News:

SAAC Member Badges are NOW available. Make your request through saac.memberlodge.com to validate membership.

Main Menu
Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - cboss70

#106
I appreciate all the posts (and the pictures). I learned which one was my 67GT500's, The fact my 70 Boss 302 used the same style as the 67-70's, and the last two in my picture were for a BB/250 69/70 when I started the discussion thinking they were for my Boss 302.  Thanks Everyone.   
#107
Based on the pictures you posted to the old posting in the Lounge it appears that the cross member I show first in the group photo painted black and with a paper tag attached is my 67FE cross member. It has the same cut out's as yours below where it mounts to the unibody and was taller than my others. Thanks for the validation and the pictures.
#108
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Cross Member ID Help Needed
April 08, 2020, 11:32:44 AM
I raised this question in the Lounge area in the past but didn't have pictures and figured it may be better suited in the 67 section. I need help identifying which one was my correct 67 GT500 4spd brace visually (can't find any numbers saying 390 etc.).  I removed some from cars this winter to clean and got them mixed up.

Number one is the black one on top and number 6 is the rusty elongated slot one on the opposite end. Number one is taller than 2,3 or 4 and the cutout on the right is simply rounded like the opposite side.  Number 2, 3 and 4 seem to be the same, have the pronounced cut-out on the right side but oddly number 4 has that half inch wide flat area on each side that seems wider then the other three and has that one small pointy area.
Number 5 and 6 I assume are for my 69 gt350 AT car and 70 Boss 302 which I believe are the same as regular cars? (with the exception of the C6 unique one).

I promise to label things better next time!
#109
Thanks for the pictures! So the last two of the silver one with the shorter bolt hole slots in the middle is the small block version and the unrestored one in the second picture that has the longer slots is the 390/428 4spd version and is the bigger one in the first picture correct?
#110
The Lounge / Re: CJ Pony exits Mustang parts
April 01, 2020, 02:38:17 PM
I was bummed out after seeing the video and then read the very end and saw it was a joke. I'm glad another mustang source didn't bite the dust.
#111
I have a number of mustang variations from 65-70 and over the winter I got a little ahead of myself removing and cleaning parts. I now have a bunch of cross members that I can't remember which car they go to! The 65/66 and later c6 versions are easy but I'm not sure how to identify visually the 67 through 70 versions between big block and small.  The parts I have are old originals and I could NOT find legible stampings on them where I would go by marking or part numbers. Maybe its the 67/68 don't have oblong slots in the center (round holes) and the big blocks are taller and beefier? The 69/70 had oblong slots in the center but were all the same regardless of model?

I'm hoping someone would be willing to post a picture of each side by side so I can figure this out. Specifically I want to verify which one is my 67 Shelby GT500 version, my 1968 GT302, my 69 GT350 and my 70 Boss 302.   I'm aware it wasn't the brightest thing to do and mix parts and that extends to my ability to post pictures here or I would try that.  If someone has examples they can post great if not maybe I can line up what I have take a picture and email it directly to someone who would be willing to post it in this thread  :)  Thanks for your guidance.
#112
Chris at Mustangs Unlimited has a facebook posting selling the remainder of their inventory for 80K. Last time I looked it there wasn't much worth having.
#113
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Barn Find 69
February 12, 2020, 04:11:45 PM
I love barn finds and project cars- been tempted recently to find a 68 GT350/500 big project myself. Over the last year I've seen disassembled to running 69/70's that were savable from 25-45k (including that most recent one at capecodmustang that's been for sale for awhile). I've only run across one GT500 project within the past year or so and it was on craigslist in the North East and facebook (some may remember that maroon one). It had lots of rust and a non original motor but was complete for I believe 25k. I spoke to him and I believe he paid under 20k and was flipping it (I think both numbers on the car were lower than I've seen in awhile). If I was forced to put a number out there for a non-original motor car that was otherwise complete but needed a full resto including unibody and body rust I'd say it would probably bring in the 30's. You would have way more into it than its worth if you did a full blown restoration but I also know people are willing to pay up on projects because they cant make the financial leap to a finished car. If you can afford what they want and believe you can restore it go for it!
#114
Thank you both and the picture was great. I went home and just like the picture, my 67 one was a little shorter near that bend just like the picture and the 69/70 matched the other one in the picture. In fact the one I have with the straight ends had that section even a little longer so who knows what that is. Thanks again for the clarification-I better stick them back on the cars before I mix them up again!
#115
That's interesting- any unique things I should look for? Anyone have pictures of a 67 GT500 bar so I can look for differences between the two? My Shelby has the original drums on it etc so I'm thinking the sway bar was never removed either and is correct but then maybe my 70Boss one is not.
#116
For the 67GT500 versus 70B I pulled off the two round ended ones are 15/16. Make sense the are the same?

The spare one with the squared of ends looked the same as the two others it could I could be wrong, I didn't measure it and its possible that its 1" I'd have to measure when I get home.  Did any of the 67-70 mustang's come from the factory with the squared off ends?
#117
I recently pulled a few parts to repaint in my winter boredom and noticed the sway bars seem to have the same diameter and "bend".  I have one from my 1967 GT500, one that came off my 70 Boss.  I always assumed they would be different but with a quick visual they look the same- are they?   Those two have round holes for the end link mount and a third bar I have looks the same but is squared off after the end link mount hole.  Are the 67GT500 and 70 Boss the same?  Any idea what the third one was from (same diameter, curves but end of bar is straight versus rounded like the other two)??  Thanks for your thoughts.
#118
Up For Auction / Re: Mecum Kissimmee Auction - Today
January 10, 2020, 02:52:01 PM
Seems like some decent prices for Mustangs today.   K-codes bringing some good money let alone the Bullitt at 3.4m plus comm.
#119
I am in the process of restoring individual parts for a 67BB 4spd, 69SB AT and a 70 Boss 4spd. I have a number of cross members with slight differences and am not sure what goes to what. If you look at eB a lot of ad's say everything fits 67-70 so that lessens my trust in the sellers as a whole.  I have a few versions, 1. One looks like a standard 67-70 contours but has two maybe 1/4 holes drilled through the center lip
2. Have others with no little holes as above
3. A couple where one side of the cutout goes in further on one side (mounting bolt to body mounting cut out area)  and the transmission mount slots in the center are more elongated than on 1 and 2
4. The last one has two frame mounting holes on one side and one on the other- probably fmx/c6 69/70.

I'm more familiar with the 65/66 which are basic but these have me second guessing myself. Can someone shed light on the "visual" differences between the year and applications? 
#120
I have a 67 and after years of different types of abuse I removed what little dried out padding was left from my original roll bar (wasn't savable).  So now I'm left with the dilemma should I
1) Leave the bar bare and paint it black so it and its mounting welds are original to the car
2) Put a few layers of the liquid rubber (plasti-dip) on it
3) Buy a repo bar and graft its rubber on it (knowing the repro's are 68 style so would not be exact)
4) Just buy an original with the rubber intact and in good shape and have it welded in and toss the old bar (may not end up with a factory look weld/install)

The car is in driver shape- cruise night car not a show car.   I would personally narrow it down to option 1 or 4.  Thoughts on 1-4??