News:

SAAC Member Badges are NOW available. Make your request through saac.memberlodge.com to validate membership.

Main Menu

how important is the date code in this case?

Started by hurlbird, May 02, 2020, 12:54:18 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

hurlbird

I saw a crack in my manifold. I removed it today for repair and it is split in half. The engine is NOT original but the manifolds are and in very rust free legible shape. Finding another in nice shape with correct date code 8C18 will be very difficult. So do I use any date code or from an originality perspective or do I seek another or even attempt to repair the one I have?

Thoughts? Thanks

J_Speegle

If I recall correctly your building/working on a 68 but don't recall if its a 350, 500 or KR If the choice is between a repaired/damaged manifold and one in better condition on a replacement engine I would choose replacing them with others possibly in even better (less pitting for example) ones with dates close to the same.  At the same time I would keep what you believe are the originals

Just one opinion - others may and likely do have different ones :) 
Jeff Speegle- Mustang & Shelby detail collector, ConcoursMustang.com mentor :) and Judge

hurlbird

believe it or not both are beautiful except for that split!!!  I agree with you to try to get something close in date codes but I've been looking for ever... I think we are agreeing a wrong date that looks great is better than an original date with a huge weld? its a 350 conv 4  speed.

thanks again for your input into my project :)

Greg

It is repairable with an experienced welder and can be made to be undetectable.  It is going to cost $$ but it is doable.  I have welded cast iron parts with great success and there are shops that do this. 
Shelby's and Fords from Day 1

roddster

  Not yet mentioned:  You'll be looking for a date code within a month, two at the most of what you now have.

Doug C

Quote from: Greg on May 02, 2020, 10:13:25 PM
It is repairable with an experienced welder and can be made to be undetectable.  It is going to cost $$ but it is doable.  I have welded cast iron parts with great success and there are shops that do this.
.

A most likely the cost to repair might be less than buying a used.  You know what you have and as it was stated above the fix can be 'undetectable'.

Good luck

hurlbird

really... thought a giant snot of weld would be needed. What type of welding is required and does someone knows such a person? I would appreciate it. Thanks.

Bob Gaines

Quote from: hurlbird on May 02, 2020, 12:54:18 PM
I saw a crack in my manifold. I removed it today for repair and it is split in half. The engine is NOT original but the manifolds are and in very rust free legible shape. Finding another in nice shape with correct date code 8C18 will be very difficult. So do I use any date code or from an originality perspective or do I seek another or even attempt to repair the one I have?

Thoughts? Thanks
My thoughts are that they will be costly to repair and make look like they were not repaired compared to searching for other nice used one that may have a different date code. They are not rare relatively speaking. I am not sure why the concern if the entire engine is out of sync that the date codes on the one exhaust manifold are of any consequence. If every other aspect about the appearance of the items on your completed engine are correct then maybe that need for addressing the date on one exhaust manifold would be relevant. FYI date codes are only typically relevant in the Premier class of concours where besides date codes appropriate for the build of your car no reproduction parts of any kind allowed ether. Just some thoughts to try and put things in perspective. I wish you luck with what ever you decide.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

KR Convertible

Which side are you looking for?  I have a bunch, but mostly earlier.  A post in the wanted section with the casting number, date range and side might get some responses.

Greg

Quote from: hurlbird on May 03, 2020, 04:46:04 PM
really... thought a giant snot of weld would be needed. What type of welding is required and does someone knows such a person? I would appreciate it. Thanks.

A good welding professional wouldn't produce a giant snot of weld.  Google is your friend on this and you could also contact muggyweld.com as they produce special welding rods which I have used to weld cast iron.  As with most things, the preparation of the cast iron is most critical, drilling the ends of any crack and opening it up, the temperature has to be brought up to at 50 deg C before welding, and then sand placed over it to allow it to cool slowly. 
Shelby's and Fords from Day 1

hurlbird

thanks all and Bob for the perspecitive think ill move past the repair. I will have the car look absolutely correct but do not aspire for lofty judging im just an over the top stickler who loves to drive the cars. I did post in the wanted section and i need a drivers side KR. -John

casting on broken is 8C18

Bob Gaines

Quote from: hurlbird on May 04, 2020, 11:00:38 AM
thanks all and Bob for the perspecitive think ill move past the repair. I will have the car look absolutely correct but do not aspire for lofty judging im just an over the top stickler who loves to drive the cars. I did post in the wanted section and i need a drivers side KR. -John

casting on broken is 8C18
We will be here to give helpful information so that you can make a informed decision that makes the most sense for your situation.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

hurlbird

you and others have been awesome, I greatly appreciate it. Im really a Pontiac guy that fell into this world. Im enjoying all of you and the car and look forward to attending an event with others who are into them.

gt350hr

  Get a replacement for your "Mustang" . That will keep the seller off of the "gold plated" Shelby manifold price. Like a $2 wing nut for $24
Celebrating 46 years of drag racing 6S477 and no end in sight.