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Messages - J_Speegle

#1
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Early GT350 grill badge
April 14, 2024, 10:00:54 PM
Concours judging is very different compared to 2010 or even earlier

Quote from: 65GT350dragster on April 14, 2024, 02:56:22 PMShelby kits sold in 1965 to install on stock Mustangs?

Yes and other Fords

Here is a picture of a dress up kit and two of the round emblems included




 
Quote from: 65GT350dragster on April 14, 2024, 02:56:22 PMMy father entered the car in concours event at a SAAC meet in S Mass sometime around 2010.  The judging hit him up for a loose badge, but not the style.  Sadly, he has since passed.  Can I assume this round badge is period correct and appropriate?  ....................


If entered now I would think that the Concours team in div II would discuss the badge and make a comment. A very small deduction for it would not surprise me or they might just talk to the owner about it and suggest that next time its removed before showing.
#2
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Early GT350 grill badge
April 09, 2024, 09:29:29 PM
Looks like the ones included in the Shelby Kits. IMHO likely the source. Often installed on/in the fender  (double posts if I recall correctly)

Its possible that that is the source and the owner only had one rather than two so he choose the grill instead of the fenders  IMHO Day #2 modification
#3
Thanks for all your efforts and time
#4
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Horn Issues
April 05, 2024, 03:00:20 PM
First step - do you have power to one of the posts/brushes behind the wheel?

second - what happens (horns work) when you, for a second, apply power to the other post/brush?
#5
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: KR Hood hinges
April 05, 2024, 02:57:19 PM
Be aware that paint will not outlast plating. In both cases the hinges will rub the bases and on the painted surfaces will rust. On plated (if cared for with the use of preserving oil) will not or should not rust if you keep up the application

For the painted don't clear coat it. And if applied to heavy it will leave a smooth somewhat glossy finish neither something you are looking for. Also using paint will take more effort when it comes time to repaint and is much more difficult to touch up if it can be  where the P&O can be touched up in place (depending on where the issue is)
#6
Drivers side shock tower near the top end typically

Originals

#7
Quote from: DP Customs on March 28, 2024, 03:16:53 PM
I'm chipping away at 55 years of wiring butchery on this '69 Shelby and found this resistor mounted inside the engine bay.  Someone hacked into the dash harness and ran a couple of pink wires to it.  I'm guessing this wasn't original equipment? I'm hoping someone can confirm. 

No that is not factory
#8
Believe the individual numbers possibly identified the mold number
#9
Quote from: rraceme on March 26, 2024, 06:49:52 PM
Jeff couple more questions.  When owners restore these cars do the have some of the different styled screws body color and the others not?

Yes the goal or task is restore these and other cars to as they were originally built so yes this will very likely be looked at shows were there are judges that are familiar with 66 San Jose/Shelby production.

Guess the question would be, why would a restorer not want to duplicate this detail other others and still refer to their efforts as restoring


Quote from: rraceme on March 26, 2024, 06:49:52 PM2nd  question.... why didn't the factory put all the screws in at once? What was the value of just some pan head screws being installed prior painting. Seems like all screws would be installed at same time. Thanks again for everyone's amazing knowledge.  Fred

Wasn't there and have not found and talked to the guy that made that decision. To us 50 years it might seem obvious as to what would be best or easiest but we were not there. Maybe this quickened up the rear valance installation so that part of the line could keep up. It is interesting that the other two Mustangs plant did install all of the top screws prior to paint. Don't know why that happened either  :)


Here are some shots of the two screw heads from an angle. Hope this helps. As the note says ignore the finish of the screws in the pictures. These were taken from different applications but the type/style of screw heads are what the focus is. The flat style is often used to retain the door upper weatherstrip stainless to the body on some applications and years. Just a place to find them

#10
Concours Talk / Re: 1966 Winshield
March 25, 2024, 10:47:03 PM
Quote from: SFcarbuff on March 25, 2024, 07:50:49 PM
Thanks,  Is the logo in the middle near the bottom?

Old style CarLite
Yes middle near bottom
#11
By the time your car was originally built as mentioned a rear valance with round holes was installed. Dating these panels can be fun since they typically have two dates stamped in the metal. One from the rear (as the panel is mounted) and one from the exterior side. Both at or near the upper edge.




By the time the car was built there were two different types/styles of attaching screws used. One style (flat headed) installed when the valance was attached to the unibody before the car was painted. These two screws were typically installed in the second or third hole from each end of the valance. The rest of the screws (pan heads) were  installed after the car was painted and the valance was pulled into the unibody at the bottom and these upper screws installed

Unrestored example very close to your cars assembly period..




I would say that the rear valances with the back up light holes were in the service parts system during and just after the cars were produced. Left overs and addition ones made from production of the cars but long term it didn't make much sense to produce and stock two versions since it would just increase stocking costs and other things.
#12
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Vacuum diagrams
March 18, 2024, 10:35:37 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on March 18, 2024, 07:37:57 PM
Sometimes you can find the big books on Ebay or swap meets.

+1 They are great resources though a bit bulky and a challenge to store since they are not on the typical book or page size format
#13
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Detail questions.
March 14, 2024, 07:14:08 PM
Quote from: KR500 on March 14, 2024, 05:18:05 PM
I am doing a 66 GT 350 and have a few detailing questions. It is a mid April Ford build.
Q.#1 What finish would the heater hose elbow at the intake manifold be? Gold cad. silver cad or engine blue?

By the time your engine was assembled it appears that the elbows were not being swapped from the iron intake any longer. For judging currently allow both -painted or plated





Quote from: KR500 on March 14, 2024, 05:18:05 PMQ.#3 The car has a cast iron T-10 and the the oil drain plug is a square drive with "MAGNETIC " on it.   Is this correct or a day 2 item?

Here is what I found on the majority  Approx 500's - 1450's

#14
Haven't heard or seen a neutral safety switch that was connected to the transmission on a 67-70 Mustang Cougar or Shelby but with the FMX they were located on the shifter but would guess that someone hopefully altered things to make one work in a 68 with a C6
#15
Looks like someone has looked at allot of magazine articles and online ones and borrowed from multiple sources (different plants and years) Reason for allot of the markings being incorrect or positioned differently than 67 San Jose. Yellow axle end, axle writing, big X .......... Painted front coil springs, bolt in cross member, backing plate finish .... will stop there

Did find it surprising that the black pinch weld overspray was not reproduced on the floor pans. 90% didn't end up on the pinch weld and hod to go somewhere  ::) Happy to see the body color rear wheel wells  :)

Don't mean to be picking the effort and car apart just, as above, concerned that someone else will copy the practices and details from the video and in turn possibly creating some disappointment for that person later at some point.