SAAC Forum

Hi Earl,  Your service part looks like an assembly line part with "BUDDY BAR CASTING CO." markings on the inside.  Now just need to find its mate.

Thanks for sharing

Cory

Hi Brian,

The best way to create two original sets is mix and match two originals with two repops.  I own  one of these sets and was not smart enough at the time or too trusting.  This was back in circa 1986.  I fell for the scam.  The original BB cover was on the table at the swap meet in Wichita KS.  The other non-BB cover was still out in the truck.  I made the purchase without confirming the other was a BB marked cover and forgot to check when going to the truck to get the non-BB cover.  Now, enough time has passed if these two covers were on an engine all this time they would have the patina to look legit as an original pair.  I would be wary.  I do know the TIGER valve covers only have the one side with the BB markings.  But I have not heard an original COBRA hollow lettered covers with no markings.  Now the fact you have two opposite sets form the same guy does support my story very well.  He may have accidentally swapped them way back when creating this anomaly.  I'd go back and get the other set to re-pair and resell the repop set.

Best of luck

Cory

Whether original or not, the real issue might be the alignment and squareness to the crank and block.  It would be nice if the seller could provide these number to an existing engine.  The next engine will be slightly different, but will tell you if the scatter shield was within tolerance or not.

Cory

Hi Cboss70,

According to Mustangtek, they are correct for a 67GT500.

Cory

C3AE-9510-BJ, Holley list 2804, 427 holley 4160 carb Shelby carb, 63 1/2 - 65 427 Ford/Mercury and 67 428 Shelby GT-500
Sec. carb (mounts rear) for 2 x 4V  setup, No Choke butterfly, 600cfm, matching carb C3AF-9510-BK, Metering 4033
   

C3AE-9510-BK, Holley list 2805, 427 holley 4160 carbShelby carb, 63 1/2 - 65 427 Ford/Mercury, 67 428 Shelby GT-500
Primary carb (mounts front), for 2 x 4V  setup, w/Choke butterfly, 600cfm, matching carb C3AF-9510-BJ, Metering 4033

Hi TLea,

I sent you a personal message with my phone number and email.  Give me a call and we can discuss the details.

Thanks

Cory

Quote from: TLea on November 12, 2018, 04:48:03 PM
OK they are matched set and both 345E 5.  Not gonna count the days but I think that would put them around the first to second week of December.  They have not been re-arched but I have never re arched bottom leaves before as I think unless they are really worn out they don't need it. They are original unrestored state and nice.  I would be open to swapping them for the May 65 set

Hi TLea,  Are you thinking just the bottom leaf or the entire assemblies?  It would be much easier just the bottom leafs.  It would be an easier swamp for me to put into the May set without having to have restored and re-arched.

Cory

Quote from: TLea on November 10, 2018, 05:35:02 PM
Hey guys. I have a pair I don't want to sell but I might trade for different dates. I don't remember dates off top of my head but thought they were later 65. Will check on Monday night

Hi TLea,  I am interested.  I can hardly wait until Monday.  Do you know if they have been restored and re-arched or not?

Thanks

Cory

Hi Steve and Karl,

Here you go.  I have four C4ZA-5556-S leaf springs.  They are dated coded:

No. (1)  141E5 for May 21, 1965
No. (2)  148E5 for May 29, 1965
No. (3)  179E5 for June 28, 1965
No. (4)  295E5 for October 22, 1965

Now for the puzzle you will need to solve.  Pairs No. 3 and 4 are on a San Jose k-code fastback project.  The springs have been re-arched and restored.  The car is a February build and the October 22 date coded single is a decent date code for the car.  Of the four, it is the best, but could be a little later.

The No. 3 spring is too early for the car.  I'd prefer a trade for a later date code closer to the No. 4 October date code.

The No. 3 June leaf could work for 6S281.  The No. 4 leaf could work for 6S406, but a little tight on date code.

The No. 1 and No. 2 springs are too early for the February build K-code, but are a nicely matched set.  If I had to pick between matching dates and non-matching date pairs I'd go matching.

The other issue, it is getting cold up here in the Pacific NW and swapping out springs is not going to happen real soon if a swap can be figure out.

What do you think.  Can you solve this puzzle?

If I were to end up with a match pair December 1965, restore and ready to install, I'd also be a happy camper.  Is there a four way trade  out there?

Cory

Hi Jason,

Can you please post a link to the Bob Mannel article on the Fairlane HiPo C4 article.  I can never seem to find.  I can find bits, but not the entire article.

Thanks

Cory

Quote from: gt350hr on November 06, 2018, 01:55:13 PM
  Bringing up the valve body question reminds me of a funny story that leads to info on the original valve bodies. Forty years ago I had a run on local GT350 ( automatic) owners wanting me to install shift kits in their cars. I bought a kit and saw all the same color springs already in the valve body. So I went ahead and replaced them plus I added a couple of turns to the screw in modular adjuster screw. Everyone was happy. That was when I discovered  modern ''green dot shift kits" are simply the springs , valve , and transfer passage modifications done to an original PCW BA hi po trans. Gil Younger ( Mr TransGo) bought the parts from Ford ( not normally serviced parts) because he was considered a rebuilder and was able to. The kit was a help to a non hi po C4 but a waste of time for a true hi po C4. So that is how a person can replicate the valve body. To be a total deception a person would have to add the "notch" and the ID tag. The toughest part is modifying the governor ( lighter). It's too bad CPC didn't spend the extra $s to use the Ford logo on their C servos. I have tested them back to back and they perform the same as an original.
     Randy

Hi Randy,  A good machine shop can take a LoPo governor counter weight and remove materiel identical  to what Ford did.  I have a buddy that had a few recently made.  Bob Mannel has a drawing defining the modifications in one of his HiPo C4 articles.

Cory

Looks like it has a 68 Shelby Mustang console.

Cory

I like:  "Invested (some large some of money) and asking less."  Sounds like a poor investment and possible a good deal for someone.

I also don't like when no price is posted.  Makes me want to call just to ask them the price and then thank them.  But I refrain.

Cory

Hi Jason,

You best bet is to keep an eye out for a 1966 F100/F250 with a 300 CID and automatic transmission.  If it has not been messed with it will have the cover and matching piston you want to find.  A truck with the 240 CID with automatic will not have the cover.  Most of the trucks are standard transmission.  So it will not be easy to find, but if you are patient and keep an eye out, you can find.  You might even have to check a few wrecking yards.  It can be done.

Best of luck

Cory

Hi all,

Does anyone have a very nice single Goodyear EAGLE ST P235/60R14 that they are willing to sell?  They have been discontinued for sometime.

Thank you

Cory

Hi Greg,

The next best thing to a matching engine or other drive train parts is to find equivalent parts that have the same form and appropriate dates codes to the car.  You will want to understand the availability of these parts and their respective cost.  You should do your home work on difficulty of finding the correct parts.  Some parts could be relative common and other impossible to find.  For example, on the 66 HiPo 289, non-GT350, the four barrel intake is pretty common to find and not that expensive.  Finding the right date code may take little while, but can be done.  This intake is common the an "A" code car.  Now try to find the matching carb C6-ZFF for a 66 automatic K-code.  This carb is very difficult to find and expensive once you do find.  So my advise is learn what parts you will need to find and have an idea on difficulty and price before taking the plunge.  Saving another SAI product is always a good thing.  You just need to understand what you are getting into and enjoy the journey.

Best of luck

Cory