SAAC Forum

Quote from: 557 on February 11, 2023, 11:45:29 AM
Any idea what "fair market value"would be on something like that?

Well, at this point the auction is over $50K. Apparently it hasn't reached "market" value yet. Unfortunately, for something so rare (and highly desirable) there is no "fair" in the equation. Something is worth what you can get out of it at the time of sale.

I'm having a hard time understanding how your crank was damaged in the rear seal area and to the degree (chipped?) that you have described. Was it rolling around the shop prior to installation? Was it accidentally dropped? If either scenario is likely, there could be other damage that the crank might have (bent or cracks?).

In any event, my opinion would be to replace your crank. Having said that, I realize that HiPo cranks are not laying around waiting to be easily purchased. I would search the market for a replacement before panicking into "fixing" your original. If you can't find a replacement, then you could explore repair options to your crank.

My $0.02 worth.

Frank

Quote from: crossboss on September 28, 2022, 01:02:21 PM

Quote from: FL SAAC on September 28, 2022, 07:45:37 AM
LMAO that is funeeee!

Just put up my (C8s are faster) please stand by sign

Tony always has to inject more crap in all the threads he posts...


+1

Quote from: Royce Peterson on September 19, 2022, 11:25:01 AM

Nope
Govt takes its taxes in Cali it's about 50 cents plus, Texas same gas tax is around 20 cents or so.
The culprits are the service station owners that in recent years have made up to and over one dollar of profit per gallon.

You are drinking some strange Kool Aid. You are quoting sleepy Joe - what a dumb F***K he is.
[/quote]

+1  Those "mom and pop" convenience store owners are just rolling in the money that they are scalping from the gas prices—NOT!

Frank

Jeff and Royce, thank you for your evaluations and input. I figured that I could get constructive feedback from fellow members.

Frank

During my internet travels, I accidentally ran across a corrosion inhibiter called Corrosion X. These products come in several forms (automotive, aviation, general lubricant/penetrating, etc.). According to their literature their products supersede "sliced bread" as being the neatest thing on the market.

https://www.corrosionx.com/collections/corrosion-prevention-control/products/corrosionx

Among the attributes that caught my eye about these products is that they do NOT contain waxes or silicones. I, like most everyone on this site, use Boeshield T-9 for corrosion prevention. It contains paraffin. Many products like WD-40 contain silicone.

My thinking is that Corrosion X could be a spray coating used in place of Boeshield and especially for use on cast aluminum intake manifolds/valve covers, etc. where visual preservation of the original surface finish is paramount without the "shine" or wet look. They also claim that their products can be used in high temperature applications.

I was wondering if anyone has tried Corrosion X products and, if so, what their observations have been? It just might be a better "mouse trap"(?).

Frank

Quote from: crossboss on August 19, 2022, 04:46:49 PM
Thanks guys for the input...
Looks like Ford can keep it. Since this will go on my daily beater, Fram it is...for half the cost.

Watch this video BEFORE you buy a Fram!

Frank

This whole scenario is an exercise of dumb compounded by dumber. Wimpy, undersized/outdated brakes, sticking throttle, attenuating speed by riding the brakes, not pulling over when the smell of burning brakes was detected. What could possibly go wrong(?)! Too much time/money was spent making the car mean and shiny.

I applaud the producers for airing this video. It demonstrated some of what "could" go wrong. I'm glad that no one was seriously hurt.

Frank   

Quote from: Skidado on June 18, 2022, 09:38:00 AM
I don't think the drum is cracked as it 'rings' true if I tap it with a hammer. I did think about a bent axle flange but I haven't bashed it against a kerb or similar.

I've just had the axle bearings replaced which in theory might have caused a bend in the flange but the snatching brake moved with the drum when I swapped sides of the car.

If during the axle bearing replacement (or any time that the drum was removed from the axle), the drum was "pried" off between the backing plate and the inside edge of the drum, it is conceivable that the drum face plate could have been bent. I've had experience of sticking drums because the inner diameter of the bore on the drum face plate can dig into the locating boss on the axle flange causing the drum to require "persuasion" to be removed.

Affixing the drum to a brake lathe and rotating it (and/or indicating in the inner drum face) should tell the tale. As Bob has stated, turning the drum (if there is enough material left) can cure the symptoms of your problem.

Frank   

Quote from: Mike_Senar on June 06, 2022, 11:11:41 AM
O.K.,
  Is there a thickness measurement I can have to compare?   I just picked one up this weekend with a load of parts and after doing some inquiring I came to realize there was some repro ones made a lot of years ago.   I did not know this until I received the part and checked.       So, if there is a thickness difference between the two to tell them apart,  I would like to know what the real ones measure (if that is possible to know).   This one looks really spot on to me!
                                                                                     Mike

Mike, I measured the thickness of my KNOWN original '66 Export Brace (equally spaced pattern) and it is 0.130 inches. I suppose that there could be a little paint thickness involved but, when measured in four different locations, was consistent 0.130 inches.

As to whether or not the '66 is different than the '65, I don't know. (Bob will I'm sure)

I hope this helps.

Frank

Quote from: Drew Pojedinec on June 01, 2022, 11:58:50 AM
No expert here Mr Steve.
Just fortunate to have worked on 1,000+ of these. Figured I'd share what info I have learned.

You obviously learned a bunch! Like Steve said, sharing your acquired knowledge is priceless.

Thanks again!

I think that you will like addressing your "personal interests" better than the day job. I know that it was the best career move that I made.

Best of luck!

Frank

You're all set. I glad I could help/

Frank

Cory, I'll try to explain it without the benefit of pictures or diagrams. So bear with me.

The back face of the thrust plate rubs on the face of the cam-thus limiting its travel forward. Assume that the thrust plate is .250" thick. Also assume that the protruding hub on the sprocket (rear side) measures .255" from the SPROCKET thrust face to the aft end face of the sprocket. When all components are assembled, the aft sprocket face butts up against the forward face of the cam. In THEORY, there should be a total of .005" movement (or "clearance") that the cam/sprocket assembly can move forward and aft. If there were a .252" thick thrust plate installed, that total movement would be .003. If a .254" thick thrust plate were installed, the total movement would be .001". In other words, if the thrust plate thickness was subtracted from the sprocket hub thickness, you will get the theoretical "clearance" between the forward face of the thrust plate and the thrust face of the sprocket, i.e. .255" - .250" =.005".

Remember, all of the above is theoretical. ACTUAL measurements (as I outlined in my first post) can vary.

Frank again.

Cory, the reason for more-than-one thrust plate thickness is to establish thrust end play of the cam/thrust plate/sprocket assembly when installed in the engine. The factory manual states that the end play should be between .001-.007". The varying thrust plate thickness's are utilized to accommodate the manufacturing tolerances of the protruding hub length on the cam sprocket. Determining which sprocket is correct for a particular engine is done empirically by starting off with the thinest trust plate (.250) and assembling the cam/thrust plate/sprocket in the engine. Measure the end play (by prying the assembly forward axially) with a feeler gauge. If it is within specification, your done. If it exceeded the factory spec., select a thicker thrust to establish the recommended clearance.

I hope this answers your question.

Frank