SAAC Forum

I know it sounds confusing.  What I have is a rebuilt big input shaft gearbox for the 428, which is fine.  The problem is the tail shaft is 28 spline and has the small block tail housing with shifter mount at the very end.  I need the big block tail housing for the 28 spline output shaft, with the shifter mount farther forward.  Can't find one anywhere, only option I can find is a new aluminum one from David Kee but so far I've had zero luck getting an answer by calling and emailing them.

I need a tail shaft housing for a top loader from a 390 Mustang or Cougar with the 28 spline output shaft.  Somehow I have a small block tail housing on an otherwise big block trans.  Other than buying a new aluminum one from DK, anyone holding one?

I'm looking for a competent shop or maybe retired individual to assemble my 67 GT500 project in the Seattle area. Car number 683.  It's basically ready for the drivetrain, some wire harness installation, power steering, etc. I have all the subassemblies restored and ready to be bolted together, from the dash cluster to the trans. Engine has been dyno'd, ready to install.  Everything is fresh and have all AMK fasteners to do the job.  Just have no time, a ruined back and now a bum shoulder to boot.  I spoke with Brad's Custom Auto and they are clearly qualified but not available until 2024.  I'm hoping to get this rig running and driving this Summer.  Any recommendations?  Seems nobody good and local wants the work, and I have it all ready to be assembled.  Car is rolling, all suspension is installed. No front clip to get in the way, just need it to run and drive for now.

I'm looking for a competent shop or maybe retired individual to assemble my 67 GT500 project.  It's basically ready for the drivetrain, some wire harness and under dash installation, and steering gear installation. I have all the subassemblies restored and ready to be bolted together, from the dash cluster to the trans. Everything is fresh and have all AMK fasteners to do the job.  Just have no time, a ruined back and now a bum shoulder to boot.  I spoke with Brad's Custom Auto and they are clearly qualified but not available until 2024.  I'm hopi g to get this rig running and driving this Summer.  Any recommendations?

Thanks a ton for the detailed breakdown.  Once I get back out in the shop (dealing with back issues and freezing temps currently), I'll tackle this and call you if I need to! 

Finally got the heart of my 67 GT500 up and running.  Decided to break it in and tune it on a dyno before squeezing it into the car.  Oddly enough, the dyno was originally Shelby American's then sold to a shop in Seattle, then to the guy who owns and operates Ed's Machine in Mukilteo, WA.  In addition to learning from Ed and watching a pro builder and tuner at work, the experience was even cooler knowing that my 428 was run in and tuned on the same dyno that SA used back in the day.

Hoping for some guidance on the reassembly process here.  I have a flat panel car (683) and need to reassemble the whole car.  For the tail light setup, do I "bench build" the lights onto the fiberglass panel first, and then rivet the assembly to the car, or rivet the panel on first and assemble the lights and boxes in place?  I've seen both methods but want to do this right. Also I am using the screw-on trim rings I have, rather than the smooth tail light rings my car probably came with.

Thank you for posting this.  For so long, I've thought there is a big gap between those of us who are entrenched in the car hobby, and those who are not.  Television in recent years has, in my opinion, painted a glossy and fully fictional picture of how old cars regain new life.  Modified, stock, rat rod, whatever.  Breathing life back into old iron takes a lot of research, knuckle busting work, time, skill, and most of all money.  I've been fortunate to have supportive parents who allowed me to drag home multiple projects over the years, and I worked multiple jobs to support my habit.  During which, I frequented swap meets at Carlisle, Hershey, Englishtown and others in search of the best stuff for my limited budget.  I fell prey to one bastard who sold me a 12-bolt rear for my '71 Chevelle which didn't remotely fit, because as a trusting, teenage kid I made the mistake of asking "what does this rear fit?" To which said bastard replied "what are you building, kid?".  I fell for it.  Lesson learned the hard way.
I hope there are more folks out there like you, and the super cool couple who sold you their Shelby, for my own son to encounter in his journey through the rusty, crusty world of classic car hunting.

For what it's worth, number 683 GT500 built in January has an all fiberglass hood and steel frame/fiberglass skin deck lid.

I scored some perfect OEM outer shock towers, wired up my dash cluster for installation, and installed the functional brake scoop ducts.

So after determining that my two sets of new aftermarket parts were ill-fitting garbage, I scored an original set of outer shock towers (aka coil spring covers) with rubber stoppers for a mere $25.  Score. They are rust free, and fit perfectly.  Just need to blast them clean and refinish.
So... should they be semi gloss black, natural metal, or what?  Second question, seems like all the Metuchen built '67 cars have the nuts on the inside of the engine compartment.  What about the San Jose cars?  Looks cleaner with the bolt heads on the inside, but what's correct?

I have what I suspect is the original carb linkage from a 63 Galaxie 427.  The bell crank, or main linkage part that goes between the carbs, has no arm for the return spring on the driver side.  The other side is all fine, and the linkage was all just replated and looks great.  There is just no arm for the return spring, only the throttle rod connected to the  firewall bracket.
Question is does anyone repro the correct bell crank for the GT500?

Welcome!  I have 683, also parchment interior, but Brittany Blue.  Nearing the end of the long, dark tunnel of a rotisserie Resto.

I found an Interstate battery distribution center that sells perfectly good "Blemished" batteries for about $50.  Use them in my daily drivers and my Meyers Manx which gets stored all winter (here in WA that's about 7 months).
Easy to rattle can the green top black, and good to go.

I know, spirited big block is a bit corny.  I need a good street/strip clutch setup for my 67 GT500.  Already installed a roller bearing pedal support, but otherwise using the stock Z-bar and linkage rods, original top loader, bellhousing and shifter.  The engine will be dyno'd next month and expecting numbers knocking on 500 in both HP and torque, so I'm guessing a stock clutch and pressure plate might not be enough?
This is my first FE motor, but I've had good luck running Centerforce diaphragm clutches behind my small blocks.
Thoughts?