Steering box lube

[6S1568]

OK, I got it. Thanks Z and Bob for your insight into this important issue. It's so nice to have you guys out there on the Forum to provide direction to those of us who don't have your kind of experience. I appreciate it! Denny

[acman63]

we use a high quality moly grease in our rebuilds we do

[NC TRACKRAT]

we use a high quality moly grease in our rebuilds we do

...which causes me to think about the molybdenum disulfide grease used in Porsche, VW and Audi CV joints, a high temperature, high pressure ball bearing environment.

[Helmantel]

A rebuilt box ,tight inner and outer tie rods, and a proper idler arm with bushings intact make all of the difference in the world. Don't waste your money or even consider one of those Flaming River Rack and pinion setups until you have experienced what a proper restored box and fresh front steering components feels like. 

I agree. I made an effort rebuilding mine, but didn't get it right, because the pitman arm and worm gear were too worn. I then rebuilt another one with NOS and good used components, adjusted it to the correct specs with a torque wrench and filled it with moly grease (I'll have a look into the #1 and #2 spec as mentioned above, not sure what I used). Together with a proper alignment and good Pirelli tires, steering is now a joy. Not like a modern car, but just good.

[texas swede]

Tried to post a picture of the steering grease tube but get a fault response.
The size of the picture is 49,6 kbit
Texas Swede

[CharlesTurner]

we use a high quality moly grease in our rebuilds we do

+1, that's what I use.

On filling the box, I unscrew the vent cap and screw in a reducer with a grease fitting.  Use a regular grease gun to pump in grease.  Watch the lower seal to make sure to not overfill.

[Helmantel]

On the long shaft boxes, the input shaft is not sealed, which means that excess grease will end up in the steering column tube. In other words, there's no risk of blowing out the lower seal.