SAAC Forum

 Thanks  . so all 68 `s had the same tag other than a J04 & Jo5  Thanks for all the info .

Quote from: Coralsnake on September 19, 2021, 03:25:29 PM
It says either your tag (or entire engine) is not correct if you have a 1968 Shelby.

Shelbys used the "405 J04" or "405 J05" Engine code

The second line is a code for the motor and that code belongs to a 428 Super Cobra Jet engine.

Whats J04 & J05 mean

Quote from: 430dragpack on September 19, 2021, 04:01:40 PM

Isn't "7D" the date code, which would be April '67??  That wouldn't be an SCJ date.

Not sure if it is &D or 70 ?

 
Anyone know what the aluminum tag under the coil  tells us  for example 428- B - 7D  second line ,424-B    ?

 Thanks for all your help ,much appreciated.

 This is the one I`am speaking of.

   
   Looking for some help on this walnut shift knob with a cobra snake on it. A guy is bugging me about selling it to him but I have no Idea what its worth. I do know its on page two of the ` 60 s Shelby catalogue.

Quote from: 6s1640 on December 29, 2020, 11:46:16 PM
Hi Shelby001,

Can we assume you are referring to the solid letter versions?  You did not say, but might be implied.  The open letter covers are not typically seen as over the counter.

I believe a forum member sold a used set recently for around $250, non fanged.  There is a NOS set on auction, PCV hole is post fang, pre-keyhole for $600.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1970-Ford-Mustang-GT350-289-302-351W-Cobra-Valve-Covers-Pair-NOS/324342935064?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225074%26meid%3D33faf80c095b418493752ef8579cc574%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D164456455027%26itm%3D324342935064%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLCvipPairwiseWebWithBBEV2bDemotion%26brand%3DFord&_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985

There is a used set, PCV key hole for $349 and the same sytle NOS for $325, both did not sell.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1967-1968-1969-1970-Shelby-Mustang-ORIGINAL-NOS-039-COBRA-039-VALVE-COVERS-/154236688293?hash=item23e93917a5%3Ag%3APfMAAOSwWZlfxE%7EX&vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=O%252FC7gGkEYbBmKnrBlfAHZM8LWOs%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

A matching PCV hole fanged set sold for $295.  Missing oil fill side.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1970-Ford-Mustang-GT350-289-302-351W-Cobra-Valve-Covers-Pair-/324296450185?hash=item4b81932089%3Ag%3AfvsAAOSwzqJfYShF&vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=O%252FC7gGkEYbBmKnrBlfAHZM8LWOs%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

As S2MS says, which version can make a difference, but patients can get you an assembly line version for less money than a later style NOS set.  The open COBRA lettered covers are a different story.  NOS sets are rarely seen.  Which style are you asking about?

Best of luck

Cory            They are like the first photo . Thanks for the info. Love this SAAC site so many knowledgeable people  Thanks Again

Any idea what new valve covers go for a 66 Gt 350 , these are Ford valve covers in original boxes I guess over the counter Ford product . 

Quote from: jguyer on November 20, 2020, 08:02:01 PM
Are we talking about 2008 GT500KR Wheel



or 1968 GT500KR wheel?

Yes 2008 KR wheels looking to buysome not sure what the fair price would be if I can find some

 
  Looking to buy a set of KR rims not sure what the going rate would be. I know they are not produced any more , any ideas what they go for?
  Thanks

    Okay finally got the nuts loose after soaking & heat. For anyone replacing these the originals have two sleeves that are rolled at each end & in order to get them off you need carefully grind the lip off .

Bob
  Yes sorry about the first post They can be moved up & down so its time to replace them. Thanks for the info to obtain the proper parts. 

  Thanks thats what I thought , they look like they have never been changed.  Just would like the right parts to put back on it .
 

    Bob
I have a 68 shop manual that shows an inner & outer sleeve. the kit I have has one 2 1/2 " sleeve . My question are these strut rods loose as I said on my first post, I would think you shouldn`t be able to move them up & down by hand. Every time I hit a bump I hear a clunk on the left side & this start after installing new bushings on the stabilizer bar , which I thought clunk might becoming
from  that but a don`t think so every thing looks fine.