SAAC Forum

Quote from: shelbydoug on January 27, 2018, 11:32:03 AM

Quote from: crxnug on January 27, 2018, 11:14:50 AM
thats where i need to get some clarification, will bead blasting leave the exact same appearance that was there originally , if not then i would spray paint it so it is correct

Original? Well, right there that is a little controversial? It really depends on the original finish on YOUR manifold.

Some had very rough cast finishes. Some almost shinny like a pressure cast item does. I'm convinced they ALL had the COBRA highlighted.

I would rephrase the question and consider it a question of what the predominant majority of the knowledgeable expect the manifold to look like. In other words, take the advise of someone like Bob Gaines or the equivalent as to what is a "pretty good" representation of what the original finish was. I don't think that you will ever get a 100% agreement or even close to that of what it should look like.

You CAN hurt them a little by using the wrong blast media AND the finish on something like the Blue Thunder manifolds confuses things. It's pretty but hardly what the originals came out looking like.

IF you decide to play with different media in the blaster,  protect the machined surfaces. That is really a PITA but I think worth it.

Personally, and I'm gonna' get flack on this one for sure, I like the Black Beauty SANDBLAST media followed by a wash with the HEAVY DUTY, smart your eyes acid wheel cleaner. It's going to make it look like an Edelbrock finish and similar to the Blue Thunder. Both REALLY nice finishes.

That will get rid of a lot of the staining put into the castings by years of grease, grit and spilled gas BUT (and this is a BIG one) it may reveal casting flaws like porosity in the castings that you never saw before or knew were there? So that's kinda' a can of worms.

If you are a perfectionist, you are probably better off sending it to Jim Cowles?  He's a PITA too but you need to remember the same thing that makes him difficult to live with is the same thing that makes his results exceptional? 

Definitely stay away from paint though. You do not want to go that route.

Yes, not painted. First off I have yet to duplicate with bead blasting the exact factory finish the aluminum intakes had when fresh new. The fresh cast look is hard to duplicate. I keep a unmolested example around to remind me. It is a little scary when I read  Shelbydoug's post because it makes me think he can read my mind or has been spying on me (now I sound like him    ) . I agree with the finish on a brand new Blue Thunder finish being very close. I have only been able to duplicate that original finish on a couple of intakes in my life and those are ones that I didn't have to blast and just cleaned chemically. Those are few and far between . Most you have to blast in some form or fashion. You lose some definition when you blast. The technique he suggests going about getting something in finish close is compatible too.  I have found that glass beads make the finish too shiny IMO.The black beauty is very aggressive grit . There are machined surfaces on the top side that will have to be dressed out afterwards .You do that after the acid wash . There is a learning curve with this type of work. If you don't plan on doing this kind of restoration much and want the best look the first time out you might consider sending to Jim at Shelby parts (like I said scary)    .       

Quote from: mr68shelby on January 26, 2018, 09:20:50 PM
What is the correct color to paint the edges of the valve cover gaskets? Mike. #872

The GT500 valve cover was cork and was covered with a silver color sealer. Aluma blast non smudge aluminum paint that Eastwood sells works great. Don't forget the the triangle shaped tabs that were on the factory gaskets. Modern gaskets typically don't have the tabs  (they were for the cutouts in the factory sheetmetal valve covers ) or don't have enough you may have to make some out of extra cork and glue them on to complete the look. All should be silver.

Quote from: 67350#1242 on January 26, 2018, 05:53:15 PM
Looks like it is missing the threaded plug for off idle vacuum port on the primary metering plate - pass. side.  You may or may not need a plug depending if you have vacuum advance distributor.  If vacuum adv. dist. will need a nipple adapter.
Kurt.

You need the plug if for 65-67 Shelby. 68 Shelby used a different carb but did have a vac port because the dist on 68-70 Shelby was vac advance . The brass adapter for the fuel filter is needed only if you want the original look. you can use the FG14 like what is on there but it does not look assemblyline. Shelby Parts, Virginia Mustang, NPD sell the brass adapter if you choose the original look.

Quote from: Rocket on January 26, 2018, 12:51:24 PM
Does anyone know the approximate Ford vin of the earliest fastbacks that were built. I have a friend, who's vin ends in 154081, I think. I might be missing a 0 in the middle. I think when San Jose started Mustang production, they started with 100001, but since fastbacks started much later, there were a lot of Mustangs already built. His car has some odd features, and he has been told it was a very early fastback. Thanks for any help with this. Ron

Try over at the concours Mustang forum . http://concoursmustang.com/

Quote from: rbarkley on January 26, 2018, 01:53:44 PM
I am cleaning up and painting the under-dash Stewart-Warner instrument cluster and was wondering if you can clean the inside of the amperes gauge glass?
I removed all the nuts on the back side, but see no way of getting to the glass.   Can you remove the chrome ring rim without breaking the glass or aluminum casing?

Thanks
Ron

The short version is that you have to peel back the backside edge of the chrome ring to take it off to clean the face, glass, and or change a damaged trim ring. It is tedious work. I made a fixture to sit the gauge into while I carefully peeled/bent back the backside edge.

Quote from: jim mac on January 26, 2018, 01:33:16 PM
Just as a comment for those looking at the Burton brushed aluminum door panels.  They make only one version as far as I know, the later version.  I know at one time a few years ago they were considering making the earlier version, but I have not seen it.  Others on the forum may know more.  For what it is worth, I have them on my car and they look good and fit perfectly.

Jim

+1. As far as I know they haven't made up the early panels .Maybe if enough people committed to buying a pair they would.

Quote from: shelbydoug on January 26, 2018, 09:51:40 AM
How can it be call authentic with inboards and Lemans stripes? Authentic to who? It's too late of a car to have inboards isn't it?

Yes too late IMO. If I remember right the owner wanted the inboards when it was restored. If I remember correctly at least two times entered in SAAC concours maybe three. First time that particular restorer attempted a concours resto on a 67 Shelby. 

Quote from: Fast Fords on January 26, 2018, 10:33:54 AM
I bought my brushed aluminum dash from Burton's and was happy with them. The only complaint I had was around the blinkers and the high beam light indicator, they did not have the raised chrome piece that surrounds these like the originals have. They may do this know but I am not sure. Otherwise, they are nice.

The brushed panel does not have the edge. It is the plastic chrome panel that has the edge. I knew they had a problem at one time where they were making the triangle cut out too small and covering the raised edge on the dash bezel. The cut out is supposed to be large enough to fit over the raised edge letting it protrude out from under the panel. I have reports that this has been taken care of .If it hasn't bring it to their attention so they can make it right. This raised edge or lip protruding through the brush panel is a detail well look for in concours judging.

Quote from: Fast Fords on January 26, 2018, 10:33:54 AM
I bought my brushed aluminum dash from Burton's and was happy with them. The only complaint I had was around the blinkers and the high beam light indicator, they did not have the raised chrome piece that surrounds these like the originals have. They may do this know but I am not sure. Otherwise, they are nice.

The brushed panel does not have the edge. It is the plastic chrome panel that has the edge. I knew they had a problem at one time where they were making the triangle cut out too small and covering the raised edge on the dash bezel. The cut out is supposed to be large enough to fit over the raised edge letting it protrude out from under the panel. I have reports that this has been taken care of .If it hasn't bring it to their attenion so they can make it right. This raised edge or lip protruding through the brush panel is a detail well look for in concours judging.   

Quote from: Cjc6566 on January 26, 2018, 12:45:05 AM
Thanks all- it won't change my weekend plans to clean and rebuild the master cylinder but it will be a new post under items wanted as I search for the correct replacement!  Feel free to PM me if you know a direction of a correct replacement.

Best Regards,

Cory

Cory, you will be glad to know that the later style without the need for a adapter is the easiest to find . If you find a core it will more likely be the later design then the earlier. They sell on ebay frequently.

Quote from: 2112 on January 25, 2018, 03:02:53 AM
To get a complete set, do you buy from Burton directly?

They seem to run a store on eBay if it is the same burton.

I have always bought direct. I think some of the high profile Mustang vendors sell them also but you would have to ask.

Quote from: J_Speegle on January 25, 2018, 01:53:28 AM
Cory - Looked through all my pictures and notes and have to offer that I can't find any thing supporting that this is the original one for your car. Nor  the correct style (with fittings) for a car in the 1600's.

Right now I've have examples of no-fitting disc brake master cylinders starting on San Jose built cars starting in the 6R127 range.  Way, before your car was likely built. Believe 6S1203's is a no-fitting version also but that is just one of many I have records of.

Just thought I should share historical data and info to the discussion

I too am skeptical that a car with your VIN came with the adapter also. It would more likely be the evolved version that didn't need the adapter IMO. That is why I phrased my response ( if your 66 car used the adapter) to address only the originality aspect of the master itself and not whether it was original to your car or not.

Quote from: tesgt350 on January 25, 2018, 03:06:07 PM
When they "Original" it is supposed to mean it came with the Car from the Factory.

+1. original to the specific car. The T10 did not get a vin number for some reason like the toploaders typically did. Also don't forget the correct rear end center section portion of the drive train.

Quote from: greekz on January 24, 2018, 11:56:43 PM
I would not waste the time or money.  I have yet to see some refinished that didn't look like they were. I think you will be disappointed . I think you would be better served by using the Burton reproduced alternative. Those typically look closer to original then a refinished panel. Just my opinion others may have different.

Would you say Burton reproductions are better than reproduction panels from the late 1980's?
[/quote]The only ones I can think of from the late 80's time period was "Mr G's" and yes anything on the market today is better then those rough panels that looked like they were finished by rubbing on a concrete sidewalk back then . The Burton ones are sold with the steel backing with the bend over tabs to work in the original panels . They are better then some of the ones that came on the Ford service gauge bezels . They sell the door panels also . There are others that are nice too but I have had good luck with the Burton. For those reading whenever you buy the panels regardless of which you buy you can't get by with just buying one like a gauge bezel and not the others. You have to buy all across the dash otherwise they will not match. It is easy to distinguish the difference between a change in brush finish.  You can get by with not doing the door inserts if you don't need to because they are not next to the dash . The dash pieces on the other hand are butted up to each other and it is easy to see any difference between them.

Quote from: 557 on January 24, 2018, 08:58:23 PM

Quote from: s2ms on January 23, 2018, 12:06:19 AM
Think this is the one I originally posted on the crashed forum, best version I have...

.      Thermactor car eh?California?

Likely but not a forgone conclusion.  Thermactor cars ended up in non mandatory states sometimes. It depended on things like color and trans and if the combination was needed to fill a dealer order somewhere else. Most cars were built by SA on speculation to fill dealer "orders".