SAAC Forum

The tagedge shape should have a flat area on both ends where the metal ribbon was run through the impression die then each individual tag would be snapped off. This was likely the origin of corrosion growth across the tag if anywhere. Making the dies to create a faithful tag shape with the fatigue tear away areas would be relatively easy, IMHO. The impression dies are just not something I could do in my simple shop.

For the first 50 or so 66 chasses delivered (i.e. 253-310), what do we know of the build dates on the ID tags on those AUTOMATIC transmissions?  Does anyone have a tag photo from one of these transmissions, or what was stamped on one???

Is anyone aware of someone who has the trans tunnel snubbler bounce plate that is opposite of the 9 inch snubber for 65-6 still in stock?

Coumt me in for a complete set as 296 did not take 115outside a trailer it was in very well.

My stepdaughter sent my cherished Creative Masters' GT350 cascading down a flight of stairs... There was something about paying near the price to replace pieces compred to buying anew that challenged my sensibilities. I retain the vacuum cleaner bags searching for pieces to this day, 25 years later... guess I should give it up and give the model a patina look... much like your jack stand idea.

Where did you find the 1:43rds of this car?

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Chopped Mustang 
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I like it!

I wanted one soooooo badly.....

http://ebay.us/Mm17nS?cmpnId=5338273189 Bidding opened at $99.99

In full disclosure it's mine; taken out of my car as itis incorrect (naturally). "OEM Paxton Supercharger 2 1/8" Fuel Pressure Gauge 0-15# circa late 70s. Condition is "Used".-- 2 ⅛" PAXTON fuel pressure gauge, 0-15 psi, of unknown vintage (but older than 37 years of known ownership) taken out of a '66 GT350 it was incorrect for.  Displays the three red 'V' sparrows after 'PAXTON'.  Face is bright and defect free.  Reads accurately; S-W 240A fuel pump was bench tested for 5 psi, an under-hood gauge read 5 psi, and this gauge read 5 psi when all were installed together in the car. The needle rests a needle-width above zero with no pressure applied.  The only fault I can see is found under a good light at the 3 o'clock position along a 12 mm arc, about 0.5 mm wide. There is a bubble in the original paint and some veining growing along the edge (see photo).  On the back, there is some discoloration of the thin nickel(?) plating from handling.  If you stick the port up your nose it smells of gas(oline).  If your head is up your bumm, you'll smell gas as well.  It has been always installed old-school with a thin copper pipette line directly to a carburetor or fuel line.  THERE IS NO PROVISION FOR AN INTERNAL LIGHT SOURCE IN THIS GAUGE!!! "

I saw one of these in San Antonio, at Lackland AFB. For years, they thought I was on crack. A pretty car for a coupe in a greenish color.

I could not use it with my aluminum covers, and still perform regular valve adjustments... but ... dayum it was cool!!!

A similar car was sent to a shop in the Philippines for restorations. I wonder what happened to it?

Leprosy

Well, the subject pretty much sums up my request. I have not forwarded the question to Craig Conley yet, hoping to capture responses here-in. Craig's kit uses a mechanical pump that equalizes one side of the operation or the other, so I was wondering whether similar pumps were used in the 60s, and what they looked like.  I sure hope they were not a chromed up tart of one sort or another.

The ORIGINAL Mach 1... check out the last photo