SAAC Forum

Thanks for the offer, but I think the car was already sold to a newer member here.

I considered buying it but have too many irons in the fire.
Other than a perhaps in a car museum, this had to be the nicest interior/floor of a 50 year old car I'd ever seen.
Ahhhh, the benefits of living (or being store) in California...

If I was set-up to flip cars, it would have been a no-brainer.

Good luck to whoever lands this car, one of the earliest 69 GT500s, in their collection.

Before and after... not as pretty from the inside.

I bought a 70 Boss 302 carb with the same holes and was going to try the Muggy Weld method.

Luckily, before I did, I ran across a guy on EBay that did a decent job of repairing the holes and refinishing the rest of it. No, it wasn't a show quality finish and there were a few minor things I nit-pic'd but, for $250 or so, I was pleasantly surprised...

I think he filled the holes with some kind of 2-part epoxy before the replating...which obviously doesn't match in that area...but I think it's far better than before. Attached is a pic before plating.

Anyway, he said he worked for Pony Carbs in NY before they moved to NM.
He goes by 'carbontooters1' for his EBay ID.

Phil

Danaaaannng, that's a fabulous rim.

Are the Shelby Magstars stamped S7MS...?

Rivets look original. If they are flush inside and rims hold air, they probably are.

The "B6 2x" are the date code, I believe. Not sure exactly how to interpret but likely Feb of 66.
The 1st set I had used 3 rivets/spoke and were plainly dated 1966 but these required trim rings and were more like Marauder rims...so maybe a slightly different production process.


I'm no expert but have owned 3 sets, all 15x6...so obviously not OEM 67 Shelby.
I sold 2 sets over time & RE-rimmed to 7"/kept the 3rd set.

Nobody here or in the US seemed very interested as they weren't 'real' (& repos) but the guy in France (Ebay) was extremely happy to buy mine (only had 3 of) them for his 68 Mustang resto. Imagine how hard it is to find em in Europe. I'm SURE he'd buy your spare.

If the chrome condition is excellent, they'll sell. The problem is, restoring them puts the price out of reach when Paradise & China make alternatives. If these were on a Carroll Shelby or a Larry Shinoda prototype or personal vehicle, that'd be a different story....

Good luck. If I had a 67/8 Shelby, I'd have em on my car as drivers...

Alan,

+1 for David Kee T/L... He makes/sells a part that adapts a 65/66 handle to a std Hurst box. He also make one for the 69. Not sure about the 67/68 but only bcz I didn't ask. It only has to do with correct angle and bolt spacing so the could be the same.

Seems like they were about $40. Bolt on, no welding, correct angle and look (reverse lockout doesn't work)

I was goin the same route as Kieth and his sounds very nice as a welded unit..

Phil

Guys,

I'm looking  for a later (March, Apriil, May) C8FE block for my 69 Boss 302 restoration.

I've got cash or I can trade +$ for an earlier C8FE (8L2?) block/caps that's +.040".

LMK what you've got.


Thanks,

Phil

Thx for the input.

Bill, I don't see the relevance of the 3rd car down. It is a similar car and looks like a great buy. Were you just showing what a similar restored car sells for?

This is a VERY early 69 (#0013) so there are a few anomalies. I guess the shiifter is 1 of them. My very 1st room-mate in 79 had a 69 GT350 and I remember the woodgrain AT handle. I thought THIS car might be wrong but now I know otherwise. Thx for the great story, 480083.

Another is the Shelby plate riveted to the driver side 'B' pillar vs normally on the D-side door edge near the warranty data plate... Pic attached.

The current seller told me he just bought it from the son of the original owner, Stout...so at least that part of the story checks...

No extra charge for the speakers or the traction bars... Lol.

Phil

Guys,

I have a couple Boss302s but have never owned a Shelby. I have been in/out of the club for 30 years and was always partial to the early cars.

But I ran across this early 69 Black Jade GT500 w/ AT at a 'reasonable' price and need to know what you might know about it. My 97 Registry leaves out the last 20+years of history.

The good: beautiful floors, body, excellent white interior, orig black/red carpetr, orig C6, 3.50 T-lock
The bad: no 428 engine, partial stripping begun in front of the original paint.

There:console/gauges, center exhaust, orig rims, nice teak woodgrain, build sheet, Marti, Shelby docs

Any reports of stolen, restored, re-body, etc...?
What would a full, correct 428 CJ engine run me?  (Ineed the unvarnished truth...)

Let's says the body is perfect and I'll need a complete 428 engine; car to pan & fan to flexplate.

What would be a good price for such a project.?

Phil

Price lowered to $1100 on Ebay. 

$1000 to anyone from this site...

Thx,

Phil

original pics before re-core and repair to bottom tank...

It doesn't look like this now.

I'm adding the '75 MPC as documentation of this Eng # crossing to the C8ZZ-8005-C part#...

Guys,

I listed an OEM 24" radiator on Ebay. I cant find it in any of the books (68, 69, 70 service manuals or 75 MPC) so not sure what that means.
Maybe production line? I think it's correct for a 1969 BOSS 429 or a 428 CJ so a GT500 could be its rightful resting place.

It's listed for $1200 but anyone here can have it for $100 less...+ free shipping/insurance.

Tell me if this item is improperly described or it's a crazy price. It's ready to go unless you want to do some detail work on it.
The bottom tank was bent when I bought it so it was straightened when it was restored at the Radiator shop w/ 12 or 13 fins/inch core.
I did not alter anything on the bottom tank. I can supply 2 pics taken before I did any work on it.

I just listed it on the Boss site.

I tried to past the link below:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/C9ZE-AE1-Ford-Mustang-24-radiator-Dated-8MA/123440052282?hash=item1cbd99b83a:g:Bl8AAOSwFYZby2hG:rk:1:pf:0

Phil

Lots of good feedback from guys that have been there, done that...just what I was looking for.

I think I'll save this upgrade for my 69 as its got the separate Prop valve. I can slave in an adjustable unit or a pricey '65/66 K-H unit..!!!

Attached is a snip-it from the '75 Ford MPC showing the 5 different "Pressure Control Valves" that Ford cataloged...

65/66; Mustang, Shelby, T-bird, Galaxie (66)
67/69; Mustang, Fairlane/Torino, Falcon, Galaxie, T-bird

Thanks guys!!!

Phil

Phred/Doug, I doubt my '70 will ever see competitive track time, but I do love those parade laps. I bought it from the original owner and want to keep it close to period correct. I also want my parking brakes to work.
Now my 69 Boss will be more of a resto-mod so discs all around will likely be one of the primary upgrades. I DO want it to look cool and I WILL test it enough to know how the bias operates in extreme conditions.... I just want it to be close to 'as-designed' after the Shelby upgrade.

Bob, Good info on the details. The 69 with discs uses that cylindrical prop valve but the 70s eliminated that, somehow... So the rear wheel cylinders WERE upgraded to boost rear brake bias...to what size?
The '75 MPC say originals were 29/32...same as the 70 B2. 

The MPC also lists a different prop valve for 65/66 Mustang w/disks vs 65/66 Shelbys. C5ZZ vs C5ZX. Very cool. I did not know that. So they are both adjustable and Mustangs had a factory setting preset/pre-adjusted...but Shelby had his crew do their own adjustments initially then Ford made a special part (and C5ZX part #) that was pre-adjusted (painted black) to accommodate the bigger drums (and quality control)...?