SAAC Forum

I have used SEM products and they are outstanding. The results are excellent and more importantly, they have held up on parts dyed 15 years ago **It is critical that you get the SEM Vinyl Prep which will work best for your dash. (SEM also offers a Plastic Prep, you will want the Vinyl Prep).
       My process would be to spray the dash with Simple Green cleaner and using a new plastic brush (like you would use on dishes in the kitchen) scrub the dash. Rinse off, dry the dash and repeat. I would spray, scrub and rinse the dash with Simple Green at least three times. Allow the dash to thoroughly dry for at least a day.
       On the day your are ready to apply the SEM, put on a pair of latex gloves to keep the oils from your hands off the dash. Apply the SEM Vinyl Prep per instructions. Wipe off with paper towel. If there are signs of any dirt on the paper towel, give another application of the Vinyl Prep. Once your are satisfied the dash is completely clean, apply the SEM dye in the color of your choice.
       Check the SEM website for locations that sell their products. I found mine at the local auto paint supplier.
        Best of luck with your project. If you get the dash spotlessly clean and use the Prep, you should have excellent results.
Jeff

Here is a link to the Ford Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) published in 1964 concerning the Holley carbs. If you are at sea level, start with #66 jets. I have read for every 2,000 feet of elevation, reduce the jets two sizes, so if you are in Denver for instance, start with 62s.
      Before you take the time to change jets, make certain the floats are set correctly.

http://www.427galaxieregistry.com/1964tsb.html

Jeff

From what you tell us, the car starts shaking and then dies AFTER it is completely stopped and at rest. This would indicate the problem is in the idle of the engine and not in the brake system. If the problem were in the brake system, Roland would have issues getting the car stopped smoothly. If it seems the shaking/dying is related to applying the brakes while at a dead stop, I would check for a vacuum leak causing the engine to run poorly and die. This leak would occur somewhere between the brass fitting on the back of the intake manifold and the brake booster. Check that there is no leakage around the brass fitting that is threaded into the rear of the intake manifold (stripped threads? Are there rubber caps on any of the fittings coming out of the brass fitting to plug them? If so, are the rubber caps cracked, loose or leaking?), check the lines that attach to the brass fitting and run to the booster itself, check that you have a rubber hose designed for power brakes and not a fuel line that will collapse under vacuum, check the rubber check-valve grommet on the booster and that the check valve is tightly sealed. If you think it could be the brake booster itself, perform this simple test - with the car off, press down firmly on the brake pedal, start the car, and you should feel the brake pedal drop a small but noticeable distance. If the pedal does not drop, then the driver is not getting any help from the booster to apply the brakes and the booster may require repair.
        As for the adjustment of the push rod going into the back of the master cylinder, this would not cause the car to shake/die. If the push rod is adjusted too short, when the driver applies the brake he/she will notice the brake pedal moving a fair distance before the brake system begins to respond and slow the car. If the push rod is too long, when the driver applies the brake the pedal most likely stick to the floor and will not "release" and return to the normal position when the driver takes his/her foot off the pedal. The brakes will remain locked. If Roland is getting immediate response from the brake system when he first presses on the brake pedal, and if the brake pedal is releasing after a full stop, the push rod adjustment should be fine.
         I hope this helps and please let us know what solves the problem if you get it figured out. 
Jeff
PS- my engine vacuum reading is quite a bit lower than Roland's and the power brake booster still operates as I would expect and the car stops fine. I would double-check the engine timing though with the vacuum reading that low. If the engine timing is way off, it may both raise the vacuum reading and smooth out the idle when the car is at a stop.