SAAC Forum

Pretty sure it went for $73K + buyers fee.

No mention in the write ups of original drive train or how much of the sheet metal was original in those two 66's.  You would think those things would have been mentioned if either was substantially original, so maybe that held those back. 

Thanks very much for the detailed reply.  As mentioned in my original post, I have no need for a set of these.  It was just interesting to me that it appeared that you could buy supposedly exact repro hp main caps for a fraction of the price that used ones were going for, yet the original sets of used hp main caps are still in high demand and still escalating in price.  I was just curious as to why - and thanks to you and Jim, I now have some very good answers.  That's what I love about this forum - the knowledge you guys have and are willing to share to educate the rest of us on topics like this. 

Interesting - I knew that line boring would be required for new caps or caps from another block, but have never heard that some blocks may not be capable of that procedure.  What conditions or issues would the block have to have to for that to be the case? 

Good point Jim, but assuming you have or can find a good rear main, still sounds like a pretty good deal.  Is that and originality the only considerations for potentially buying and using these? 

Not that I need any - but just wondering and always wanting to learn from experienced people on this forum, given the significant increase in the cost of original hipo main caps, are the reproductions available for $500 worth considering for anyone needing a set?  I know many just want all original components full stop, but other than that, is there any reason someone should not consider these supposedly exact reproductions?   

Mine is either a 7 or an 8.  The post with the manufacturers stamp has markings that are illegible.

Thanks for looking and the replies.  I found some pictures of what are supposedly original 70 Mach 1 rear sway bars, and they are definitely different as well.  Looks like this was just an OTC add on that the O/O installed at some point.

Should have also said the bar is 3/4" diameter. 

I just looked it over closely and found the following numbers stamped on the end links in case this helps solve the puzzle:  115TRW001 on one and 111TRW005 on the other side.  No markings that I can see on the bar itself. 

Was cleaning out the basement the other day and came upon the rear sway bar that the original owner installed on 6S1575 some time before he sold it in '71. I removed it many years ago as I knew it was not stock to my car.   I understand rear sway bars came standard on 69 / 70 boss cars and at least some 70 Mach 1's.  Not sure about other late 60's Mustangs.  The one I have looks OE quality and is in great shape but I don't know if it was a ford part from one of those previously mentioned cars, whether it was a Ford over the counter add on, or whether it a kit he bought from wherever.  I will try to include a picture of it here.  If anyone can identify if it is in fact an OE part and if so, what it was made to be on, that would be appreciated.   Thanks, John

I used Plasti-Kote orange several years ago to refinish mine and I was very happy with the result.   Pretty sure someone on this forum said it was a near perfect rattle can match at the time. 

Rear springs are original / not re-arched and I've also used this size tire with a new / lowered front & rear suspension kit that was on the car for a while.  Never had a rubbing issue with either setup. 

I've never had a tire rub with the 215's irrespective of load and bumps in the road, although it's not often I have people in the back seat. 

I've been running 215/60/R14 BFG's all round for many years and they fit and work very well for my use as an occasional driver.