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rear leaf springs

Started by EdwardGT350, August 22, 2019, 11:51:32 PM

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EdwardGT350

1966 gt350 rear leaf springs getting weak. rearc or replace them?
should all bushings be replaced in the shackles also?
thanks
1966 GT350 6s1761

Bob Gaines

Quote from: EdwardGT350 on August 22, 2019, 11:51:32 PM
1966 gt350 rear leaf springs getting weak. rearc or replace them?
should all bushings be replaced in the shackles also?
thanks
You can do ether .I don't think re arched springs will last long term which may or may not be a issue. Also you can get a replacement set of rear leafs from Virginia Mustang including new front eye pressed in bushing for about the same price as re arching a set If you replace them be sure to keep the bottom plate with the C4-S engineering number . You can bolt it on the new set. Also the pins for a S marked leave springs have a extra tall locating pin so re use the long originals or if damaged they are reproduced. The tall pin is needed for the 9 inch rear end housing . The regular Mustang pin is too short and will not hold the rear end hosing in place. Inspect the shackle bushings and unless cracked or otherwise compromised re use them.   
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

2112

Not sure where you are located, but I have a new, never installed set of Virginia Mustang rear leaf springs that I won't be using.

$99 plus shipping from western Washington.

EdwardGT350

is changing out the springs a DIY project? i have a 4 post lift.
1966 GT350 6s1761

2112

Quote from: EdwardGT350 on August 23, 2019, 01:16:54 AM
is changing out the springs a DIY project? i have a 4 post lift.

One of the easier projects IMO.

1967 eight barrel

Yes, one of the easier ones. Be sure to get the rear shackle bushings and replace them while you're at it You should be able to get it done in a couple hours with a lift. It also wouldn't hurt to contact AMK and replace the bolts and U  bolts while you're at it.

                                                                                  -Keith

EdwardGT350

anyone have personal experience with JR or Eaton springs and the resulting ride height? is the correct stance "level" or "low in back/nose up"?
1966 GT350 6s1761

NC TRACKRAT

In my instance, using the Eaton springs will initially result in a higher rear.  It just takes time for them to settle in.  Driving the car is the best "medicine".  Our esteemed Mr. Speegle wrote an excellent article in the October 1995 issue of Mustang Times wherein he gave the following information from an April 1966 Ford Bulletin for a HiPo Mustang with 6.95x14 tires:
Minimum: 24-7/64"  Normal: 24-55/64"  Maximum: 25-55/64".  If you'd like, send me a PM and I'll e-mail a copy of the article to you.
5S071, 6S1467

Bob Gaines

The Easton springs (a different CO and not to be confused with the company that supplied Ford by the same name) are diped in a vat of black paint which is thick over all of the exterior springs and straps. It is extremely time consuming and aggravating job to get off. That is if you are trying to make them look like they came from the factory.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

EdwardGT350

#9
I thought that the original company, Eaton Spring Co Detroit, was still in business?
1966 GT350 6s1761

EdwardGT350

what is the original spring rate, 85# or 110#?
1966 GT350 6s1761

Bob Gaines

Quote from: EdwardGT350 on August 23, 2019, 09:23:10 PM
I thought that the original company, Eaton Spring Co Detroit, was still in business?
Since you asked -  I mentioned in my previous post that it is a different Company not to be confused with the company that supplied springs to Ford back in the day by the same name. That Eaton Company you posted a picture of is still in business and is not the OEM to Ford.  I only mention it because they like to let people think that they are the OEM (original equipment Manufacture)  for what ever reason.They do work off of blueprints they got from Ford but that is a far cry from being the OEM supplier. Some years ago after looking up the genuine OEM in the Wards Automotive Directory Yearbook for 1965-70 years I asked some pointed questions in several different ways to pin them down. The phone person finally admitted that they were not the same company. I have never liked their lack of transparency in that regard. Their product on the other hand is good a side from the thick black paint they cover everything in of course. The original Easton that supplied Ford springs is a huge Multi National billion dollar company that owns and controls production of many different companies and items. It has changed its name over the years . The one you are thinking of is minuscule by comparison.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

sg66

I went through this a few years ago, Eaton is not the same company as OEM. The Eaton ends don't have the same appearance as the originals. Do what Bob said and get a set from VA Mustangs which have the same ends if you want to keep the original look. 

OEM were 110# http://mustangcodex.blogspot.com/2011_06_01_archive.html?m=1

If you do it yourself, check that the front bolts aren't frozen in the metal sleeves in the bushings first. If one or both are frozen, a 4 1/2 inch Dewalt cutoff wheel is thin enough to fit between the bushing and bracket. You would also likely need to rotate the bolt 180 degrees to make a complete cut. Cut the outboard first and hack out whatever rubber you can before going in with the wheel...hopefully your lucky enough to avoid all this.

2112

For reference, here are the VCM springs

EdwardGT350

any number stampings on the small leaf?
1966 GT350 6s1761