SAAC Forum

I went trough 6 of the "new" reproduction coils. Finally gave up and cleaned and repainted my old crusty, nasty, crudy, beat up looking coil. Hasn't missed a beat since. Before that I changed the carburetor twice, 4 sets of points and condensers, 8 sets of plugs, set of wires, cap and rotor, two sets of intake gaskets, check, compression, leak down, camshaft.
Car would run good one day, bad the next, fiddle with the crab, ran great, drive it 20 minutes, starting surging, popping back through the carb, running rough.
When I first put the car back on the road it wouldn't start, the new coil was bad. I can't belive how many of these coils I went through before going back to my old coil. May not be concours, but it never has failed

Most trailers 20 feet of more can be sufficient for hauling the car. The bigger you get the more space you have. Cabinets, floor covering,escape doors, generators, etc. all add up and can push the price up quickly. What also needs to be addressed is how comfortable are you driving and more importantly parking the setup. I'm fair at best and I usually research where I'm going for spaces big enough for me to park. I google earth the hotel, look at restaurants, and even gas stations to make sure I can get in and more importantly out of the space. The turning radius on some truck/trailer combos are quite daunting and the height is another restriction
The more you drive it the better you become. If you do get a set up practice driving around in a large parking lot with cones and marked off spaces to become proficient with the setup. I know people who tow with the F150 ecoboost and have no problems, Ford offers a ton of options for towing on the F150,camera setups, auto backup, heavy duty cooling and towing packages. I also have friends that tow 28 foot and larger trailers and they all have turbo diesels and the torque of those engines are amazing, but the cost for initial purchase and some of the up keep is somewhat expensive.
I change the tires on everything when they hit 6 years old, regardless of how it looks, seen too many tire blowouts from tires that have aged beyond that. I also carry two spares in the trailer and check brakes, lights, and use an infrared temp gun to check tire and wheels temps when ever we stop.
I might be paranoid while towing but since it's the car riding in a trailer I don't feel too much safety is too much.
I have only towed the car to three shows, once to Carlisle for the 50th Mustang celebration because it was going to be displayed inside and they were calling for torrential rains,  SAAC 42 because my wife said she's getting too old to ride that far in the car and the 2016 MCACN Show in Chicago in a November because, well it's November in Chicago
I have towed other people cars, moved my daughter 800 miles and even moved flowers for a wedding with the trailer all with no problems or issues
Since I don't have a garage, the car sit in the trailer, I keep both heavily insured. The trailer has alarms, 8 sets of locks and even a boot to make it extremely difficult to move or break into
With all of this, it's one of the reasons I prefer to drive the car to most shows
235,000 miles and counting on the car

It's a dangerous slide

Has anyone ever used one of the vendors that repair and rechrome plastic parts?
I have about 11 magnum 500 center caps that I would like to get redone. All are scratched, chrome is worn off and most are missing a pin or two that holds then to the wheel
Any suggestions?  I know I can get repos but I am slowly sliding down that rabbit hole of NOS stupidity

I can barley stand to look at it, brings tears to my eyes

Picked a used trailer from a guy getting divorce, a used 1999 F350 dually with 12,000 miles on it, and almost matching cap. Since I don't have a garage this is where the car lives when I'm not driving it

Neat story about a side trip to Bonneville, the comments about the salt getting in everywhere is true. I found salt in the car 20 years after it was last there

If it lasts more than 4 hours, you aren't driving fast enough

Well he is BiGLover

For most drivers the stock setup works great, unless you are really going to race it around the track or drag strip, stock will last forever for most driving

Quote from: Bob Gaines on March 09, 2018, 02:34:29 PM

Quote from: Greg on March 09, 2018, 01:05:37 PM
Bob,

What is your opinion of glass beading at low pressure 25-30psi?  I have seen pretty good results from that and then applying heat.

Greg

The low pressure blasting will clean it but also change the finish. IF the bell hasn't been blasted and there is paint or grease on it then chemically strip it is best . If it has already been blasted all bets are off.  The bell housing in the tunnel is typically protected from the elements and if covered in grease that is all the better from a preservation standpoint. That is different then a bell that has been taken off and left in a field or outside parts pile to rot.   After chemically striping it and there are areas that may have a little oxidation you can play with those problem areas with a little mothers or semichrome . If it becomes too shiny you go over the area with a wire wheel cleaner or aluminum wash to dull it down. There are many variables and I just touched on a few techniques. I haven't tried soda blasting on this part because I have been successful using other methods. I have used that on carb bodies with good results so maybe. If I soda blasted the part I would still chemically strip if painted or greasy first and then do finial clean with soda . That is if I was determined to do it with the baking soda. That is just me others may think differently.

+1

Took 3 years of Body and fender in High School. Worked with lead. It's not that difficult to work with if and its a big IF, the surface is prepared right, you use the right lead ( not old wheel weights melted down), the right torch and temperature (too hot and concentrated it runs off and the metal warps, too cold it doesn't adhere and doesn't fill correctly) Its a deft touch with the heat, the lead and the paddle (made of oak and dipped in bee's wax to help smooth it out)
If you know what your doing it's usually a thin coat, if you don't its a molten lump you have to grind off.
when you see it done right its like magic when you see it done wrong its a nightmare
The fumes and the environmental impact make it tough to get done now a days.
its like watching somebody with a torch, a shrinking and stretching hammer work out a big dent or crease without replacing the fender, door or even quarter panel, almost all are lost arts
try it on an old fender or door (use something from the 60's today's steels don't work like they did)

Corey if you need a pilot bearing puller I got one you can use. Or your can do it the old fashioned way and pack the pilot bearing hole with grease and use the wooden dowl that fits snuggly in the hold and hit it with a hammer.
I think I have an old Ford self training book that shows how to "index" the bell housing to the block
Let me know and I'll dig them out

In 1974 I was coming home from a late night college class and it was a warm spring night. I still had my right arm in a cast from fingertips to armpit from a hang glider accident, so I was driving with my left hand only. It was one of those night we all dream for, a full moon, and open road and the sound of a hipo 289 at about 5,000 rpms. As I was driving down the road I began to notice a set of lights far behind me. The road was full of rises and falls and I wondered who was driving that fast. As I crossed the bridge on the county line I slowed up and then I saw the red lights flash on. It was a Prince George's county cop. I thought "oh crap, this is it I'm going to loose my license". He pulled me over about a mile into Anne Arundel county and came up to the car. He was an older officer and was actually shaking. He yelled "Do you know how fast you were going" I told him no, but I was certain he would tell me. He said the road was too twisty and not straight enough to get a good clocking in me, but he said his Crown Vic was maxed out and if I hadn't slowed up he would have never caught me. He saw I had my arm in a cast and started yelling at me for driving at speeds approaching 120 with one arm. I said that I really thought I wasn't going that fast, maybe 80 at the max (I was actually enjoying seeing the speedometer hover around 100-105 when I saw the lights), but I wasn't telling him that. By this time an Anne Arundel cop had pulled up and he asked what was going on. The PG cop told him he wanted to ticket me and impound the car, the Anne Arundel cop told him to back off as I was way over the county line and out of their jurisdiction. He asked the PG cop had he clocked me in Anne Arundel county, he said, because I had slowed down when I crossed the county line. The Anne Arundel cop told him to get back across the line before he reported him. After the PG cop left, the AA Cop turned to me and said, "Alright how fast were you going" I told him the truth and  he starting laughing. He said that he knew the other cop, and he didn't like him because he seemed to always patrol the county line and liked to give big tickets and play the big bad cop. He looked the car over and told me to take it easy in his jurisdiction but if I wanted to go over the county line make sure I was close enough to get back over as quickly as I could and slow down
No tickets and the license was safe for now.

Quote from: SFM6S087 on March 05, 2018, 04:53:24 AM
Great story & pictures!

Have you ever had your 6S289 featured in "The Shelby American"? If not, you need to write up that story with a little more detail and submit it to Rick Kopec. I feel certain he would publish it. And there are a lot of SAAC members who don't read the forum, so you'd be sharing with a wider audience. Just a suggestion.

Steve

+1