Author Topic: Hoisting engine  (Read 5128 times)

mark p

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #15 on: March 06, 2021, 09:06:24 AM »
That looks mighty substantial!
Corey

^^^ Yes indeed  8) Nice work.

Corey, we recently did my 302 with that same method, no issues (Iron intake out, aluminum in) The fabricated plate was supplied by a buddy - but it may have been USA made, from back before everything was sourced from the Pacific Rim  ???
Good luck.
"I don't know what the world may need, but a V8 engine's a good start for me" (from Teen Angst by the band "Cracker")

66 Tiger / 65 Thunderbird

427heaven

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #16 on: March 06, 2021, 09:11:28 AM »
This is another situation when you ask 100 guys how to do something you will 100 different ways to do it. The plate you showed is the plate all race shops, repair shops use for pulling and installing engines. It has been used 100s of thousands of times with out problems. There was a test many years ago what the pull out strength of a stud in an aluminum manifold I believe it was around 500 pounds each stud. We do some quick 3rd grade math 500x 4= 2000 lbs that's the safety number. Your small block is about 500 lbs so well within safe limits of using the plate. The key here for a safe install looking at the plate is the large holes and slots for various manifolds, make sure  for safety you use some large flat washers to insure proper weight distribution on each stud not allowing the weight to be concentrated on a little nut. You can do it! Good Luck!

gt350bp

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #17 on: March 06, 2021, 09:45:39 AM »
For me, the front of the car with the engine removed was high enough. By getting the back end way up in the air, the engine will slip in easier and need less boom, therefore less bending. Slide the Hooker Header in through the radiator opening with engine about 3-4" off the motor mounts. Once the headers were on, I bolted the engine block mounts into place and dropped the engine in place. I did trim the drivers side shock tower reinforcing about 1/8" when I prepared the engine compartment for paint. Just enough clearance to prevent front header bolt interference. 
« Last Edit: March 06, 2021, 09:51:19 AM by gt350bp »

shelbydoug

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #18 on: March 06, 2021, 09:48:56 AM »
I haven't seen anyone do an FE with the accessories installed? That's how the factory did it.
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

1109RWHP

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #19 on: March 06, 2021, 07:07:56 PM »
This how it is done now.




427heaven

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #20 on: March 06, 2021, 07:18:24 PM »
Thanks for the pics I left out a word on how it is done. That key word is VINTAGE engines, to me that new stuff looks like FRANKENSTEINS wife not interested in the least. I will leave that new stuff for the younger crowd we can appreciate all that power, just not that weird to my eyes new stuff!.

gt350shelb

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #21 on: March 07, 2021, 08:16:03 AM »
I haven't seen anyone do an FE with the accessories installed? That's how the factory did it.
   

If you use factory lifting brackets you can do engine trans and accessory's in about 5 mins
Some where some one is driving their collector car for the last time but they don't know it . Drive your car every time like it could be the last memory of it .

shelbydoug

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #22 on: March 07, 2021, 10:03:35 AM »
I haven't seen anyone do an FE with the accessories installed? That's how the factory did it.
   

If you use factory lifting brackets you can do engine trans and accessory's in about 5 mins

 I have the factory brackets. Can the fan stay on during installation? Looks like the angle of the drive train is about 70 degrees? That means either I need a pit under the car or the car needs to be jacked up of the ground about 3 feet?

All that oil in the pan is going to wind up in the lifter gallery?
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

Corey Bowcutt

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #23 on: March 07, 2021, 10:06:51 AM »
Engine is out.  I did not anticipate having to remove all of the front fiberglass but it was necessary in order to get the lift in far enough.  Other than that it all went very smooth.

mark p

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #24 on: March 07, 2021, 10:12:02 AM »
Nice job.
Good luck with the diagnosing and getting it back together/running great/hitting the road (once the salt is all gone)
"I don't know what the world may need, but a V8 engine's a good start for me" (from Teen Angst by the band "Cracker")

66 Tiger / 65 Thunderbird

Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #25 on: March 07, 2021, 03:53:42 PM »
Engine is out.  I did not anticipate having to remove all of the front fiberglass but it was necessary in order to get the lift in far enough.  Other than that it all went very smooth.

Looks good
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Owned since 1971, now driven over 245,000 miles, makes me smile every time I drive it and it makes me feel 21 again.😎

98SVT - was 06GT

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Re: Hoisting engine
« Reply #26 on: March 22, 2021, 12:02:43 PM »
Too many gotta have doo dads for car work today. I have only ever used a length of chain to yank and install engines. Run a bolt through the link and screw it into an exhaust bolt hole at the back on one side and the front on the other. If you are pulling just the engine put the hook in the center. Engine and trans put the hook further back.
Buy youself a Harbor Freight foldable engine hoist - They are about $160 so you'll really only be into it $60 by the time you rent one twice for $50. Or you can go cheap like I did when Harbor Freight wasn't around yet - 2 4x4s and an 8' 4x8. Nailed the 4x4s from the garage floor to the sides of a couple joists then span it with the 4x8. Wrap a chain around it and get a good $30 ratchet cable hoist (or chain fall) and you're done. I haven't used this setup in 25 years but it's still in the garage and I'm going to press it back into service to pull the engine from our 4x4 Excursion since the regular hoist won't reach high enough.
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