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Messages - 6s1640

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976
Hi all,

I am trying to track down a car from a WASAAC buddy that unsuspectingly passes away recently.  (Bud, rest in peace, I miss you already.)  I do not have the family contact info and unable to reach them.  Bud lived near Tacoma Washington and I am hearing that the car was sold and maybe still in the Puget Sound area.  Does anyone know who purchased the car and willing to share the new owners contact information?  I still have never seen Bud's GT350H.  Please send me a PM.

The car may have been advertised in the LA Craigslist or similar publication.  I did not see the ad.  Did anyone see the ad?  The car is currently white with gold stripes, believed to be originally green.

Thank you

Cory

977
Hi all,

A few years ago I  purchased a 715 cfm Holley 3259-1 with date code 612 for second week January 1966.  I am having it restored, but before I sent off,  I disassembled to make sure the insides were complete and/or there were no surprises.  What has me curious is the power valve I removed.   It does not have the usual spring and valve.  It appears to be a plug but does have holes below the threads that might allow fuel to flow.  From the plug power valves I see on line, they have no holes.   Attached is an image of that power valve.  Please help me understand the intent of the version of power valve.  Is it a plug or does in just allow more fuel to flow regardless of vacuum?   Also, there appears to be a rivet in the end.  Was it a standard power valve and modified?  Was this rivet part of the original piece or was it added for additional affect?

Thanks

Cory

978
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Buddy Bar valve covers - Question
« on: November 21, 2018, 02:00:36 PM »
Hi Iceman,

Good eye on the hyphens on the pax side cover.  I did not realize.

Thanks for sharing.

Cory

979
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Buddy Bar valve covers - Question
« on: November 21, 2018, 02:38:41 AM »
Hi Brian,

Did you get a hold of the seller and get the other set to re-mix and match?

Best of luck

Cory

980
Cory,

All gears are normalized to the 4th gear final ratio so for all the others you must divide their result by the 4th gear ratio of gear teeth to cluster gear teeth.

For example 1st gear: (36/17) / (26/29) = 2.36

Dave

Hi Dave,

Okay.  Guess what 29/26 = 1.1154 Fudge Factor.  (or 1/(26/29) = 1/.8965 = 1.1154).  Below is a some info I pulled from the web.  It is describes the calculation you made.  I still don't understand, but will keep digging.   Somehow the 4th gear is driving all the other gears, thus the (drive/driven) ratio?  I guess it is time to pop a side cover off and turn the input shaft and see what gears rotate and which are the drive and driven.

Good deal

Cory

981
Hi all,

I am having trouble calculating transmission final gear ratios.  Help me understand where I am going wrong.  Below is the table for the 65-66 T10M1 gear set.  By dividing the gear teeth by the corresponding cluster teeth should be the final ratio, but it does not match the advertised final ratio.  What am I doing wrong?

                  Advertised Final Ratio       Gear tooth count     Cluster tooth count   Ratio of gear teeth to cluster gear teeth
1st gear           2.36                                  36                              17                            36/17 = 2.12, should be 2.36
2nd gear          1.62                                   29                             20                           29/20 = 1.45, should be 1.62
3rd gear          1.20                                   27                             25                           27/25 = 1.08, should be 1.20
4th gear          1.00                                    26                            29                              26/29 = 0.90, should be 1.00

All four calculations can be corrected with the same “fudge factor” equal to 1.1154.

For example:

1st  gear  with 2.12 X 1.1154 = 2.36199, rounds to 2.36
2nd gear with 1.45 X 1.1154 = 1.61731, rounds to 1.62
3rd  gear with 1.08 X 1.1154 = 1.20462, rounds to 1.20
4th  gear with 0.90 X 1.1154 = 1.00000, rounds to 1.00

What am I missing?

Thanks

Cory

982
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Buddy Bar valve covers - Question
« on: November 19, 2018, 11:36:39 PM »
Hi Earl,  Your service part looks like an assembly line part with "BUDDY BAR CASTING CO." markings on the inside.  Now just need to find its mate.

Thanks for sharing

Cory

983
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Buddy Bar valve covers - Question
« on: November 19, 2018, 05:32:40 PM »
Hi Brian,

The best way to create two original sets is mix and match two originals with two repops.  I own  one of these sets and was not smart enough at the time or too trusting.  This was back in circa 1986.  I fell for the scam.  The original BB cover was on the table at the swap meet in Wichita KS.  The other non-BB cover was still out in the truck.  I made the purchase without confirming the other was a BB marked cover and forgot to check when going to the truck to get the non-BB cover.  Now, enough time has passed if these two covers were on an engine all this time they would have the patina to look legit as an original pair.  I would be wary.  I do know the TIGER valve covers only have the one side with the BB markings.  But I have not heard an original COBRA hollow lettered covers with no markings.  Now the fact you have two opposite sets form the same guy does support my story very well.  He may have accidentally swapped them way back when creating this anomaly.  I'd go back and get the other set to re-pair and resell the repop set.

Best of luck

Cory

984
Up For Auction / Re: COBRA Scatter Shield
« on: November 16, 2018, 02:42:22 PM »
Whether original or not, the real issue might be the alignment and squareness to the crank and block.  It would be nice if the seller could provide these number to an existing engine.  The next engine will be slightly different, but will tell you if the scatter shield was within tolerance or not.

Cory

985
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: ePay intake and carbs correct?
« on: November 13, 2018, 02:15:17 PM »
Hi Cboss70,

According to Mustangtek, they are correct for a 67GT500.

Cory

C3AE-9510-BJ, Holley list 2804, 427 holley 4160 carb Shelby carb, 63 1/2 - 65 427 Ford/Mercury and 67 428 Shelby GT-500
Sec. carb (mounts rear) for 2 x 4V  setup, No Choke butterfly, 600cfm, matching carb C3AF-9510-BK, Metering 4033
   

C3AE-9510-BK, Holley list 2805, 427 holley 4160 carbShelby carb, 63 1/2 - 65 427 Ford/Mercury, 67 428 Shelby GT-500
Primary carb (mounts front), for 2 x 4V  setup, w/Choke butterfly, 600cfm, matching carb C3AF-9510-BJ, Metering 4033

986
Wanted to Buy / Re: Need one OE early 66 leaf spring.
« on: November 13, 2018, 02:02:01 PM »
Hi TLea,

I sent you a personal message with my phone number and email.  Give me a call and we can discuss the details.

Thanks

Cory

987
Wanted to Buy / Re: Need one OE early 66 leaf spring.
« on: November 12, 2018, 05:59:28 PM »
OK they are matched set and both 345E 5.  Not gonna count the days but I think that would put them around the first to second week of December.  They have not been re-arched but I have never re arched bottom leaves before as I think unless they are really worn out they don’t need it. They are original unrestored state and nice.  I would be open to swapping them for the May 65 set

Hi TLea,  Are you thinking just the bottom leaf or the entire assemblies?  It would be much easier just the bottom leafs.  It would be an easier swamp for me to put into the May set without having to have restored and re-arched.

Cory

988
Wanted to Buy / Re: Need one OE early 66 leaf spring.
« on: November 10, 2018, 10:59:47 PM »
Hey guys. I have a pair I don’t want to sell but I might trade for different dates. I don’t remember dates off top of my head but thought they were later 65. Will check on Monday night

Hi TLea,  I am interested.  I can hardly wait until Monday.  Do you know if they have been restored and re-arched or not?

Thanks

Cory

989
Wanted to Buy / Re: Need one OE early 66 leaf spring.
« on: November 09, 2018, 11:51:01 PM »
Hi Steve and Karl,

Here you go.  I have four C4ZA-5556-S leaf springs.  They are dated coded:

No. (1)  141E5 for May 21, 1965
No. (2)  148E5 for May 29, 1965
No. (3)  179E5 for June 28, 1965
No. (4)  295E5 for October 22, 1965

Now for the puzzle you will need to solve.  Pairs No. 3 and 4 are on a San Jose k-code fastback project.  The springs have been re-arched and restored.  The car is a February build and the October 22 date coded single is a decent date code for the car.  Of the four, it is the best, but could be a little later.

The No. 3 spring is too early for the car.  I'd prefer a trade for a later date code closer to the No. 4 October date code.

The No. 3 June leaf could work for 6S281.  The No. 4 leaf could work for 6S406, but a little tight on date code.

The No. 1 and No. 2 springs are too early for the February build K-code, but are a nicely matched set.  If I had to pick between matching dates and non-matching date pairs I'd go matching.

The other issue, it is getting cold up here in the Pacific NW and swapping out springs is not going to happen real soon if a swap can be figure out.

What do you think.  Can you solve this puzzle?

If I were to end up with a match pair December 1965, restore and ready to install, I'd also be a happy camper.  Is there a four way trade  out there?

Cory





990
Wanted to Buy / Re: Wanted - C-Servo Cover
« on: November 06, 2018, 06:30:07 PM »
Hi Jason,

Can you please post a link to the Bob Mannel article on the Fairlane HiPo C4 article.  I can never seem to find.  I can find bits, but not the entire article.

Thanks

Cory

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