68 fastback / Shelby rear quarter panels

[V8Dave]

Hello everyone.
I am looking for some help and information for a elderly friend who is working on a 68 fastback. I understand it's not a Shelby however I have great respect for the knowledge and people on this forum and as this also applies to people with 68 Shelbys I thought I would post this question here and see what solutions maybe available.
My friend has purchased complete left and right rear quarter panels for a 68 fastback and is getting ready to remove the lead out the roof and replace the quarter panels on his fastback however looking the quarter panels over I noticed that the 5 pins( they look like the head on nails you hammer in wood) that the rear window molding clips bite on to are missing?
So if he installs these panels he will be missing the pin heads for the rear molding clips to bite/ attach to. I believe if I am correct 65 mustangs use a Phillips screw that gets screwed in to the panel and the the window clips bite on them from what I see listed for sale on mustang parts vendor sites if I'm correct?
So my question is anyone with a 68 Shelby that has replaced a full rear quarter panel on there vehicle what have you done as regards the pins missing for the rear window molding clips? Is there another solution or a place to buy these pins or something similar to install so that they work and look like factory.
Or did my friend get a bad quarter panel?
Anyone who can help with any knowledge or suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thank you all for your time and I hope this is posted in the right section.
Stay safe everyone.
Have a nice day
Dave

[KR500]

Dave
They make a special rivet and rivet gun nose piece to use a rivet to replace the factory stud. Although it doesn't look exactly like the factory stud it works just as well and can't be seen once the molding is installed.
Rodney

[davez]

They are not suppose to be screwed in. There are t shaped bronze stud pins that are welded with a special stud gun. The moulding clip then is pushed down and spring loaded on the stud. I have one of the tools used that welds the stud to the window channel.. Plugs into a 220 dryer type circuit. The problem with screws is there is now an area moisture can get into. You have to attach the clip before installing the glass and you can't install a new clip without completely removing the glass. It's done this way because someone didn't have the tools / knowledge, or rushed the repair and left it to the glass guy to deal with. It also has to be done before the paintwork. I'll post pictures later of the tool necessary to do it properly.
dz

[V8Dave]

Hello Rodney and davez.
Thank you both for the help and replys. Could either of you post a link or photo to the equipment /tools as well as the brass rivets as i would like to look at them and maybe purchase them.
I said to my friend i find it strange that his new 68 full rear fastback quarters dont already have them on/ installed. I know when you replace a upper and lower cowl panel the upper cowel panel has the studs already installed unless its the difference between different aftermarket brand rear quarters?. Has anyone else had this problem when they have replaced a full rear quarter on a 68 shelby/fastback with the new reproduction panels they have brought? Maybe even someone with a 67 mustang/shelby as i know with respect to the quarter trim area and rear marker lights the panels are nearly the same? Just find it strange however i am always happy to learn.
Thank you all for your help and replys.
Have a nice day
Dave

[hertz1966]

The studs I think are called "Trim Rivets". The ones I have are made by Spitznagel.  They also make the stud gun to apply the rivet with a special tip.  This is kinda of an expensive set up for just 5 rivets.  The gun alone is around $300.  Eastwood may have a cheaper solution.  It is possible just to drill a hole and use a sheet metal screw.  I don't like this because water can seep into the threads, might be able to seal with silicon??  This is also not a factory repair.  Maybe somebody has stud gun locally that can be borrowed.

Tim

[KR500]

Hello Rodney and davez.
Thank you both for the help and replys. Could either of you post a link or photo to the equipment /tools as well as the brass rivets as i would like to look at them and maybe purchase them.
I said to my friend i find it strange that his new 68 full rear fastback quarters dont already have them on/ installed. I know when you replace a upper and lower cowl panel the upper cowel panel has the studs already installed unless its the difference between different aftermarket brand rear quarters?. Has anyone else had this problem when they have replaced a full rear quarter on a 68 shelby/fastback with the new reproduction panels they have brought? Maybe even someone with a 67 mustang/shelby as i know with respect to the quarter trim area and rear marker lights the panels are nearly the same? Just find it strange however i am always happy to learn.
Thank you all for your help and replys.
Have a nice day
Dave

Dave
PM sent

[davez]

Here's the piece of equipment I have.  220v think I spent close to 3k 10 years ago for a used one from a Mercedes body tech. I use this for the studs, as well as resistance welds, shrinking etc. It has a number of attachments.  Years ago I tried one of the Spitznagel stud guns. The problem with them is they don't get the stud close enough to the base of the channel . The yellow one previously posted has the outer ring cut away on both sides. That may allow the stud to get lower in the channel. If the stud is not within 1/8 of the corner of the channel the moulding clip sits too high and doesn't allow the stainless moulding to attach flush with the outer body. Also, on the stud gun shown, the outer ring is the GROUND contact.  That outer ring is what gets in the way of locating the stud correctly. On mine the ground is attached to the body elsewhere with a different cable. My suggestion would be find an amenable shop and pay them  to properly attach them.
If you were in VA I'd be happy to help out.
dz