Author Topic: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem  (Read 2491 times)

RSOHC

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Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« on: September 03, 2021, 06:30:44 PM »
When I crank the engine when the battery voltage is low, the starter engages with the fly wheel, does not disengage and the engine does not start.  When I am trying to start the engine I can turn the ignition key to the aux position and run position and the starter continues to crank the engine.  I need to disconnect the battery to disengage the starter.  The distributor has a Petronix conversion.  The starter is of original style.  Will this problem go away with a fully charged battery or does something need to be replaced?
« Last Edit: September 03, 2021, 06:32:36 PM by RSOHC »

Tired Sheep

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Re: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2021, 07:07:24 PM »
Replace the starter solenoid

Rbwiii

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Re: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2021, 07:47:08 PM »
And make sure it is grounded Very Well...

Poor Ron

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Re: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2021, 07:57:08 PM »
Ford solenoids need voltage to engage & to disengage.
Low voltage is probably the problem.

Rbwiii

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Re: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2021, 09:51:22 PM »
And make sure it is grounded very well....

68stangcjfb

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Re: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2021, 05:37:47 AM »
Is it a reproduction? I've seen at least 3 reproduction starter solenoids fail the exact same way. One in my own car and two others. Yet the original one in my 68 Torino is still working perfectly. If you can find an original one, get it restored. It will probably work a lot better than the reproduction one. I assume the reproductions are Chinese garbage.
« Last Edit: September 04, 2021, 05:39:41 AM by 68stangcjfb »
68 1/2 CJ Mustang GT FB auto 3.91s 68 1/2 CJ Torino GT FB 3.91s 60 Thunderbird 64 Falcon Sprint conv. 4Spd 65 Falcon Sedan Delivery 67 Fairlane 500 SW 428 4Spd, 68 Torino 4dr 95 Thunderbird SC. 89 F250 Supercab 2wd, 98 Mustang conv. 99 Jeep Cherokee 2002 Thunderbird. 96 Harley FLSTN Heritage Special

Bill Collins

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Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2021, 11:05:27 AM »
A quick test to determine if the problem is in the solenoid is the next time this happens, whack the solenoid hard with the handle end of a large screwdriver. If it disengages the starter, you have located the source of the trouble.
Enthusiast since 1965, SAAC charter member since 1975 and Regional Rep since 1985, GT350 Owner since 1971, 289 Cobra owner 1979-2016, Ford GT owner 2006 - 2017

RSOHC

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Re: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2021, 08:33:03 PM »
who is the manufacted the original solenoid and what is the part number?

Bob Gaines

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Re: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2021, 10:31:56 PM »
who is the manufacted the original solenoid and what is the part number?
Your 68 will have a Autolite with a C7 engineering number stamped into the top of the solenoid .
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

TedS

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Re: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #9 on: September 05, 2021, 08:58:52 AM »
A quick test to determine if the problem is in the solenoid is the next time this happens, whack the solenoid hard with the handle end of a large screwdriver. If it disengages the starter, you have located the source of the trouble.

From the movie "The Longest Day"..
Capt. Colin Maud: [walking up to a stalled vehicle] My old grandmother used to say anything mechanical, give it a good bash.

Bob Gaines

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Re: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #10 on: September 05, 2021, 02:41:05 PM »
A quick test to determine if the problem is in the solenoid is the next time this happens, whack the solenoid hard with the handle end of a large screwdriver. If it disengages the starter, you have located the source of the trouble.
For those not familiar with why Bill sometimes assaults a defenseless solenoid with a large screw driver handle is because the internal contact points get misaligned or were never aligned properly to begin with. This causes a less then full contact of the points. With all the current traveling through the points a smaller contact patch can cause resistance (like what happens on a electric stove burner). They can heat up to the point of contact surface slightly melting and welding them together causing the stuck situation . The sharp blow can sometimes knock the spring loaded points back apart. The blow doesn't repair   The problem is typically only corrected until the next time. Always be careful when adding or taking off cables on the solenoid. You need to have a wrench on the inside nut besides the one you are tightening over the cable so as not to allow the post to twist. Those thread posts directly effect the alignment of the contact points inside. A slight twist of the thick thread post is all it takes to misalign the contact points. 
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

RSOHC

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Re: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #11 on: September 09, 2021, 06:37:49 PM »
The part number for the starter solenoid is C7AF-11450-A1 Autolite
« Last Edit: September 09, 2021, 06:40:19 PM by RSOHC »

Bigblock

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Re: Starter/Relay/Ignition Switch Problem
« Reply #12 on: September 13, 2021, 12:48:09 PM »
My $.02. I never had this problem until converting my 67 and 68 390 cars over to Pertronix II. And it would happen during prolonged cranking like heat soak. I replaced one solenoid with a C7 from Green sales and continued to have the issue. A call to Pertronix said to add a diode in the wire to the 'I' connection on the solenoid. Their comment was the Pertronix connection to +12 v can be feedback to the solenoid and keep it engaged. Put the diode in the 67 and problem never re-accured. But since after heat problem Pertronix coils I've gone back to the points and ol yellow top.