SAAC Forum

Hi Bob,

I agree with you.  I am guilty of exactly what you said ".... in the case of the sellers auctions but many times ebay buyers depend on the seller to know what he is talking about or to be above board with his description."  I purchased, what the seller described as an original 65-66 HiPo differential yoke.  I did not do my homework (my fault).  He did provide enough info if I had done my homework would have determine an inaccurate description.   After receiving and comparing to actual HiPo yoke, turns out it was not.  The seller is a well known Shebly Mustang restorer/retailer.  (I don't think he is on this site as a member.)  I trusted him to not have to do my homework.  After trading several email with him, he was still convinced I was wrong and he was right.  I sent him data out of the Ford MPC with key dimensions that were in conflict with his yoke.  (The homework I should I done.)  He did the right thing and accepted my return, but it was a hassle.  It pays to do your home work or have current knowledge of the right parts.  Every purchased should be an informed one.

Take care

Cory

Hi Jim,

The weather in Green Bay looks pretty nice for this time of year.  Do you have a special vortex machine around 2215 O Connor Rd to keep the snow and rain away?  Last time I was there it was pretty snowy but sunny.  Much snow on the ground now?

Thanks for sharing

Cory

Hi Karl,

You are welcome for the information and glad to help.  That is what this forum is all about.  On the four base diameter opening's for the carb, I found the below inside dimensions and how well they fit on a Autolite 4100 ZFC carb.

5.05 inch (Repop, will not seat onto the carb.  Possibly an older repop.)
5.08 inch (Repop, barely fits, requires pressure to seat, the radius on the lip opening helps.)
5.10 inch (Repop, fits, but not by much, the radius on the lip opening helps.)
5.15 inch (Original.  Goes on nice.)

The OD for the ZFC carb is 5.10 inches.  This helps explain why the repops are challenged to install.

I hopes this helps others properly ID a correct HiPo lid base.

Take care

Cory

Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 13, 2018, 11:17:16 PM
Cory , you should do your research first to confirm what is 67 and what is 68 if you are skeptical of my expertise. In this case you better go back to school. If you don't know the difference in this instance how do you expect a un informed buyer to know the difference. If this was a single incident I could see giving him a pass but if you check out many of his other "Shelby" marked auctions you can see a pattern of sloppy misrepresentation of details . You of course have to have the background knowledge to tell which is correct and which is false and mis representation. It reads like you think we should leave Mustang and Shelby buyers are forum friends included to their own devices to navigate through false and misleading information just like on the pookie auctions.

Hi Bob,

I can tell I have touched on a delicate matter for you, but thought important to share my opinion on the forum as well. I don't disagree with you on your assessment.   It is an onerous responsibility to keep sellers of Mustang and Shelby parts honest and all the forum members should benefit.  I applaud you for your attempt, but nearly impossible to administer.  I apologize if you I have agitated you.  I am not questioning your expertise.  You are very well informed.  You are quite helpful and I appreciate you sharing information often.  I can always learn something from you.  When I make a purchase, if I am not familiar with the item, I attempt to find alternate reliable resources to confirm the seller's description is accurate or not.  I do not take them at face value and others should not as well.   I too have posted on this forum auctions with incorrect descriptions.   It is unfortunate that sellers make  misrepresentations on their offerings.  It is this forum that helps other members be informed.  Together, we are smarter.   I still stand by my opinion of the seller.

Take care

Cory

Hi Bob,

I'd like to give the seller the benefit of the doubt.  He currently has near 11,795 listings.  I expect he may get hundreds and hundreds of email a day.  Can you imagine the time and effort to manage all those inquiries and making adjustments to all these listings?  He has to prioritize his efforts and correcting the tiny error is such a low priority to his other efforts, he has pushed it off to fix later or let it ride.  The seller has always treated me honest and fairly.  I do not believe he is intentionally misleading buyers.   The description as far as he knows was accurate based on his experience.   Compared to other sellers, this is a very very minor error.  The images in the auction are excellent and show the parts well.  The potential buyers own the responsibility to make sure its what they want, not the seller.  Buyer to confirm fitment.  I have no issue with this listing. The question is" Is there is enough information for the potential buyers to make an informed purchase?  I strongly belived the answer is "Yes".

The West Coast Classic Cougar site shows this same nozzle application to 1968 Cougar and Mustang as well as 1967.

Respectively

Cory

Hi Karl,

Here are four side by side images of an original 5A HiPo lid base next to several reproduction bases.  The easiest way to ID an original to a repop is examining the breather nipple.  As in the OEM stuff, there are variation in the reppop world too.  There are three repops compared to the same original.

You can see quickly the differences.  Yours looks like an original.

Another difference, but harder to confirm without a accurate measuring device, is the opening on an original is slightly larger than the reproduction.  The reproduction I photographed just barely fits onto a 4100 Autolite ZFC carburetor, but the original fits with a little more clearance.  I will need to find my micrometer and post the actual dimensions.

Good deal on your find.

Cory

Hi A1965GT350,

I love it.   I like the slow moving camera angle with the time lapse. Thanks for sharing.

Cory

Quote from: 69mach351w on December 07, 2018, 11:46:54 PM
Cougar Eliminators were introduced in 69-70, none in 67.

Correction made.  I should have known better.  Typo

Thanks

Cory

As long as the potential buyers knows and understand what they are getting and happy with the final price, then all should be good.  It is the surprises later that could be a problem.  Then I have issues.

I have a buddy that just called me today that is purchasing a beautiful Wimbledon white 1969 Cougar ELIMINATOR.  It does not have the original engine, but does have a freshly built 351 Windsor.  I told him he might be paying too much for a non-original drive train and that if and when he goes to sell, that will hurt the price.  We both agreed, if he loves the car, enjoys and drives the car regularly, then all should be good.

Take care

Cory

Hi Craig,

You should compare against a known second printing and report back.  Without your comments, I'd believe it was a legit second printing.  The first printing is the only one I feel comfortable confirming legit.

Vern has studied these much better than me.  I wonder if he will reply.

Thanks for sharing

Cory

I hope it is legit.  The seller has zero feedback and may be his first item.

Cory

It does have the hard to find C4ZE-G2 W-MO radiator.  Looks like 3 65 date code.  I think this date code is the most common for 1965.

Cory

Hi Kram350,

When you rebuilt those other shocks with the new shafts, were you able to retain the same original style gland nut and seals?

Thanks

Cory

Quote from: Bob Gaines on November 29, 2018, 04:41:32 PM

Quote from: J_Speegle on November 29, 2018, 04:24:35 PM

Quote from: OldGuy on November 29, 2018, 03:44:26 PM
Here's couple pictures of real radiator tops. They look like the ones in the E pay add.
Frank

Guessing, though you didn't include a picture, that the 1 65 dated radiator top you posted had a identifier stamped in the top tank. Need to look at the whole thing rather than individual points only

Question would be IMHO is where would a unmarked (no identifier) top tank come from dated with that date?

I think one possibility would be that the top tank come from the metal finishers work bench that worked the top tank embossed area out flat.

+1

The auction ended.  Did someone call the seller on it?  Or did he see this thread and pull it?

Cory

Hi Frank,

Based on your first image, the auction rad could be a legit 1 65 date code.  Just not a G2.

Thanks for sharing.

Cory