SAAC Forum

Used to collect 50's / 60 's / early 70's era small race boats / hydroplanes and Mercury outboard race motors.  Fun hobby and lots of fun to run occasionally at our lake house.  Sold off the collection a few years ago.

I'm the 3rd owner of 6S1575 - since 1986.

The diameter of my underride mount nuts is 15/16 ths.  Not sure of the thread.  I believe mine are original, but as third owner, I cannot be certain.

That is one gorgeous vehicle - I may have to buy more lottery tickets in advance of this. 

Awesome - That would have been a blast !!!

https://www.hagerty.com/media/news/mustang-stampedes-to-800-hp-with-official-ford-supercharger-kit/?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=MED_UN_NA_EML_UN_UN_DailyDriver_Wednesday&hashed_email=fdb456c44c4ce6b1fc045174310048189f73c408c06b400ab5276ae1c03273df&dtm_em=fdb456c44c4ce6b1fc045174310048189f73c408c06b400ab5276ae1c03273df

Had the same experience yesterday with a new member as of mid September.  Be careful out there !

Power goes through the starter solenoid then to the starter.  If the starter is done, you should still hear a click at the solenoid when you turn the key.  Bad solenoid?  Bad key switch? 

Just checked and BFG T/A's in 14 or 15" 60 or 70 series appear to still be available here in the great white north.

correcting subject line to "hex" bolt

I recently realized the bolt on the latch used to open / close the rear trap door on my 66 GT 350 is incorrect.  Any chance anyone has a good used one or knows where I could find a correct replacement?  I guess I could buy a used or correct repro replacement complete latch as a 2nd option.  For reference, following is a link to the replacement latch offered by Virginia Classic Mustang.  It appears the same latch may have been used from 65 - 68.  https://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-68-FASTBACK-REAR-TRAP-DOOR-LATCH-P3082.aspx
Thanks, John

OK, thanks for the replies.  Never thought about it before and not even sure which is in my water pump.  A friend with a K code in his hot rod recently said that he was told by his engine builder when he rebuilt his 289 about 10 years ago, that he would be better off with a standard impeller vs hipo for "normal" use.  If I ever have to repair my water pump, I'll keep that in mind. 

I know the 289 hipos had a 6 vane impeller vs the standard 8 vane - supposedly to reduce cavitation at high rpms from some info I've read.  Are there other advantages of using the hipo impeller?  For normal street use with only occasional high rpm blasts, if you are not concerned with being "correct", are you better off running a standard impeller vs hipo for good cooling?  I've done some searches and cannot find any info on when you might be better off with one vs the other.   

Randy added a wealth of information to this forum and he was very helpful to me personally when I contacted a few times with questions in years past.  A high quality car guy for sure !  RIP Randy.   

I've always used these in 6S1575 and they have worked great.