SAAC Forum

Hi all,

I finally received these 1966 GT350 center cap nuts.  As far as I can tell, they are identical to originals.  In the image below, the new nuts are on left and originals on right.  I had to buy a bunch to get cost per nut down due to minimum  shipping and handling cost.  If you need any, I'd like $1 each, minimum 4, plus $1 USPS first class mail.  PayPal friends and family works well.  Please send a message if interested.  Thanks
Cory

Hi all,

Just behind the fastback quarter panel, driver side, there is a cutout that wiring passes through for the courtesy light in the quarter panel.  There is tape covering the hole the wire came through.  Below is an image of that tape.  Any suggestions on some new tape that matches this old tape.  It is very near 2.75 inches wide.  There was some same tape to also protect the wiring from a sheet metal edge where the wiring exited the hole.  I would bet the tape was original black but has aged/faded to this green color.

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

Below are two radio power wire extension images that have been identified for the early GT350's and Mustang.  Any ideas why the two colors on the connectors, yellow and black? Both wires shown below are part marked C5DB-18A9149-A.

Is one early and the other late?

Is the difference on the build plant?

Is it a supplier difference?

The wiring diagram that I have shows this wire as Yellow-Black.  That should be the color of the wire, not the connectors and wire.  The wire appears to be black with no striping.  Any thoughts?

What is the assembly line wire color and connector color for 1966 GT350's.   Would this wire have been installed at Hi Performance Motors with the radio?

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

Just in case you did not see these.  These are listed by John who can make the HiPo C4 tags.  Best of luck.

Cory

7-66 rad (Not likely a GT350.  The San Jose GT350 production may have been completed for such a late date code.)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255224756928?hash=item3b6c94bac0:g:u40AAOSw7QVhjoAA

10-65 rad  (This an excellent rad for a GT350 or GT350H automatic)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255224539619?hash=item3b6c9169e3:g:3U8AAOSw~dZhjQis

Hi all,

I have a buddy that purchased this 1966 GT350H back in 1972.  It took his entire checking account minus $5 so the account would not close and a brand new tape deck player.  He purchased from a kid that was working at a nearby grocery store.  The car was parked there for three months,  advertised for sale, before my buddy took the plunge.  The car was heavily drag raced with a high rise dual quad set up.  See the modified hood scoop.  And, it does not have the hand brake warning light.  Enjoy

Cory

P.S.  I will see if he has better pictures to share.

Hi all,

What is the assembly line set of eye bolts, two short and two long?  Or did cars come with a mix or all long.  See below image of short and long.

Does the long go on inboard side in hump with underlayment and padding to go through?  Then short goes on outboard side with just carpet to penetrate?

Thank

Cory

Hi all,

Please see image below.  Is this the period assembly line sensor that mounts to parking brake?

Can some one take a picture of this piece installed?

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

Don't be tempted.  These chrome Magnum 500's are the Chrysler/Mopar wheel.  The seller is advertising the back spacing to be 3 & 5/8 or 3.625.  The GT350 magnum 500 is closer to 3 & 3/8 or 3.375.  This is a quarter inch difference.  They do have the right markings 795C and the 14X6, but too large of back spacing.  You can also see in the side images, the weld line is slightly closer to the outside of the wheel or slightly left of center in the flat.  Original GT350's Magnums, the weld line is slightly closer to the inside of the wheel or right of center on the flat.

Best regards

Cory

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224648953778?hash=item344e1effb2:g:7dIAAOSwxaFhafNy

Hi all,

I have been seeing several Hertz models with the metal trim around the brake and gas pedal.  Is this typical of the GT350H?  I thought this was a deluxe only interior feature.  I thought all GT350's were absent this trim, part of the standard interior.  I expect an owner may have added.  Which is assembly line correct for the rental car, pedal trim on absent?

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

Can anyone confirm that the AMK stamped nut B-10639 is the same nut used on the Magnum 500 center caps.  They look right, but thought I'd ask if any one has purchased and used on the plastic caps.  Below are images of originals, NOS and the AMK nut.

I sent a note to Brant at VCM, but he was not sure if they were the ones or not, but thought they look the right size.

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

Does anyone have a spare that are willing to sell?  Or info what other 4100 carb the same booster might come in.  This is the primary booster to a C6ZF-F or -C carb.

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

What tag should a 1966 Mustang 289 with a 1-66 dated coded W-MO radiator get?  The current AMK guide for this application shows no tag.  An older AMK guide shows C6ZE-H2.  It appears AMK has dropped the H2 tags.  In the absents of the H2, should I go with the G2 or none at all?

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

This is only slightly related to the 66 GT350, only by day-2 modifications, tranny swaps back in the day, automatic to four speed.  The Toploader was likely the tranny of choice.

Can any one tell the difference between the HEH-BX and the HEH-BT Toploaders?  Both are close ratio four speeds, built on the same case C5AR-7006-D.  The HEH-BX according to Mustangtek was from October 1, 1964 for both 1965 and 1966 Mustangs, both HiPo and LoPo 289.  The HEH-BT was from February 1, 1965, four months later only ID'd for 1965 Mustangs.  I assume for LoPo 289's only.

Did the HEH-BX have better bearings or some other difference to make it more heavy duty?  Was the HEH-BT a little cheaper to build for the LoPo 289 Mustangs, but then dropped for 1966 model year, maybe because the savings really was not there?

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

I am trying to understand a variation on the G.T. 350 emblem.  The attached photographs shows two versions.  I believe the upper is the later production version that was altered for better casting features.  The lower version is a used emblem off a car in the mid 400s. It does appear to have casting flaws on the backside and smaller casting flaws on the front.  You can see the divots on both sides.  The later version is a much cleaner casting.  Do I have it right from early versus late?  Do we know when the transition occurred?  I am betting all 65's got the early version and into the 66 production.  Somewhere in the 66 production, the later emblem was introduced.  I expect there was overlap or mixing of both versions during the transition.  So there is probably not a clean break.

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

Does anyone still make the red background HERTZ Magnum 500 sticker?  I can only find the yellow background sticker.  In the GT350H  tri-fold brochure, it shows what appears to be the red background sticker.  Is that right?

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

I have a 1/65 Wittek tower clamp 1-1/16 No. 10 for trade for same but date codes 3/65,  4/65 or 1/66.  Please see image.

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

I have a very nice Ford 1968 power steering control valve, no wear on the outside, but the inside bushings are pitted.  Can these be pushed out and replaced? Please see images and advise.

Image 1  - Inside view showing pits

Image 2 - Side by side outside compassion, control valve on right with heavy wear.  This seams like a design flaw.  Left valve with inside pitting.

Image 3 - The warn valve with good insides.

Can the bushings from the warn valve be installed into the pitted control valve?  Is there a tool for this, maybe similar to a camshaft bearing tool?

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

My understanding this blade is for a small block 1968 Mustang, Cougar or GT350 with air conditioning.  It seams to be in very nice shape.  It came off a running car, FE, so not the right application.  The clutch shall be sold separatly.  It feels snug.  Not too loose and not too tight.  I am assuming that is good.  It does turn, but you can feel some resistance.  If I got it wrong, please let me know.

$100 for the fan, $150 for the clutch,  plus the ride for each.  See images.

According to Mustang Tek, below are the applications their website also ID's for just the blade:

66 289 Mustang w/Hang on AC
66 289 Fairlane w/AC w or wo/TE
66 289 Fairlane Power fan
67 289 Mustang w/AC
67 289 Fairlane w/AC, Power fan w_or_wo/TE
68 Shelby GT-350
66-67 289 Falcon w/AC w_or_wo/TE

See   http://www.mustangtek.com/fan/C6OE-G.html

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

I ended up with too many seal kits.  This is the Danial Carpenter kit P/N C5ZZ-18500.  The cover sheet says good for "65-68 Mustang and Cougar except 67-68 with in-dash air conditioner."

$20 to your door, includes shipping.

Thanks

Cory

Hi all,

I am putting a new foam kit into a 66 GT350 heater box.  I am having trouble getting the two halves of the heater box to seat into each other to install the clips.   I even removed a section of foam on the sheet metal internal flow control assembly, to get it to seat flush on the heater box.  I feel the foam is too stiff and is not crushing like it should.  Or it is too thick or both.  Has anyone else had this issue?  Is there a better kit out there that better matches OEM?

I just checked the NPD kit and it says:

GASKET SET  18A569-1C, Heater Box, repro, kit includes some components that are made of a more correct open cell foam that is much more compressible than the other kits, The cowl seal is not as nice and users may want to consider the 18A569-1 heater inlet to cowl gasket separately, Includes gaskets for both side and top hinge doors.

Any body try this kit?


Thanks

Cory