fine, but since the cluster was out to check connections decided to swap in an NOS regulator just in case and bingo, fuel gauge now works perfectly!

Hi Dave,  That would have been my first recommendation, but having the other gauges working was keeping from making the recommendation.  My experience, when the voltage regulator goes out, all the gauges seemed to swing.  Any idea why the other gauges continued to work?

I guess you don't need me to store your 110 octane racing fuel in my gas tank.  Dang.

Good job

Cory

At that price, I'm not sure one can use them.  Once you put them on a car, they become used and less valuable.  The irony of NOS parts.  That makes for some very expensive cardboard boxes.

There seamed to be enough of these originals to go around.  If date code is important to a buyer, patients can save them lots of money.

In the attached image, there are two others sets advertised as NOS for 1/4 the price.  They can be found for less money.

Cory

At least be sure to get one that says "shelby american" with a "n" on the end, not "shelby america".

Cory

Way back in the early days of the Shelby Club, there were article(s) how to fix those crusty old Cragars.  Many of these wheels lost their lust early on and nobody was restoring them back in the day.  The trick was to install "Trim Rings".  I'm uncertain which make and model trim ring was recommended, but they did dress up the wheel considerable.  Does any one remember the trim ring make and model?  Was the news letter the "Shelby Owners Association" or the "Marque"?

While visiting John Atzbach's collection, now several years ago, he actually had a 65 GT350 in his collection that had the trim rings.  The trim rings fit so well, nobody had noticed them until I pointed it out.  I remember reading about the trick and there it was in fact on a car.  It was not just a story.

I'm not suggesting you do the same, but sharing some history on these wheels.  Somewhere I have a picture of the car.  Maybe someone here knows which SAI VIN it was.

Best of luck.

Cory

Hi all,

Be advised, I expect these wheels in the attached auction (eBay No. 374524031957) by MustangMasters428 of  fame are actually the Mopar wheel with the near 4 inch backspacing.  The seller was clever to not provide well images to confirm 100%, but the two attached images outlining the differences suggest Mopar.  A fellow SAAC member and I sent a note to the seller about the back spacing with no reply, further suggesting Mopar.  If they were legit, the seller would have included the back spacing dimensions.  He has too much other details to not include, unless deliberately absent.

Get the back spacing from the seller as 3.375 before even considering these wheels.  Then there are the condition issues to consider.

Hope this helps.

Cory


https://www.ebay.com/itm/374524031957?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20220705100511%26meid%3Db87f0bc610f941b28b5665218bd4e7dd%26pid%3D101524%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D374524031957%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DFord&_trksid=p2380057.c101524.m146925&_trkparms=pageci%3A6a03b00f-b32d-11ed-8ca7-7ab3bf7b3551%7Cparentrq%3A7c6627f21860a120a8830fe3ffffe7be%7Ciid%3A1

Hi Bob,

Please help us out.  On originals, are the "COBRA" letters the same from sand cast to die cast?  Attached is a comparison image between the eBay lid and a die cast lid from the NVSAAC site describing an original.  The letters looks the same to me.  What am I missing?  The NVSAAC author describes the 1967 version as the "O" is wider than it is tall & the "R" has a curved foot.  The eBay lid seams to have these features.  The NVSAAC die cast lid has the rectangular casting impression around the Cobra lettering.  Is this also true for the sand cast?  The eBay lid does not appear to have this feature.

The NVSAAC author goes on to describe the repop lids with the "O" equal width & height & the "R" foot straight.  The eBay lid does not have these features.  The author says "But, I have also seen repop lids with the lettering as original but showing a sand cast finish on underside.   This sounds like the eBay lid.  Aren't the early COBRA oval air cleanse sand cast and should show a sand cast finish?

Can you please provide some images showing the differences so we can learn?  With your clarification, we will all be smarter.

Thanks

Cory

On the Mustang 428 Cobra Jet site, they show two version of the 428 Cobra Jet harmonic balancer.  "...The A2 damper is slightly heavier (6.9 lbs. vs. 6.3 lbs.) and has a thicker (0.75" vs. 0.55") outer ring as compared to the A1 damper. They both have the same 7" outside diameter..."  Can anyone help me understand why Ford engineered two versions under the same part number C8AZ-6316-B?  The CJ site has received input from 428 CJ owners, claiming both A1 and A2 balancers have been found on the 68 Cobra Jet cars.  Are they both equally right?

I checked on the Ford MPC, and it provides no additional information for the two versions, both the June 1968 and May 1975 printing.  The 1975 MPC shows D2TZ-6316-A.

Thanks

Cory