1965 Cragar wheels Original vs repro?

[SFM5S159]

Hey all,

Considering a purchase of an original set of '65 Cragar wheels vs. a repro set. 
The original wheels will need to be restored, replated at the least, maybe re-rimmed. 
Once a set of original wheels is restored, are they indistinguishable from a new set?

If the repro's are made with original tooling, are they not going to be identical to a restored set?  I'm assuming a restored set has the rims removed, plated and then welded back on...

To me a part is only original once, when its "restored" it isn't truly original.  Maybe it's a matter of semantics, but that's my point of view.

Thanks.

Mike C 

[Bob Gaines]

Hey all,

Considering a purchase of an original set of '65 Cragar wheels vs. a repro set. 
The original wheels will need to be restored, replated at the least, maybe re-rimmed. 
Once a set of original wheels is restored, are they indistinguishable from a new set?

If the repro's are made with original tooling, are they not going to be identical to a restored set?  I'm assuming a restored set has the rims removed, plated and then welded back on...

To me a part is only original once, when its "restored" it isn't truly original.  Maybe it's a matter of semantics, but that's my point of view.

Thanks.

Mike C

It depends on who restores the wheels. Craig Conley for instance puts modern DOT approve rims with the required safety bead .I can understand why.  He has done it that way for decades for liability reasons. The DOT rim is slightly different in shape. The required DOT stamping is on the back side of the rim . The genuine rim has different wording on no DOT approval marking. The repro centers are identical however. In that scenario the restored original wheel looks the same as the repro wheel. If you want it to look identical you will have to find someone that will cut the wheel apart and rechrome the original rims. 

[Shelby_r_b]

The main visual differences between an original, and original restored, and a repro (from Craig) are as follows:

1. This picture shows an unrestored original Cragar (the back side). Note two things: A) there is very little to no visible weld (circled in red). B) The open slots on ether side of the spoke / weld

2. This picture shows a restored original wheel. Note the following: A) the weld / safety bead is visible. B) the open slots on either side of the spoke near the weld (circled in red). The open slots are only found on original Cragars, regardless of being or not being restored.

3. Repro Cragar (from Craig). Note the following: A) the weld / safety bead is visible. B) the slots are filled on either side of the spokes.

I hope this helps!

[6s1640]

Way back in the early days of the Shelby Club, there were article(s) how to fix those crusty old Cragars.  Many of these wheels lost their lust early on and nobody was restoring them back in the day.  The trick was to install "Trim Rings".  I'm uncertain which make and model trim ring was recommended, but they did dress up the wheel considerable.  Does any one remember the trim ring make and model?  Was the news letter the "Shelby Owners Association" or the "Marque"?

While visiting John Atzbach's collection, now several years ago, he actually had a 65 GT350 in his collection that had the trim rings.  The trim rings fit so well, nobody had noticed them until I pointed it out.  I remember reading about the trick and there it was in fact on a car.  It was not just a story.

I'm not suggesting you do the same, but sharing some history on these wheels.  Somewhere I have a picture of the car.  Maybe someone here knows which SAI VIN it was.

Best of luck.

Cory

[propayne]

Holy crap Cory - that is brilliant!!

I wonder if that would work on my slightly crusty set of XR7-G Raders?

Thanks for posting that tip!

- Phillip

[tesgt350]

The main visual differences between an original, and original restored, and a repro (from Craig) are as follows:

1. This picture shows an unrestored original Cragar (the back side). Note two things: A) there is very little to no visible weld (circled in red). B) The open slots on ether side of the spoke / weld

2. This picture shows a restored original wheel. Note the following: A) the weld / safety bead is visible. B) the open slots on either side of the spoke near the weld (circled in red). The open slots are only found on original Cragars, regardless of being or not being restored.

3. Repro Cragar (from Craig). Note the following: A) the weld / safety bead is visible. B) the slots are filled on either side of the spokes.

I hope this helps!

WOW, for Safety reasons, I would rather have Wheels 2 or 3 on my Car plus, it looks like they would be Safer for Track Use as well.