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Messages - cboss70

#76
Thanks. Maybe I'll just drive down Thursday night and start fresh on Friday.
#77
I am going to spring Carlisle for the first time and can only go on Friday 4/23 or Saturday 4/24. Is there a better day to go which would have the most vendors? I know the longer you wait to go some parts may disappear. I don't need anything special just trying to time when the most stuff would be there from a swap meet perspective (don't car about the auction etc.). If you know the meet and have thoughts on it let me know. Thanks!
#78
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Fuel line variations?
March 16, 2021, 11:19:42 AM
I see 1967 gas line listings for a early and late two piece 5/16 lines,  one piece versions and a 3/8 two piece version.  What is the proper one for a stock late GT500? Thanks!
#79
I have an April built 69 and if I remember correctly the date codes seemed correct but there was no VIN stamping on the engine - matching the Shelby # or otherwise. The previous owner believed it may have not been stamped in error.  I know I've seen earlier original cars with extra VIN's, No VIN's and, mixed VIN's. I've seen 69/70 cars with partial VIN's on shock towers (maybe plant code and sequential number). However, it sounds like from these posts that its unlikely a 69/70 Shelby or Mustang got out the door without the VIN on the engine?  If that's the case I'll have to try and get to it again and relook but I'm pretty sure there's nothing at all.  Great topic, thanks.
#80
By 1970 I know there were rosette ones used on Mustangs depending on date and where the car was made. Not sure if that started in 1969 or any of the details for that matter!
#81
Perfect- thanks for the responses.
#82
I just had my 67 booster rebuilt and am putting new lines in etc. I don't have the sensor part that goes into the middle top of the distribution block. Does anyone know of suppliers who sell them and what they are called?   Thanks.
#83
More Details:
If it helps , things that are already plugged in/connected are:
headlamp switch
radio speaker
heater switch and box
the main gauge cluster minus the tach
Ignition switch
steering column
brake light switch identified
washer pump and high beam switch
heater blower motor
flashers
rear harness
engine compartment headlight harness
wiper motor
underdash curtesy lights and door ajar switches

NOT Hooked back up because I can't tell where to do it:
Tach
under dash gauge pod
all the wires in the above pictures

Not hooked up because I just haven't done it yet;
Ammeter wires from engine compartment
#84
When I got my late 67 the previous owner took parts off for a refresh, never labeled anything, and then let it sit for decades before coming to me. I'm trying to make sense of a few wires and my old wiring diagram isn't helping me (I'm sure its me not the diagram!).  I am hoping someone can tell me what these purplish wires are for, the single thicker pink one and the red/yellow with red/green that go into a single plug are for. 

Additionally, the back of my cluster has a black and red wire for the tach. I have a tach harness but have no idea where and how the two connect.

If anyone has pictures or can fill in the gaps I'd appreciate it.  Thanks.
#85
I own all fords and have for many years. I find it interesting that everyone compares the new corvette to the GT. I look at things from a price point perspective and comparing the corvette to the GT is a complement to it but financially its like comparing a Ford Focus to a Corvette. To me I compare the C8 to the Mustang GT350 because they seem to sell in the same price zone. I always wanted to get a new GT350 but could never convince myself that they were special/exciting enough to drop 65-75k for a new one. On the other hand, the C8 does look and sound special enough were it is tempting. In the end I hope I never get silly enough and go get either new- my old cars make me just as happy and don't depreciate as much (at least not yet).
#86
It looks like may of you like and use the RobbMC mini-starters.  Before ordering one for my 428 4spd is this the correct one- the one you guys have purchased? Ford Gen II Mini-Starter – PN 3001.

On a side note, it seems like all the stock replacement ones on Summit or Napa are for small blocks or big blocks with automatic transmissions - is the big block 4spd starter unique to itself? If I could get the correct one (a part number) and it would work with JBA headers I'd try that versus spending fives times more money on the RobbMC one.
#87
Great video- love to see more like that with preservation approaches. I'd be interested in knowing what the detailer was using on the fender to remove and neutralize the rust in the stone chips but not damage the paint while doing it.  I've see people use Phosphoric acid (stronger but maybe leaves a residue) or Citric Acid (less strong) to neutralize and prep rust but I'd be worried about the paint. 
#88
ya, my state would not approve of a VIN stamping that looked like that. If there isn't a nicer factory stamping hidden under one of the fenders then I'd probably pass (and still would probably pass based on the visible one being in plain sight)
#89
Thanks for all the feedback. I do think I'd be happier with radials and with it being in nice driver condition I may as well make it one with radials. Now I have to go look at pictures and decide to have the white letters exposed or go black wall- we will see!
#90
I may have just found the answer to my own question on the Kelsey site- it looks like small letter speedways came on 67's and large letter ones on the 68"s.