SAAC Forum

     Note that the article presented states that the U.S. needs to conform to a fuel of 95 octane, as in Europe. Based of observations of engine requirements and performance on units we ship to Europe, one realizes that the 95 octane as labeled is apparently perhaps two numbers lower in a U.S. rating process. So, don't get to excited yet! 

     Scott. 

Quote from: 2112 on April 03, 2018, 10:25:02 PM
I bet that Cammer is for a V-Drive flat bottom.

    Yep, a friend of mine owned that boat for a while several years ago.

     Scott.

     Hey Randy, did you see it when you were here in Florida?

    We do market the Water Wetter product, and as stated previously, it is popular in many racing formats, but we also have witnessed that this product alone may not provide the same level of anti-corrosion value one may appreciate from the typical anti-freeze products (properly maintained).  Also, I wonder whether or not the water pump seal(s) is lubricated to the same degree for extended periods of time, perhaps 10's of thousands of miles and decades chronologically, as this is rarely experienced in racing programs.   

     Scott.

     I wish those participating in the antique, classic, collector, special interest or whatever one wishes to label it vehicle ownership field, would stop implying that the participant should calculate the investments one may incur in their ownership, insuring that they don't exceed a value which they may expect to receive at the point in time when they may divest themselves of said ownership. I feel this frame of mind is detrimental to the collecting hobby, where perhaps personal interests would be driving the value, perhaps at a slower, but more stable and understandable rates, vs. some inane "Investment Counselor" dictating market trends and values.

     The bulk of the participants are, or should be, involved as "HOBBYISTS", not investors! This idea that one shouldn't invest more capital into a hobby vehicle than he or she can recoup at the sale is preposterous!  Ford Motor Company isn't selling new Mustang GT's vs. some econo-box by implying that your going to get your money back when you sell it. YOU-BUY-IT........... BECAUSE-YOU-WANT-IT! 

     Scott.

     

     

    If someone is interested, EBAY item #273106222866 OEM 65-66 VINTAGE PAXTON/SHELBY SUPERCHARGER KIT.

         Scott.

     P.S. I didn't say it was cheap!     

160 is too low for optimum power and minimum wear.Z [/quote]

     O.K.. Allow me to jump in here and stir the pot some. 

     This simple, strait-to-the-point statement is not necessarily incorrect, but also not necessarily accurate, depending on the many variables at hand. i.e. "IT DEPENDS"   

     There are some ultimate requirements and limitations associated with nominal engine temperature as perceived (note that the gauge value does not necessarily indicate the actual sum at critical points), but, this required value as delivered by the thermostat may vary. And, this could definitely turn into a book, lets just list a few simplistic observations.
     The oil needs to be of a temperature which promotes good flow; adequate heat to add vaporization of fuel particularly within the induction tract, but not to ignore said value within the combustion area also; and evaporation of water condensation within the crankcase; but, not excessive temperature values which may exceed these requirements, and may offer negative effects including, but not limited to, initiating a detonation scenario upon the combustion process.
     If I were to identify a minimum & maximum temperature sum of the typical American V8 engines' oil and water, ideally before one entertained placing this engine under any significant some of duress: 140° - 220°, give or take? A few considerations for the cooler or warmer operating temperature might be:
     COOLER = horsepower potential due in part to cooler & denser inlet charge, reduction of detonation & pre-ignition events, improved lubrication & cooling values of the oil providing reduced wear on load-bearing surfaces, etc.; perhaps indicating that for higher R.P.M.s, loads and durations, one may chose to utilize a cooler thermostat value. Also, in the warmer environments, unfortunately the cooler radiator is less efficient as increasing the temperature differential between it and the ambient temperature increases its' effectiveness.
     WARMER = improved "efficiency" with improved air/fuel mixing and combustion (particularly at low engine speeds), improved emissions acceptance, also a reduction in wear from "fuel-washing" and pollution of the crankcase, and with the reduction of viscosity of oil (due to heat) a reduction in pumping losses, older engines with excessive clearances might even "seal-up" better with heat and reap an improvement in operation, etc. Oh, and for the folks in the northern territories, the heater works better! Therefor, if one "short-hops", and or "puts-about", I would definitely install a warmer thermostat value.
     One of the real concerns, often overlooked, within the subject of engine temperature is not so much whether it's 20° more or less, but rather if it can be maintained at a constant sum. As the castings do not really care what temperature they are in operation (within reason), but do change dimensionally, and therefor loading and surface wear characteristics of so-called "familiarized wear surfaces" fluctuate imparting increased wear rates.
     Just a few thoughts, left out a lot, but this could consume one in study.   

     Scott.


     
     
     

     

     I don't remember about 1968 applications , but with the introduction of the 351C engines, the cast iron bellhousings accepting the 164 tooth, 11" clutches, had a boss cast into the starter well to limit the depth application of the starter.

     Scott.

     The frequent reference to the flywheel tooth count as to proper starter application in the S.B.F.: 157 tooth count manual flywheels & both the 157 & 164 tooth count automatic flexplates generally accept the longer noise or sometimes referred to as the 3/4" depth units, whereas the 164 tooth count manual flywheel generally utilize the shorter noise or sometimes referred to as the 3/8" depth units. Also, note that the starter's location register diameter relationship is different: 4.084" in the prior vs. 4.130" in the later.   

     Scott.

Quote from: caspian65 on March 08, 2018, 04:21:27 PM

IMHO, the only thing to consider is going with a diaphragm, modern type clutch or the old pressure plate setup. 

     There are many different clutch release ratios in diaphragms, as there have been different fork ratios for the Long-Style units. This understood, I still have not experienced a diaphragm clutch unit installed in mechanical Z-bar operated Ford vehicle, which presents the proper "feel" in function of the Long-Style units, and I do dislike this "new" experience.

     Scott.

Quote from: Bob Gaines on March 06, 2018, 01:22:55 AM

Quote from: 6s1640 on March 06, 2018, 01:17:36 AM
The canvas sunroof was available back in the day.  I have a buddy with a 68 Cougar with the factory canvas sunroof.  The owner of the car may have purchased the pieces to install.  It could be considered a "day 2" modification. 

Cory

P.S.  The canvas sunroof is much more reliable that the electric sunroof from the same time period and simpler to install.

Or to some a Dumb Day 2 modification .

    These were/are commonly referred to as Webasto sunroofs; quite popular in Europe, on vehicles without A.C. in the period; and particularly where the roof configuration would not permit a sliding rigid panel type. Example would be my 1976 TVR 3000M, roof line is not of adequate length, so one gets the folding canvas.

     But, good news for the discriminating Shelby owner wishing to add some European flavour to your ride, I intend on removing (someday) the folding rag from the roof of my TVR, and I could make it available to such a continental enthusiast.  And, if your shy about taking on the task of installation, well, I've got a fine pair of tin-snips..........
     Scott.