SAAC Forum

Thanks. I see they say its a Speedway 350 and fits 67/68 Shelby's but only came on 68's.  These do look great - I'm now wondering what people are using for 67's so I can consider the right look for 67.

Its time for new tires for my 67 and I have seen many people using these Goodyears versus modern looking Radial TA's or black walls. I haven't decided what to get because I wanted to see where these tires are available and the cost.  If there are current sources you know of let me know.  Thanks.

I was going to send mine to get refurbished. I'm not 100% which one of the three I have was off my 67 GT500. Is there a part number or anything else I can use to distinguish it from a regular mustang one (if there is a difference in the first place).

That's great thanks for the feedback. I don't want to redo it twice so at least now I have a plan.

I am going through my brakes and need a new booster. If anyone know a source for the new look alike Midland replacement boosters please PM me. Also, I guess as an option I saw on Rock Auto they have a relationship with someone who will rebuilt my old one for around $240.  If anyone has a recommendation for an alternative rebuilder let me know (not sure what I'd get out of a rockauto rebuild!).  Thanks.

It's wild that the top half burned and melted but the lower half didn't. The right person could save it- bummer about the shock towers. Based on the look of the gauge cluster I wonder of the VIN tag melted away.

Thanks for the great info and I must be loosing it because it never even crossed my mind I could repair mine - which is something I could do.  Thanks for the feedback and education.

Hello, My 1967 Shelby GT500 clutch fork has a hole worn through it from the rod from the z-bar (past owners handy work from many years ago). I was going to buy a new one and CJ has a 65-68 fork (looks like ones I've seen on small blocks) but it does not say big block or small- are they all the same?  If not the same is there a good source for them someone can point me towards?  Thanks.

I am in the market for a clutch kit for my GT500 and prefer to buy a kit so I get the clutch pieces, pilot bushing, throw out bearing etc. and don't have to figure out individual parts to buy.  If I go to Summit there are tons of choices and it seems like even narrowing down by model and engine some may not work.  I'm just looking for a basic/ stock style street set-up for a car that probably won't see many miles and is a driver not a show car.  If anyone can recommend a brand and specific part number I'd appreciate it.

Rattle can primer is porous so surface rust can happen underneath- certainly wet sanding it will cause a mess. First step with clean metal is to SEAL it with a two part primer and if you started with spray cans and its sat you may want to consider restriping it and then sealing right away. 

Spray can primer would not be correct but depending on what you are doing it can hold up for many years if surface prep was done right and it was top coated right away to avoid flash rust (because again the primer is porous).

Most modern paint products are made to be used with their other paint/primer products in that family.  Many will work great with other brands but there no guarantee. If that needs to happen try testing things on something that doesn't matter if the paint lifts.  I've seen many people use their favorite primer product and then just use a paint sealer right before the paint coats to ensure good adhesion, it smooths out the base, and seals out all the base materials you used.  Your body shop or a local automotive paint supplier will be able to give you specifics and recommend products that meet your needs.

I could be wrong and don't profess to be an expert but I seem to recall 1990's repro fenders having that symbol

I have a 1970 Boss 302 and have what I believe is the original tach harness (Is the one with the white plug going into gauge cluster shown).  I have been repairing some hacked spots but have two wires that are throwing me off.  Both are on the section that goes to the engine compartment to the starter solenoid- they are the yellow wire and a red wire that go back towards the main harness but both are cut and seemingly go nowhere ( I don't have any non connected wires to hook them to).  I looked on two spare 1970 harnesses from a non tach car (shown as the black plug that goes into gauge cluster) and on those harnesses the yellow and red wire mentioned above go into the black plug that goes into the gauge cluster. The clear plug does not have those wires. The wires are definitely different colors going into the two different plugs. I assume that may be because of the tach but now I have two wires to nowhere and a white gauge plug that looks like it never had them.   The wiring diagrams I have doesn't show the differences. I'm at a loss and don't want to install my metal dash assembly until I get the harness squared away.   I know I'm grasping here but I'm hoping someone has some ideas.

The diagrams were helpful to see what was meant by studs- I will now have to check my nose since it seems from the posts above mine would have upper studs. I have 2780which looks to have been produced 5/29/67.  I did look at my original upper grill and the mounting tabs seem to line up with the holes for riveting. I also never saw that 67assembly manual in the catalogs before and will definitely order one.  Thanks

Ok so it seems like the outer lip bolts go through the back side of the fenders and into the clips on the nose and its pretty straight forward. 

Then comes the center of the nose- there are holes in the nose and it looks like the holes are where it attaches to the center brace. I've seen places selling rivet's to attach the nose but I have a bag of screw type bolts with nuts that were marked for nose attachment so any pictures or clarification on what to use would be helpful.

And finally does any sealant go between the nose and fenders or are they simply bolted up fiberglass to metal.   Thanks.

Hello Everyone,
When I got my late 67 the nose wasn't attached. I want to mount it now and am not sure how it mounts to the fenders or the brackets. It seems like the areas that mount to the fenders are with clips? But from where and which direction would the bolts go?  Are the areas that mount to the brackets- screwed in, riveted, bolts (when/where)?  Any diagrams or pictures you can post would be appreciated as the one I posted below is all I could find on the internet showing the nose and I don't know if its correct. Thanks in advance for your help.