SAAC Forum

Quote from: motorhead428 on January 29, 2018, 06:05:22 PM
Does anyone Have picture of Early vs Late brushed Aluminum pieces for comparison. Mine is a 12/01/1966 production date from SJ. I will try to get it out of storage and post a picture soon.

Here is a comparison.

Yes, they have the tabs just like original.

I would suggest amending the title of this thread by adding "console trim ring" to better help those in the future who may search for this info. This thread has had informative information others will think so too IMO.  I am thinking about the future (no more crash's thank you).

Quote from: roddster on January 29, 2018, 11:06:52 AM
JimMac is correct.  If you have an early car, you are out of luck as the difference is where the forward edge is cut at the top corner. 
  Waiting for the early/late cut-off declaration.  Would be good to know.

My best guess based on observations would be later Dec 66 and no later then end of Jan 67 .At least until more compelling evidence suggest otherwise.

Quote from: outlawincorporated on January 29, 2018, 06:21:58 AM
Wasn't there 2 versions of the rotunda red ink stamped version.
as I described them a thin and thick base??

picture attached, would like to here what others have to say

regards.

PHILL BERESFORD
MELBOURNE.
AUSTRALIA.

Phil,I don't recall seeing that style on a GT350. It could be another vendor in the same time period but more likely IMO a earlier version. Maybe someone else has more insight.

Quote from: Fast Fords on January 28, 2018, 12:28:48 PM
I have a question about a sand cast air cleaner base on a GT500. I was wondering, is the base flat on the bottom with just the elbow or does it have the ribs on it with part number like the aluminum one? Thanks for any help...Greg.

The early later sand cast base is thicker so it does not need the strengthening ribs like the thinner die cast base. The sand cast bottom is smooth relatively speaking. More important for identification however is the elbow in the front. The original type used on the GT500 had a steel elbow added later and is crimped in . It will swivel with a little persistence. The elbow is not cast in place as part of the base.Those are repros.

Quote from: rcgt350 on January 28, 2018, 09:49:25 AM
Did the finish of their pieces change since around 2008? I ordered a set of brushed inserts back then and had to return them as they were so far off of originals. They were quite glossy, a darker shade and didn't have that sharp look of silver to them. Has anyone ever come across this? He was very good about returning though.
Randy

I haven't experienced that problem or heard of anyone recently who has that has used them fortunatly. I have not seen anyone who reproduces these dash trim panels get the sheen 100%. The originals were Brite Dip anodized (different then regular anodizing) just like exterior aluminum trim (68 wheel lip molding, 66 1/4 windows) is done. All the repro panels I have seen use a different process (clear coat paint?) that is shinier then original.

Quote from: Bigfoot on January 28, 2018, 11:23:26 AM
Should it be horse hair for an assembly piece just like 8146-A on a Big block?

The SB shroud for 67-70 is a smooth plastic different then the BB fiber visible version.

Quote from: corbins on January 28, 2018, 08:17:02 AM
So, there is a difference between an a/c one and a non-a/c one ?  Just curious...

All 68 GT350 received the same extra cooling radiator regardless of if equipped with A/C or not.The Shrouds are the same too.

Quote from: BGlover67 on January 27, 2018, 06:11:01 PM
Where do I send my $100?

It is for a good cause . I'm in.

Quote from: Bill on January 24, 2018, 06:19:09 AM
Being a March 31st 1969 build, I remember some arguments between  "two members"    about whether the car came with the big (KKX) suspension (now documented as the earliest car to date thanks to Mongo), a space saver spare, and I think the ribbed drivers front inner fender panel. The big suspension was the easy one, the space saver spare took a little more time and muscle.

Yes to big suspension
No to space saver spare
Yes (I think  ) to ribbed inner fender panel

If I remember right it was the space saver spare bracket . Whether it had a space saver spare or not was never in question  according to Mongo.

Quote from: 68cobra427 on January 27, 2018, 12:24:13 PM
Have all 4 missing wrappers. $800 Nice,  Ups included in USA.


Troy

FYI should not be a problem since you would want to take them out of the wrappers to inspect for oxidation of the anodizing.

Quote from: Wedgeman on January 27, 2018, 06:06:28 PM
Did those CS valve covers even exist in 1967.......unless the pic is from later on.....

Yes they were available. Shelby sold the Cobra name to Ford in 67 ( may have sold it earlier but at least was told to stop using it) so the parts CS sold over the counter like intakes ,valve covers ,oil pans etc. had to be marked Shelby or CS . CS was not licensed by Ford to use the Cobra name. They made parts with the Cobra name under contract by Ford to sell to Ford.

Quote from: greekz on January 27, 2018, 03:06:29 PM
Since, the other thread appear to lost, I thought posting an up date would be appropriate.  After receiving the rebuild booster from Booster Dewey and installing new master cylinder, which caused the booster to fail, the transmission shifts perfectly and I have power brakes for the first time in years. 

New problem now is the rear brakes are locking up when applying sudden pressure.  Perhaps my proportioning valve is defective.  Never noticed before since the power assist was minimal.  Anyone rebuild these?

Pictures of the installation.

Yes, if it hasn't been rebuilt in the last 50 years then it is a safe bet it needs to now. West coast Cougar sells a kit as well as others but the Cougar guys have a nice DIY video on U tube for the distribution block and proportioning valve . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kOCpaFGWGw

Quote from: shelbydoug on January 27, 2018, 11:32:03 AM

Quote from: crxnug on January 27, 2018, 11:14:50 AM
thats where i need to get some clarification, will bead blasting leave the exact same appearance that was there originally , if not then i would spray paint it so it is correct

Original? Well, right there that is a little controversial? It really depends on the original finish on YOUR manifold.

Some had very rough cast finishes. Some almost shinny like a pressure cast item does. I'm convinced they ALL had the COBRA highlighted.

I would rephrase the question and consider it a question of what the predominant majority of the knowledgeable expect the manifold to look like. In other words, take the advise of someone like Bob Gaines or the equivalent as to what is a "pretty good" representation of what the original finish was. I don't think that you will ever get a 100% agreement or even close to that of what it should look like.

You CAN hurt them a little by using the wrong blast media AND the finish on something like the Blue Thunder manifolds confuses things. It's pretty but hardly what the originals came out looking like.

IF you decide to play with different media in the blaster,  protect the machined surfaces. That is really a PITA but I think worth it.

Personally, and I'm gonna' get flack on this one for sure, I like the Black Beauty SANDBLAST media followed by a wash with the HEAVY DUTY, smart your eyes acid wheel cleaner. It's going to make it look like an Edelbrock finish and similar to the Blue Thunder. Both REALLY nice finishes.

That will get rid of a lot of the staining put into the castings by years of grease, grit and spilled gas BUT (and this is a BIG one) it may reveal casting flaws like porosity in the castings that you never saw before or knew were there? So that's kinda' a can of worms.

If you are a perfectionist, you are probably better off sending it to Jim Cowles?  He's a PITA too but you need to remember the same thing that makes him difficult to live with is the same thing that makes his results exceptional? 

Definitely stay away from paint though. You do not want to go that route.

Yes, not painted. First off I have yet to duplicate with bead blasting the exact factory finish the aluminum intakes had when fresh new. The fresh cast look is hard to duplicate. I keep a unmolested example around to remind me. It is a little scary when I read  Shelbydoug's post because it makes me think he can read my mind or has been spying on me (now I sound like him    ) . I agree with the finish on a brand new Blue Thunder finish being very close. I have only been able to duplicate that original finish on a couple of intakes in my life and those are ones that I didn't have to blast and just cleaned chemically. Those are few and far between . Most you have to blast in some form or fashion. You lose some definition when you blast. The technique he suggests going about getting something in finish close is compatible too.  I have found that glass beads make the finish too shiny IMO.The black beauty is very aggressive grit . There are machined surfaces on the top side that will have to be dressed out afterwards .You do that after the acid wash . There is a learning curve with this type of work. If you don't plan on doing this kind of restoration much and want the best look the first time out you might consider sending to Jim at Shelby parts (like I said scary)    .